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OEM Brake Pad Break-in

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45
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12
Location
Madison
#1
Hey Everyone,

I just changed pads and rotors and replaced with OEM parts. I've looked around a little but I can't find a definitive answer on the break-in procedure. Is it just a few stops from 30-35, then a few from 40-45, then a few from 55-60, let cool down, and repeat? Is it in a manual somewhere? Total newb here on changing this stuff.

Thanks!
 


Messages
43
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5
Location
Albany
#2
Iirc some performance pads are do a few hard slow downs not stops from like 40 to 15. Then drive for a little normal. Usually they don't want you to stop so the rotors don't get hot spots from stopping. I could be very wrong though.
 


RAAMaudio

5000 Post Club
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Location
Carson City
#4
If you are changing pad material a full bed in is the best, if using the same pads then something a bit less is all you need, perhaps addressed in the links above.

How brakes work is transferring material from the pads to the rotors so they work in unison for stopping.

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Note:

Best to never hold your foot on the brakes after a hard stop from any decent speed or coming down a mountain, etc as holding your foot on the brakes after a hard stop can transfer material to the pad contact area and lead to pulsing which most think is warped rotors which hardly ever happens.

If you get your brakes really hot like on a road race track a cool down lap is highly recommended or driving around the pits a bit but if you have to park the car use a chock and move the car every minute or less until the brakes are cooled down.

If you do get pad transfer induced pulsing you can usually use some steel wool and brake cleaner to remove it, far less hassle than having the rotors turned, which is seldom ever needed. (Slightly grooved rotors usually do not need turned either as pads will wear to the rotors fairly quickly, in the majority of cases, brake shops are not anybodies friend;)
 


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