Brake Bleeding Tips?

[WhiteFords]

I am swapping in Stoptech stainless lines and ATE brake fluid tomorrow. I have read a couple stories on the almighty interweb about having to use the scantool to open the ABS valves to get all the air out of the system. I'm old school, not used to dealing with the ABS units.

Are there any tips to getting the lines swapped, fluid changed, and brakes properly bled?

Edit: it seems that bleeding the ABS unit is only required if components upstream of the ABS HCU are replaced/run dry.

 

[CanadianGuy]

You found right. I have not done it on the fiesta but in other cars changing calipers etc. Best advice is to overfill the master cylinder, keep the cap on tight and work with a prepared plan. I loosen all the nuts before removing any to make sure i dont struggle on one when the part is hafl out. I do try to make sure there is fluid in the line before connecting the bottom(caliper connection). I have had to open the master cylinder cap on some to get flowing. Not required bjt i figure its less air to drain out. Top ip the cylinder after eqch wheel. Once all done i use a small suction pump (turkey baster) to remove any excess.

Good luck and post up your results.

 

[WhiteFords]

Thanks to the great information I found on this forum, most notably posted by D1JL on another post about brake bleeding, job went without issue. Swapped the Stoptech lines in, did a traditional two person pressure bleed, then repeated with the engine running. I found a bit more air in the system when the engine was running. Bled that out, all good.

With the upgraded lines and the ATE fluid, with a 536 degree dry boiling point, I can feel more confident on the track. I've been paying $20 a liter on eBay for the fluid and feel it's a great value.

 

[D1JL]

This is what I posted before.


I have bled these systems many times and never needed special tools or the dealer.

I would suggest that you gravity bleed the system first.
One wheel at a time in this order, RR, LR, RF, LF.


After that bleed as normal with one person on the pedal and one at the wheel.
It is best to use a clear plastic tube on the bleed valve nipple so you can see the fluid.
Do NOT pump the brake pedal, this only puts air back into the system.
Just one press then bleed and repeat on all wheels until there is no air.
Always do RR, LR, RF, then LF.

You do not need to do the gravity bleed again.
However then do the same procedure again with the engine running.

This method has worked for me every time without fail.




Dave