View Full Version : Yet another sub install..this one hurts

06-10-2014, 04:31 PM
Wife giving me grief over it as I've only had it for two weeks and already spent money on the window tint...

Anyhow, it's better to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission so here are the pics...I think it may be too much, it's slamming.

I don't mind missing the donut or jack and really appreciate being able to keep the full cargo space.

06-10-2014, 04:43 PM
Nice and clean installation!

06-10-2014, 04:54 PM
Thanks! I actually bought wood and was going to make my own, but I'm getting too old to play around with running amps wires and stuff...lol Decided since it was only $75 install for the amp, and $225 for the box, I was ok. <$1k for the amp, speaker, and everything else.

06-10-2014, 05:15 PM
it's better to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission

lol, live by that motto in the military

Nice install as well.

06-10-2014, 05:20 PM
Very Nice and Clean and I don't do Audio LOL

06-10-2014, 05:31 PM
Very clean install.

06-12-2014, 08:06 PM
If you are in to upgrading you stereo, I would totally recommend this setup. For excessive bass run with the 12" like I did, but to add a nice bottom end the 10" would be sufficient. I cannot believe how nice this sounds with all types of music. Now my #1 is Iron Maiden and it makes Nico's drums hit hard, but switching to Metallica it's insane. Going over to country music is insane, rap is over the top (I listen to Sirius Backspin a lot and all that older 80s rap has an incredible sound). Simple rock music like Van Halen is awesome too. I don't have to keep adjusting the EQ at all.

Total cost was about $1k, but the woofer was $349. The rest of the prices are in above post. The 10" version of this sub is $299 here. I'm glad I went with the 12".

To improve the sound stage (higher and more forward), I asked about idea and was told they could take my A-pillars and make a pod to put a better tweeter there and not use the one in the door. I was thinking of upgrading to a nice quality pair of seperates, but next mod is the COBB AP, so I gotta wait until I get that before I go back to the stereo stuff.

07-19-2014, 04:26 PM
does the sub rattle that lid?

07-19-2014, 04:31 PM
Wife giving me grief over it as I've only had it for two weeks and already spent money on the window tint...

Anyhow, it's better to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission so here are the pics...I think it may be too much, it's slamming.

I don't mind missing the donut or jack and really appreciate being able to keep the full cargo space.
Where is this shop located?

07-19-2014, 05:52 PM
Where is this shop located?

Fayetteville, NC A bit of a hike from NY. They've done over a dozen of my cars over the years.

does the sub rattle that lid?

Not that I can tell...Everything is really tight still. I'm sure as things wear a bit more I'll start hearing rattles. My plate doesn't rattle as I have strips of SD on them.

07-20-2014, 12:51 PM
They are giving you great advice on A pillar tweeter location, especially if they fire them at each other and out of phase with the mids(reverse the pos and neg wire at the tweeter or the amp) at this will give you a much greater center stage, height, and the out of phase brings the actual arrival time closer to being back in phase since the speakers are so far apart. Spent your money on a good front stage and on proper sound deadening and forget the rear speakers or use something lower cost and just do not play them very loudly as music is supposed to come from in front, not the rear.

Make sure the tweeters are 2" above the highest point of the dash.

If using the stock HU you will want a processor to get ride of the crappy tune and really dial it in, killer deal right now is the PPI 88R, by far best bang for the buck I have ever seen, I picked up two of them on onlinecarstereo.com, search for a discount coupon as well.

Just so you know, I am retired from the business, sound deadening was my specialty but I dabbled in high end Vette audio systems and some other areas for fun. I have been a competitor, judge, beaten a prior world champion, coached many into becoming world champions (sound quality, not massive bass that is just a tone) and into car audio 46 years, know many of the best all time installers, etc.....this is just to let you know I have a pretty good background of experience at the highest level and just want to help you out:)

