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Best RMM available?

Messages
176
Likes
33
Location
Stafford, CT, USA
#1
I am in the market for a RMM upgrade. I am having a hard time deciding between Cobb, Boomba and Mountune. Anyone willing to offer their opinion on this matter?
 


LT Berzerker

Active member
Messages
668
Likes
130
#2
I'm still breaking in my boomba... However, there is nvh down low under load in any gear from 1500-2000rpm... Only have 60 miles on it so far. Heard it breaks in well and super easy to install since it has its own bracket :)
 


Messages
97
Likes
14
Location
Toronto, On
#3
I am in the market for a RMM upgrade. I am having a hard time deciding between Cobb, Boomba and Mountune. Anyone willing to offer their opinion on this matter?
I guess it really all boils down to how much NVH you can tolerate. If you want close to OEM = Cobb or Mountune. Boomba is not for everyone as it may be too harsh. Also add CP-E to your list of candidates.
 


LT Berzerker

Active member
Messages
668
Likes
130
#4
Boomba is great above 1700 rpm with light to moderate load, unless your in 5th or 6th gear. Starting from a stop with light load you will get significant nvh, however, of you are easy on starts then it's not very noticeable... (600 miles on my boomba so far)... Cold weather starts nvh is much more noticeable (under 40 degrees out)
Suffice to say if your staying in the shift light zone and accelerating you'll get significant nvh (1500 to 2100rpm)... 50mph and above, slightly more noise than stock, but not really noticeable...
 


Messages
320
Likes
59
Location
Newark
#8
^^That's the feedback I was waiting to hear. A comparison between the two. While I don't mind feeling my car more, I've had my fair share of cars with stiffer mounts all around, and I've gone back to stock on upper and lower mounts because of NVH. Daily driving a vibration machine is no fun.
 


Chuckable

Active member
Messages
559
Likes
90
Location
South Florida
#9
To be fair to Cobb, I didn't see any torque values for the bolts in the Cobb instructions (maybe I missed them) so I just tightened the bolts based upon common sense. The Moutune unit came with instructions with torque values, and so I made sure to use the torque wrench on the bolts when installing the Mountune unit. Perhaps the Cobb would've vibrated less with the bolts tightened more? I'll never know!
 


BlueBomber

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,086
Likes
118
Location
Anaheim
#10
The Mountune one is more comfortable but Cobb is more rigid, those two IMHO are the best options on the market.

Do you like black and yellow or just black?

The Mountune unit has better damping, having had BOTH on my car.
 


Chuckable

Active member
Messages
559
Likes
90
Location
South Florida
#11
I like how the Mountune feels and shifts in day-to-day driving, and haven't noticed any loss in "stiffness." Everyone is different, though, so it's somewhat subjective. The Cobb unit uses a different material with voids around the circumference whereas the Mountune unit is solid but made of polyurethane.
 


OP
S
Messages
176
Likes
33
Location
Stafford, CT, USA
Thread Starter #12
I decided to go with Mountune. After reading many reviews I figured it was the best option for me. Thank you guys for all of your feedback. I will let you know how I like it. It is on back order at the moment so I should have it within the next month.
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
Messages
870
Likes
913
Location
Germantown
#13
The Mountune one is the same thing as a stock mount with Powerflex bushings installed. Cobb has the voids to add more compliance into the mount. I plan on just polyurethane filling my stock mount till my warranty is over with, then go with a set of Powerflex bushings.
 


OP
S
Messages
176
Likes
33
Location
Stafford, CT, USA
Thread Starter #14
Yeah I just won't have to press out the bushings with the Mountune. My dealership said it wouldn't be an issue with my warranty either.
 


iso100

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,500
Likes
135
#15
I am in the market for a RMM upgrade. I am having a hard time deciding between Cobb, Boomba and Mountune. Anyone willing to offer their opinion on this matter?
My vote is for the CP-E. Love mine!
 


Messages
341
Likes
43
Location
Charlotte
#16
Does anyone have the Breedt one? I know they were a vendor on the other forum, but never made it over here. Just something about allowing you to swap out the bushings kind of appealed to me. Still haven't pulled the trigger yet on any of them, so if no one has it, I may be the guinea pig for it.
 


rodmoe

5000 Post Club
Messages
5,810
Likes
580
Location
wausau
#17
Does anyone have the Breedt one? I know they were a vendor on the other forum, but never made it over here. Just something about allowing you to swap out the bushings kind of appealed to me. Still haven't pulled the trigger yet on any of them, so if no one has it, I may be the guinea pig for it.
I read someplace either on that forum or their facebook page they were leaving forums in general to focus on selling from their website only.. not sure why but I really liked the looks of there products ..
 


