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P0507 Leak after OCC?

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Location
Vancouver
#1
Recently installed the 2JR FMIC on my car and the JBR Catch Can on my car and noticing a high idle issue that eventually lead to a CEL for P0507 (high idle RPM)
The FMIC I installed about 10 days ago, catch can about 3 weeks ago. Issue only started last night after work and car was idling at 1200 RPM on the stage 3 Cobb OTS tune
I reflashed it to Stage 1 OTS and the idle dropped to ~950-1050 RPM which is still high but not as high as on stage 3.

I'm really not familiar with turbos or engine tuning but thought it was strange that the results were different on stage 1 vs stage 3 at idle

I looked into it and found this thread on focusstorg about a user's experience with the JBR OCC so that's what I'm going to look into first, surprised that no one on any of the Fiesta ST forums had P0507 issues though so wanted to double check with you guys if you've seen this.

Could a loose intercooler hose (pre-throttle body) cause a high idle issue or is it strictly post throttle body?

I run the AP gauges and the boost pressure on both stage 1 and stage 3 at vacuum and on boost looked right (stage 3: -11 to 23.5 PSI) and (stage 1: -11 to 21 PSI)
AFR looks good for the most part, sometimes when letting off the throttle it will drop to around 12 for a split second

Gonna check the OCC first after work today but you guys think it's worthwhile checking the FMIC? Feeling lazy to re/re the bumper again...
 


Hijinx

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#2
Try swapping back to the stock PCV tube. It's easy, it's quick, and will tell you if it's the OCC.
 


OP
justinsane
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Thread Starter #4
Money on boost leak. Check your connections/clamps.
So I wanted to change my oil today any way and popped the hood. Took out the engine cover to briefly inspect the OCC and there it was



Good news is I don't have to re and re the bumper to check the FMIC
Need to source some kind of upgraded hose I guess, the ones JBR provide didn't work out I guess.
Might upgrade the other hose while I'm at it don't know if I can really trust them any more considering they only lasted 2-3 weeks

I liked how this OCC looked OEM especially with the engine cover back on but hope it's actually built to last

At least I discovered this problem sooner rather than later, have a track day in 5 weeks so plenty of time to get this sorted.
 


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Campbell
#6
This catch can looks a lot like the Diamond OCC which I have bought but not installed yet.

I double checked and it has a hose that loops around maybe 4x the length with the fittings already installed, no hose clamps on the engine end which looks even more OEM.

It does cost a little more but seems like it won't have this issue.

By the way, the motor mounts let the engine move a lot which is probably the root cause of the split hose you have.
 


Hijinx

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#7
This catch can looks a lot like the Diamond OCC which I have bought but not installed yet.

I double checked and it has a hose that loops around maybe 4x the length with the fittings already installed, no hose clamps on the engine end which looks even more OEM.

It does cost a little more but seems like it won't have this issue.

By the way, the motor mounts let the engine move a lot which is probably the root cause of the split hose you have.
I assure you JBR OCC came out quite some time before Damond's and the two companies have nothing to do with each other.

Anyway, I doubt it was due to engine movement. More than likely it's the material used. I once had this CC and the rubber split at the manifold connection. It's a very soft rubber. So soft that oil will begin to seep through at all connection points.
 


OP
justinsane
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Thread Starter #8
My mechanic agrees and said the hose material/thickness seemed pretty flimsy
Curious how others with JBR OCC are holding up
 


jayrod1980

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#9
Looks like that hose is just a little too short. I debated between the two OCCs and got the Damond one. The hoses given are longer and really beefy. Truth is I processed it because of the OEM quick connections.

Only thing I had to do was twist a single hose because the worm clamp near the check valve was wearing into my coolant overflow container.

With yours, was there any option to mount it in a way that didn't put tension on that bend?
 


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Council Bluffs
#10
So I just got the same trouble code and I've had my JBR OCC on for only a couple days. Gonna check my hoses here shortly, so hopefully that's all it is. My question, at the same time I popped a code for ECU (engine control units dtc's). Anyone know what that is?

Also what hoses are recommended to replace the JBR ones?


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Messages
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#11
So I just got the same trouble code and I've had my JBR OCC on for only a couple days. Gonna check my hoses here shortly, so hopefully that's all it is. My question, at the same time I popped a code for ECU (engine control units dtc's). Anyone know what that is?

Also what hoses are recommended to replace the JBR ones?


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#12
Just checked my hoses and none seemed ripped. Although I'm not all that happy with the fit of my houses, so a recommendation is still in order please.


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OffTheWall503

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#14
After reading all these issues with OCCs, I'm glad I spent a little more for the Mishimoto. At least I know they spend a lot of time in R&D and testing.
 


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#15
Those hoses look to be about as good as the ones JBR sent with the kit. Am I wrong? Please correct me if I'm wrong.


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Location
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#16
Now I just drove my car home and a different code popped: P2282. I cleared the prior code and now this is showing up. My Mountune intake clamps are pretty secure. Any suggestions Ford friends?


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Sourskittle

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#17
A SURE solution to issues like these is to block off all the vacuum connections and use a can that is vent to atmosphere and doesn't require vacuum source. No boost leaks, no check valves, no vacuum leaks.
 


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Location
Council Bluffs
#18
So I have zero clue what that is since all you're showing me is a picture. Do you have a link to said can?

Otherwise, some helpful advice to stopping these CELs would be awesome. First turbo car I've modded so stuff like this doesn't help me without pertinent information. Thanks for trying tho.


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Sourskittle

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#19
Stock and expensive "bolt-on" catch cans use the engines vacuum to help pull crankcase out of the engine.

If you give up that said vacuum source, so your not
Using the engines vacuum to pull crank pressure out, and you simply VENT those crank case vapors out of the catch can, it means there is a 1000% percent chance the oil from crank case vents will never reach the back of your valves, because it doesn't have a hose to travel from the can to the intake.

Crank case pressure is.... Pressure. It finds its way to the catch can just fine. The oil stays in the can, the vapor goes out the filter/vent you see on top.

Its not what jesus or the EPA would like you to do, but.... Its better than oily intake valves.
 


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