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Air box movement and Hood prop movement?

DHM1

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#1
Just wondering if anyone else is having the same or similar issue i have. My air box becomes unmounted and pops my hood prop out of its stand everytime i pop my hood i have to push my air box down, reconnect the cold air duct and i clip my hood prop back in its holder. I know its just because of to much engine movement and i have stock mounts and i make over 300ftlbs lol but i was just wondering if it happens to anyone else thats all.

Thanks

Russ.
 


OP
DHM1

DHM1

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Thread Starter #3
Never had that happen, lol. Maybe you should upgrade your mount. :)
I agree i should! lol Car goes 1.8 60ft with the stock one lol. Oh well been so busy making parts, working and the holidays now. I can wait till after the new year. Which RMM do you have?
 


Sekred

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#6
Wow you must have a lot of engine movement, I don't think even Sourskittle has pop his airbox . You running the stock hose or a silicon one ?.
 


JPGC

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Even with the Cobb RMM, my engine moves around decently. I noticed this on the dyno. I can't imagine how bad with the stocker. Probably looks like it's trying to climb out of the engine bay.
 


OP
DHM1

DHM1

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Thread Starter #8
Wow you must have a lot of engine movement, I don't think even Sourskittle has pop his airbox . You running the stock hose or a silicon one ?.
My car is 100% stock. My VD charts show any were from 300-330wtq every pull. It makes alot of down low power more than stock parts should take. lol

Even with the Cobb RMM, my engine moves around decently. I noticed this on the dyno. I can't imagine how bad with the stocker. Probably looks like it's trying to climb out of the engine bay.
I bet. I think i am going to put it on the dyno for some bone stock tune only numbers.
 


Sourskittle

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I asked Boomba to make new mounts for all the engine mounts and just make the all mild, instead of 1 really hard mount connected to a bunch of sloppy soft mounts. They said they had no plans at all to do that ( shrugs shoulders ).

Me personally, I'd like some inserts for the stock mounts and a cobb or breedT rear mount. For now, my 2J race mount is getting me by, but its pretty harsh ( ok a lot ), and the motor still flops around like a catfish when slow-motion 1st gear speed bumps pop-up ( which is everyday for me because A) I live in gods waiting room Florida B) I live in an apartment complex where people don't have enough sense to stay below 10-15mph without speed-cliffs.

But as far as the air box coming out? Its only happened once, that's when I sheared the motor mount bolt at the track on the stock mount.

I feel like i'm paying all the price of harsh mounted motor, with 30% of the benefit.
 


OP
DHM1

DHM1

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Thread Starter #12
I asked Boomba to make new mounts for all the engine mounts and just make the all mild, instead of 1 really hard mount connected to a bunch of sloppy soft mounts. They said they had no plans at all to do that ( shrugs shoulders ).

Me personally, I'd like some inserts for the stock mounts and a cobb or breedT rear mount. For now, my 2J race mount is getting me by, but its pretty harsh ( ok a lot ), and the motor still flops around like a catfish when slow-motion 1st gear speed bumps pop-up ( which is everyday for me because A) I live in gods waiting room Florida B) I live in an apartment complex where people don't have enough sense to stay below 10-15mph without speed-cliffs.

But as far as the air box coming out? Its only happened once, that's when I sheared the motor mount bolt at the track on the stock mount.

I feel like i'm paying all the price of harsh mounted motor, with 30% of the benefit.
I meant to ask what bolt did you shear?
 


Sourskittle

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Passenger side hydraulic mount bolt. Its a bolt that runs vertical. I'm pretty sure I posted pics and info on it, but.. I can't remember where, lol.
 


OP
DHM1

DHM1

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Passenger side hydraulic mount bolt. Its a bolt that runs vertical. I'm pretty sure I posted pics and info on it, but.. I can't remember where, lol.
lol did ford warranty that?
 


RAAMaudio

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SS put in a higher grade bolt, as I did when he posted this, if Ford warrantied it they would just put in the same lower grade one so not worth the bother.

