I set the ride height quite some time ago and do not recall as it was not meant to be permanent, just a starting point, it is probably 1/4" or less lower.
It is a bit tricky determining the exact center of the ball joint, best to take a wheel off and look at the top and bottom and then mark what looks to be the center. To be more precise I will remove the knuckle from the control arm and then move the joint around to get a better visual of the center. Then mark it on the outside where I can see it the best and using a straight edge, square, etc I can measure it better once back together, the wheel is back on and the car on the ground and been rolled around.
Then inner pickup is easier, the center of the bolt but also the center of the rear mount as well so get the best you can on that and split the difference for inboard.
Instead of being absolutely accurate, which is not easy, it is pretty easy to just be lower on the outside than the front and knowing it is going to be close to optimal and only a bit of fine tuning would be left that should not make a huge difference.
Almost always on all cars we want the front lower than the rear, eventually I will get to that as well when I do a very accurate setup which includes using the scales, jacking a side of the car, getting the true CG, front and rear roll centers, etc..............I might even want the rear even or slightly lower to keep more weight on the back of the car, something I have never done before but I always have an open mind and test all I can.
For now:
Front
Front camber is -2.5, adjusted at the top of the struts, would of used the knuckle mounts but the wheels and tires are two close.
Stock castor, I have ran more positive on FWD with good results but I had more rubber on the ground, 265 slicks, lower CG, wider track, same weight car.
1/8" toe out
Rear
-1.9 camber
0.0 toe
Slightly higher, around 10mm ride height
With approx 210WHP, 225 slicks on 15x9 wheels, stock front sway bar with stiffer bushings and Steeda adjustable end links, no rear bar, all urethane bushings(ordered race grade, received street grade and no time to wait for them to manufacture the right ones I installed them and am fine with them)
My own BBK fornt and rear, carbotech XP12/8 pads. I was 5 seconds a lap faster than the national champ spec miata, I may have more power, they weigh less and as we all know are incredible handling cars. Even the pro race driver/instructors were quite amazed at my lap times and the car was very easy to drive all out which I was and beyond, purposely over driving it to shake out any issues and see what happens if I blow it, MMP is a safe track to find the weak points, I found none, car was incredible and only issue after two days of pounding over the curbs, etc.....lost 2 PSI in one tire.
This is my third FWD project car, first was the first turbo 1ZZ Matrix in the world, 250whp on a simple turbo with a simple 5th injector tune and far fewer mods and less chassis to start with, second fastest SM car in SoCal, that is saying a great deal!
Second was the TC, better chassis, IRS, foam filled chassis, CF roof, caged, 250lbs lighter than stock, 265 tires, far more mods than the Matrix, national classTT performance.
Now the FiST, best chassis, coolest looking, most fun, in many ways my favorite car ever