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Powering small sub via aux outlet..

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Jersey City
#1
Does anyone know how many amps the aux outlet in rear runs and how thick the wire for it is?

I was considering using it to power (not just remote wire, but actually power) a small 160W (90RMS) subwoofer via the outlet instead of running a dedicated line from the battery -- I know, I know is sounds like being lazy, etc.. however considering the sub has a built in amp with a 7.5A fuse on it, I wondered whether this may be a better option, especially since that outlet has 0 use to me...

has anyone done similar?

thx
 


Hijinx

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#2
I've never heard of doing this, but it has bad idea written all over it.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #3
It might be a bad idea :) I don't know.. it just seems super convenient to run a short wire right behind the center console under the seat and bam you got power in the trunk... I looked through the manual and found the outlets are rated for 20A, that should be more than enough for my small sub given that the sub is fused at 7.5A ... I am guessing the front and rear outlets are both on the same line, so if I go crazy plugging in items on the front outlet and have the sub connected to the rear, then I can exceed it... but given that I only have a phone charger plugged in and never plan to connect anything else, then I feel I should never exceed the capacity... Also, I read that the outlet is switched and powers down 30 mins after engine is off, which is also nice to have and can probably run both the power and the on/off line from the same source in this case.
 


CanadianGuy

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#4
Sould work. Just remember that the outlets do not turn off so if you need turn off the sub you need to figure something else out.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #5
Thanks CanadianGuy, although I seem to have read in the manual the outlets go off 30 minutes after turning off the car. I'll look it up again to confirm. I think I'll give this a try, it seems like a clean way to hook up a small sub. Read a bunch of online forum posts on the subject, most advising against unless the sub/amp is definitely low powered like mine.. so will give it a try this Tuesday and report back -- if anyone else thinks this is a terrible idea and I shouldnt do it please chime in :) thanks much
 


CanadianGuy

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#6
Thanks CanadianGuy, although I seem to have read in the manual the outlets go off 30 minutes after turning off the car.
Shot me over where you found that as I have a camera plugged into the outlet and I have left it plug well over 30 minutes. I don't remember it shutting off. The interior lights do if you leave the door open.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #7
Shot me over where you found that as I have a camera plugged into the outlet and I have left it plug well over 30 minutes. I don't remember it shutting off. The interior lights do if you leave the door open.
I saw it on page 109 in the manual, it mentioned that the power can be used for 30 mins after shutting the car off -- today I confirmed that the outlet is off after the car has been sitting powered off for a few hours. With your camera, it may be that it has an internal battery that is recharged while plugged in and takes over when there is no power suppiled (that's how my camera acts).
 


CanadianGuy

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#8
I saw it on page 109 in the manual, it mentioned that the power can be used for 30 mins after shutting the car off -- today I confirmed that the outlet is off after the car has been sitting powered off for a few hours. With your camera, it may be that it has an internal battery that is recharged while plugged in and takes over when there is no power suppiled (that's how my camera acts).
THanks. Maybe you are right. Worth an experiment on my part.
 


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#9
No. No. No some more. Even in the event that the wiring/circuit can keep up with current demands and not melt or catch fire, the sound quality would be horrid. Do it right the first time.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #11
Sooo.... I did it today... and the sound is actually very good -- I got caught in the rain so did not get to tune the amp, but I was very happy with initial outcome ...

Here is what I did --
- spliced into the rear speaker for line in using this LOC: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
- I used a 12 gauge cigarette lighter extension and cut the other end to feed power and ground to the amp:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P68L9RO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
- I ran the wire under the seat cushion straight into the hatch
- I plan to hardwire it to the cigarette port if I'm happy with this setup + I plan to add a fuse at the start of my line + I also will drop in a 10A fuse for the aux in place of the current 20A to be safe
- I used the same power wire as the remote switch (and tested that it indeed does power off after 30 mins after ignition is turned off)
- I have to play with the amp more to remove some of the highs coming through, but when i just dropped the filter to 70hz it sounded great
- This is the sub/amp I am using: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WN2JS4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I know this is not a conventional setup, but honestly I feel it sounds very very good compared to stock and is a pretty clean install. I will take pics once the rain subsides and I can make the wiring a bit nicer..

A couple of questions for the sound gurus here:
- Is it better for me to feed speaker inputs straight into my amp's 'high level input' OR am i better off using the LOC that I linked to and feed into the amp's RCA line in? (edit: did some quick research and overwhelming advice on the web is to use high level input on the amp instead of an external LOC so i will change that with my setup..)
- For the remote line, I just bridged it to the power in with a small wire -- is that acceptable since the power is switched?
 


dyn085

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#12
I feel like I'm reading a high-school story...

It's not a clean install if your sub is getting power and remote from a cigarette lighter.

Finally, if you can afford a new car, why can you not afford a clean subwoofer installation? It doesn't have to be expensive to be right, but you seem to have cheaped-out below even the minimum level...
 


D1JL

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#13
As long as you like what you have done and it works so be it.
It seems to me however, that accessing the wires you need from under the right door sill plate or right kick panel would have been easier.
There you would have found the head unit controlled power wire (for antenna) to trigger your sub amp, this will shut down the amp so you don't need to wait 30 minutes.
Main power could easily be obtained from the body fuse panel behind the glove box.





Dave
 


OP
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Thread Starter #14
Like I said, maybe not optimal install, but it does work well. I've done 5-6 setups in previous cars where I went through great lengths to run crazy thick colorful wires and hide them throughout the car to make it all just perfect, but now I realized I can accomplish the same effect without any extra wiring under my hood. It really is not about the $$ [MENTION=930]dyn085[/MENTION], it's more experimenting with something different, which is the whole reason why I chose this car over an FRS.

Dave, I did not know about the antenna remote power -- I like the idea so I'll look to run that wire back.
 


D1JL

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#15
As I said the antenna power wire can be found under the right door sill or behind the right kick panel.
It is BLACK in color.



Dave
 


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