Since you are making that much torque and drag racing I advise taking off the battery mount and look under the transaxle mount cover. There is a gap on the front and rear about 1/8" and 1/4" on top between the rubber covering the aluminum and the steel mount top which allows far to much movement. I sent SS some parts to play with, not sure done yet, I would make a filler for that area to stop things from moving around so much.

I make a whole new top as moved the battery to the rear of the car and did not need that strong pieced just for the mount so made a lower weight one.

This is an easy mod I feel really should be done, I run 225 RA1 track tires, Quaife LSD and the Cobb rear mount and have no axle hop at all and barely any torque steer ever.

The Cobb does allow some movement but not bad once the transaxle mount was made none of my close fitting parts like DP, exhaust, touch any longer when I get on it:)
 


OP
DHM1

DHM1

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Thread Starter #16
SS put in a higher grade bolt, as I did when he posted this, if Ford warrantied it they would just put in the same lower grade one so not worth the bother.

Since you are making that much torque and drag racing I advise taking off the battery mount and look under the transaxle mount cover. There is a gap on the front and rear about 1/8" and 1/4" on top between the rubber covering the aluminum and the steel mount top which allows far to much movement. I sent SS some parts to play with, not sure done yet, I would make a filler for that area to stop things from moving around so much.

I make a whole new top as moved the battery to the rear of the car and did not need that strong pieced just for the mount so made a lower weight one.

This is an easy mod I feel really should be done, I run 225 RA1 track tires, Quaife LSD and the Cobb rear mount and have no axle hop at all and barely any torque steer ever.

The Cobb does allow some movement but not bad once the transaxle mount was made none of my close fitting parts like DP, exhaust, touch any longer when I get on it:)
I was just wondering if they did and what they said. I get a kick out of how dense the dealers are. I plan on going over all the mounts this weekend when i have the car apart over my break. I have a local company that make mounts and i wonder if it would be worth making like a set of nice 65a side mounts for our cars what do you guys think? As for moving my battery to the back not a chance lol keep all my weight up front ;)

Russ
 


JPGC

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#17
Id be all about a set of front mounts as long as the price wasn't too high. I'd be cool to have a red set too ;-)
 


Sourskittle

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I'd be in for some inserts. I think the design on the driver side is just very poorly thought out for the ST at least. Filling the gap would help immensely. I saw it, but didn't fix it when I did my boomba shifter bracket bushings. Its sorta crazy.

I think the passenger side mount actually works on a vertical axis, where the driver mount works on a horizontal front-rear, and the rear of course is a "anti-roll mount".

The passenger side mount is pretty "different", lol.
 


JPGC

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I'd be in for some inserts. I think the design on the driver side is just very poorly thought out for the ST at least. Filling the gap would help immensely. I saw it, but didn't fix it when I did my boomba shifter bracket bushings. Its sorta crazy.

I think the passenger side mount actually works on a vertical axis, where the driver mount works on a horizontal front-rear, and the rear of course is a "anti-roll mount".

The passenger side mount is pretty "different", lol.
Wrong thread, lol?
Edit...stupid tapatalk
 


RAAMaudio

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SS, that is why I send you those pieces of aluminum, you could just make something from them or at least design something using them as a template, etc....:)

---------------

The mount is a rather solid section of aluminum bolted to the transaxle case. It is rubber wrapped, not real soft, not real thick, just shimming it is all I did for testing using some 1/8" inch aluminum sheet I bent on a sheet metal brake. Perhaps a more precise fitment would be in order that what I did but a simple part could be machined to just slide over the front, rear and top of the stock mount and take out all the slack.

Pretty sure the rubber area is glued on so it would take some effort to remove and slide a full fitting urethane mount on but not a horrible job, just not able to go back to stock if ever wished. A simple shim would go on easier, most likely do the job just fine, easy to removed if needed for any reason...

But, having a mount company look it over and come up with their recommendation or make the parts should be the better way to go, please do look into this:)

----------

Drag racers, certainly want to keep the battery up front:)
 


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