07-20-2014, 06:35 PM
RAAM (Rick) thanks for all the info. I'm tracking the info..Back in the 90s I worked as a rep for Harman Int'l and had an Infinity display vehicle that I did the install on. Stuck the equipment into an 89 Toyota MR2. With the processors and amps in the trunk, I made custom kick panels (and cut the inner metal well out) to fit a set of Kappa 4.0cs mid-range, 6.5" in the door and tweeter in the A-pillar. For Subs i had to fiberglass behind the seat with a front 3/4" panel and ran a Kappa 12 behind each seat. It was pretty sweet sounding. The next "project" I worked on was an 89 LX mustang that I had built and stereo was a single Eclipse CD, Audio Control 3.1, USD wave guides under the dash, 8" Memphis mid-bass in old school Q-forms door panels, and 4-12s. It was pretty intense, but the front sound stage was amazing all by itself. One of the cleanest installs that I did was in my cobra convertible tribute car. You can google that one as it was in MM&FF a few years ago (I think Jan 2009). http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mmfp-0902-2001-mustang-cobra/photo-gallery/

What funny in the cobra install they never mentioned all the wiring and sound deadening that I had to do to help it sound good. The engine was so loud and with solid motor mounts it shook and grunted a lot so it was key to make the car as dead as possible. I even had to do a lot of work to the tuner since when you smashed the throttle the CD player would skip! It took about a week of swapping out rubber grommets on the mounts for the double-din, but eventually had to build my own setup using the stock mount points.

Thinking back 25 years I've always had some sort of aftermarket stereo in everything that I've owned except the longest vehicle that we've ever owned. I picked up a 07 Durango when it was new many years ago and although we added a DVD info-tainment setup I never swapped speakers or added a sub. That's weird considering my track record..lol

I haven't checked out the PPI piece yet, but I'm fairly well versed with Audio Control pieces. I run quite a few of those over the years.

I don't like the placement of the stock tweeters at all so I don't know if I'll leave well enough alone or tinker...

Where has all the time gone. . .

07-20-2014, 07:57 PM
Man, I have an infinity basslink sitting in my XR4Ti that I no longer drive. This is making me want to do the install on the FiST.

07-21-2014, 08:26 AM
Quite a resume buddy, very impressed, job and installs!

I have only heard one system that had the dynamics of a horn and that is listed below but the cost was insane, retail was $20k, of course I did not pay retail, my cost was around $12-13k, just for the gear.

You were into the higher end before I was, not until 96 did I dabble there though I had nice sounding systems since the early 70s' and did my first install in 1968 in my mothers pristine 57 Bonneville.

I have used audio control, Zapco, ID, Arc Audio, Dynaudio, Morel, McIntosh and many other brands, ..this will be my first digital processor as I preferred analog before. ID horns a few times, dual 7" mids, single per side X69 ID is an amazing driver for horn installs, Eric is working on an even higher output design for all his new line, EricStevensAudio.

I have had $2500 HUs and my favorite all time for SQ and tuning was the Eclipse 8443 and 8053, I had a bunch of them I collected over the years as put them in everything I owned, could buy them dirt cheap used....

This was the biggest, baddest system I have ever done or will do, Rainbow References, ID DAC with 20 volt balanced out, 118db SN and Dynamic Range, custom modded processors, amps, custom built midbasses with 300 per driver, active mids and tweets with 200/100 watts so 900 per side up front, two of the first ID Max subs, custom assembled for me. Two months before this build I beat a prior world champion with an all Dynaudio, Zapco and McIntosh setup, outboard DAC again as well. He build a new truck in his big name shop and came out to get even but did not bring his pro football player customers as I rather embarrassed him in front of them the last time, I beat him again in my build in my back yard, parked the truck outside, running a business and full time Navy job.....he quite after that, he was a prick to me, why I did what I did;)


Harmon used some of my materials in some demo cars they built, I had a good chat with the head car audio engineer about the 07 Tundra LTD I had, and loved, all it needed was some real bass and an amp for the speakers, it had the best sound stage I have ever heard in a stock vehicle, amazing really, good enough to compete with even with stock drivers! They had a set and not big budget and spent a good deal of it on placement and tuning and the best speakers they could afford. It just had a tiny amp and sub so that is all it needed.