Sourskittle

4000 Post Club
Messages
4,567
Likes
860
Location
Lakeland
#18
For what its worth to you guys... ( and no, I'm not going to get into a debate with trolls on this one ), but in experience so far, I can tell you the mounts in these cars CAN CAUSE FALSE KNOCK and cost you power.

Example #1 was a loose passenger side mount that caused low speed knock when hitting a bump or just low rpm driving ( like 1,000-1500rpm ). I'd get -1.00 knock with E40 fuel on 4psi at part throttle.

Example #2 has happened recently. I've made a few short post about it, but... My 2J race insert worked great but then wore fast because its taking all the load ( the other soft mounts are doing bery little at that point ). Well, after many months with it, it was obvious that solid bushing was becoming oval-ed. After inspected it in hand, it truely was. I then took my stock mount out of the closest. I hammered in some heavy industrial roll pins, and then filled the gaps left with castle clear silicone adhesive. Inlet it cure for about 6 weeks because i had other fish to fry ( like a 93oct tune ).
Fast forward to last week. I finally had time and actually had the stock re-enforced mount in the car, so I installed it. Wow... Nice to have some comfort back. But the biggest thing I've noticed? The tunes/settings that used to get -1.50 to -1.00 to -1.25 of knock corrections on randomly, now have.... 0.00 corrrections. I have only seen once correction in over a week now and it was a -0.32 on 1 cylinder and that's pretty normal actually. The race mount was DEFINITELY causing false knock.

I did lose some of the greater things about the stiff mount, but i think I'm going to sleeve it and save it for "track only" duty, which its very good at.

I asked Boomba about building a solution for the other mounts on the car, but they said it was not in the plan. Some one needs to address these other mounts. A 33%-45% increase in stiffness to all the mounts is a much better solution than having mounts made of chewing gum mixed 1 mount made of concrete.

Take that info for what it is :) love it hate it debate it. I've just giving my personal findings to yall.
 


Original J-Pat

Active member
Messages
694
Likes
32
Location
SoCal
#19
For what its worth to you guys... ( and no, I'm not going to get into a debate with trolls on this one ), but in experience so far, I can tell you the mounts in these cars CAN CAUSE FALSE KNOCK and cost you power.

Example #1 was a loose passenger side mount that caused low speed knock when hitting a bump or just low rpm driving ( like 1,000-1500rpm ). I'd get -1.00 knock with E40 fuel on 4psi at part throttle.

Example #2 has happened recently. I've made a few short post about it, but... My 2J race insert worked great but then wore fast because its taking all the load ( the other soft mounts are doing bery little at that point ). Well, after many months with it, it was obvious that solid bushing was becoming oval-ed. After inspected it in hand, it truely was. I then took my stock mount out of the closest. I hammered in some heavy industrial roll pins, and then filled the gaps left with castle clear silicone adhesive. Inlet it cure for about 6 weeks because i had other fish to fry ( like a 93oct tune ).
Fast forward to last week. I finally had time and actually had the stock re-enforced mount in the car, so I installed it. Wow... Nice to have some comfort back. But the biggest thing I've noticed? The tunes/settings that used to get -1.50 to -1.00 to -1.25 of knock corrections on randomly, now have.... 0.00 corrrections. I have only seen once correction in over a week now and it was a -0.32 on 1 cylinder and that's pretty normal actually. The race mount was DEFINITELY causing false knock.

I did lose some of the greater things about the stiff mount, but i think I'm going to sleeve it and save it for "track only" duty, which its very good at.

I asked Boomba about building a solution for the other mounts on the car, but they said it was not in the plan. Some one needs to address these other mounts. A 33%-45% increase in stiffness to all the mounts is a much better solution than having mounts made of chewing gum mixed 1 mount made of concrete.

Take that info for what it is :) love it hate it debate it. I've just giving my personal findings to yall.
Has anyone solved this problem?
 


TUX15ST

Active member
Messages
546
Likes
86
Location
SOUTH BOUND BROOK
#20
Bumping an old thread so i remember to post later about my comparison between my cobb mount (currently installed) and my cpe that i am going to replace it with. I do dd the car so im looking for performance and comfort, i will compare both once i get the cpe in, hopefully tonight! and then im going to sell which i like less lol
 


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