I am using D class amps for the first time, tested many in the past, did not like them, not even on subs. The Arc KS H class amps are very good for the money, power and sound and the just came out with their latest D class so switching to them for all three systems, truck, car, trailer. I am going to use the PPI 88R in the ST, had the Audison Bit 10, sold it last week, the 88R should do all I need, I hope:) I bought one for the truck but my buddy Jason said the Pioneer AVH 4000 NEX will not really need it, he has done a few installs with it and very impressed and he does know high end audio quite well so going to give it a try in the truck but have the 88R just in case. If the 88R does not do the job well enough in either app I will get two Bit 10's.

The trailer has a limited space for a BR player, amps, etc...so it has a Harmon Kardon BR receiver, I wanted to use my Oppo 83 SE, incredible sounding, and tube amp.....not a good match...to rough a ride, etc.....I have KEF line array speakers beside the 50" smart TV and an Arc Black Line 12 under the stairs with an Arc 1100.5 amp, gets it on really well!

In our travels we will demo all three rigs, truck, trailer and ST:)

As for deadening, the truck has 150 sq ft of mat, around 10 yards of Ensolite and a couple of sq yards of acoustic foam, 100 hours labor, like driving a limo now:)

ST, getting one of my effective but very low weight deadening jobs, I use aluminum channels bonded to door skins and rear qtr panels so much less mat is needed. Alumalite fillers for access holes, hatch holes, as it fits, if not then aluminum sheet metal covered with just enough mat to get them wehre needed. Acoustical foam where ever it fits including up under and inside the dash, under the seats, pillars, etc, and Ensolite on just about everything you cannot see as well. I should be able to keep the deadening weight to under 20 lbs and the system will be very light as well.

I have to go make some Vette parts, I still dabble a bit when asked, have a great day:)

07-22-2014, 05:47 PM
Maybe we need to stop talking car audio before we both end up in over our head...lol After reading the messages I'm shaking my head, "yeah, Zapco, hmmm...McIntosh, Dynaudio"... I had some 3" Dynaudio in my old 94 1500 Silverado. took out the stock 4x10s and had to build it up and out since they were so massive. The oversized 6.75" mids fit nicely in the door, then rather than buy a prefab box for the extra cab under seat (typically they make an undersized prefab for a 10" or 12"), I ran a 10" Eclipse titanium, but the excursion was near hitting the seat. I thought just over 1" clearance was enough but I ended up putting washers to lift the seat up a tad. I sold that and only took the sub and tuner and threw that in my EVO with a new larger (and ported box).

You know I find it hard to find HU with good signal voltage any more. Seems that the industry is going way blingy and standard 2v out. I miss my old Eclipse as well, but it only have 5v pre-out. Never ran the Zapco line drivers or anything like that (Well the Audio Control 3.1) was somewhat of a line driver, but still took the 2v pre-amp input and sound from the receiver. Now they have processors that clean the sound up then increase voltage, that'd be sweet it I was building something that could benefit from it. Competition days are over for me.

I miss tinkering....lol

Here is the "other" latest project that I'm suffering through. 1973 F100 http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?89540-Another-F100-swap

07-22-2014, 06:03 PM
Very cool truck project:)

Where did you find such a clean truck to start with, it looks nearly new!


I have toned it down considerably over the years but still have great sound for a modest amount spent, all I learned in competition has paid off well since!

I went from that crazy system to an 8443 Eclipse, 5 channel AB amp, full size Seas aluminum tweeters and PE RS180 mids, single 10 sub....once broken in and tuned it was still a fine system and I was into it under $1k. It really would of been competitive in sound quality comps in a regional area as it had incredible staging, height, width depth, center image....because it was built right and massively deadened.

I am OK with a system like that and what I am doing to the ST because there will always be some road noise and most music is not recorded very well, I can enjoy a bit lessor quality but more quantity now and driving down the road, not a big difference unless some really horrid recordings, to many of those around......

07-22-2014, 08:41 PM
Young soldier with stay at home wife who was pregnant...Truck had to go because baby was on way....Fella was from Texas and had truck prior to joining. This is a great area to pick vehicles like that. Soldiers moving over seas, going on deployment, or run in to a financial strain need to sell asap. Many a great deals to be had over here. A stack of $100 bills always helps.

I was searching for quite a while for something that had a good body, the rest I didn't car about, that was it! lol Outside is great, inside was a bit nasty and engine/trans leaked so bad I stopped for gas and have to buy a quart of oil and trans fluid...