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The Siesta - I'm being an idiot again and again...

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#1
fisen.jpg cylinder4.jpg oldfisen.jpg
Might as well post some info's on my own little white ride, and what I plan to do with it. It's a European spec 2014 Fiesta ST in Frozen White.


Progress:
02-06-2021
I'm an idiot. Engine is blown, cracked cylinder 4. So what's the plan? Well how about being a total doofus and building the short block myself, just because I want to. I'm not a mechanic, but after pulling and installing the engine a few times already, dismantling it and learning alot along the way, I thought the next fun thing would be: Build my own damn short block. As stated, yes I am an idiot, no question. But I also love tinkering and learning about this stuff. And I do have a 2014 Fiesta Mk7 1.0L EcoBoost to ride in while this i ongoing.

09-12-2023
Update, I did this silly thing and started an engine build. Got a stock Ford block brand new from PumaSpeed.
block.jpg

Wiseco Pistons and rings. Stock 79mm.
wiseco_00.jpg wiseco_01.jpg

K1 Connecting rods.
k1.jpg

KING Racing CR4365XP STD - Rod bearings
KING Racing MB5009XP STD - Main bearings
ARP 251-4302 - headstuds
1705488462891.png

Pistons and rods with rings ready to go in.
1705488578746.png
 


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#4
I think wraps like that are corny and something you'd see on a poorly modded Honda. To each his own. I like what you have going so far though.
 


OP
daloonie
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Thread Starter #5
To each his own indeed. I like it and not everyone will. That is not the point either, to get everyone to like it.

I would like it to make a little stir and stand out from the blandness of the morning and afternoon traffic. But that is a project in the distance as I do value performance over looks.
 


OP
daloonie
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Thread Starter #6
Finally got my RMM big bush installed. Was quite a hassle. Took me 3 hours to pry the original bushing out and install the new from Powerflex.

All dismantled. Took brute force, sawing out a piece of the bushing casing and removing the entire center of the bush. The black/brown stuff is Dinitrol oil based anti rust. Cleans up easily with some strong oil dissolving chemical from Kema. Strong smelly poisonous stuff.
rmm_fomoco.jpg

Here it is all cleaned up for mounting the bush.
rmm_fomoco_powerflex.jpg

All together and ready for mounting.
rmm_powerflex.jpg

Was too eager to drive it I forgot to snap a picture while I had the car jacked up. You can just glimpse the yellow bushing here.
rmm_powerflex_mounted.jpg

It makes a world of difference when launching. Did a quick 1st -> 2nd gear launch to 80kmh(around 50mph). Wheel hop was completely eliminated and gripped much better. Gearshifts on power was no hassle at all.

I say for £30($46) odd something it's a hell of a deal. Especially when an entire unit is £110($168).

Will recommend.
 


OP
daloonie
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Thread Starter #7
First post updated.

Now a complete RMM bushing upgrade. Runs smooth and nice.

Did it on jackstands which gave me a problem. Couldn't even loosen the bolts for the suspension to install the 2 point lower stress bar. Couldn't get enough leverage even to break the bolts loose. Will work on getting it on a ramp at some point to install it. But I might hold off till I can source the funds for a complete suspension bushing upgrade. Those Powerflex bushes aren't cheap.

Looking for a local shop/tuner to install and tune for the new IWA. Tuner's aren't that common around here. Good ones that is.
 


OP
daloonie
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Thread Starter #8
Updated my first post. Got through quite a hassle to install the X47R turbo myself (I'm not a mechanic and did it all alone on jackstands in my driveway). Broke a brittle cooling line to the turbo and the boost solenoid upon taking the old one out. The plug for the wga broke off since it's quite small and seems fragile. Tried to glue it with epoxy but it didn't hold. So I got a new one, quite difficult to install the lines while the turbo is on the car.

All in all the results right now are not dissapointing ??????
 


OP
daloonie
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Thread Starter #9
First post updated, engine build started.
Wiseco Pistons, K1 rods, ARP headstuds, R-Sport oil sump baffle(black friday offer no other reason really), KING Racing bearings, hopefully. Else ACL.

Off the bat when gapping the piston rings. 1st ring, spot on factory spec at .23mm. 2nd ring was .45mm from Wiseco. Odd as the factory spec says .7 - .9mm. Far off. Wiseco points out the second ring gap just needs to be greater than the first. Then all would be well. I then proceeded to gap them into factory spec and hit all 4 from .7 to .8. Any thoughts on this? If factory spec decrees .7 - .9mm I should be more than good.
1702145499878.png

Had me wondering, so I took off the second ring from my old borked engine. It was a refurbished one from eet-engines in the Netherlands. It didn't even look like they cared to gap them at all as they were around .4mm gap on the second ring.
 


OP
daloonie
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Thread Starter #10
New issues arise. Anyways these are minor issues and to do with block revisions.
Have fun reading if you find these kinds of things interesting.

Old block: BM5G-6015-DB
1705485960933.png

New block: BM5G-6015-DC
1705485945320.png

No obvious differences in the block, but the girdle/maincaps are 2 different revisions.
Old girdle: 6334-BB
New girdle: 6334-CA
These 2 have some significant differences. Including bulges for some other application, molding or whatever reason. I hit this specific issue, there's 4 bulges that impede K1 rods with ARP hardware to rotate due to increased bolt size, in cylinders 1, 2 and 4.
https://www.fiestastforum.com/attac....59798/?hash=dc980823205b1e130513c366183ca378

Old top, new bottom(I only have a picture after I started grinding the bulges down to fit K1 rods with ARP hardware):
1705486399293.png

Just handling these 2 I noticed quite a significant difference in weight.
Old: 2842g
New: 2010g
Quite the weight savings.

Anyways I quickly ground down the bulges:
1705487383926.png

I will give it a final pass with some 120-180 grit when I confirm it's enough. But before doing that I need to plug up a bung inside the block for which I'm waiting for a specific BSP 1/4"x19 cutting tab. Yes I have threaded bungs for this and they all need threads cut.

Current state of the car:
1705488242521.png
 


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OP
daloonie
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Thread Starter #12
jtjb_forged.jpg

Finally got the shortblock finished. The girdle has around 3-4mm clearance on the rod bolts with my grinding done. Nothing hits and should be fine. It should not grow enough to actually hit anything.

Rod side clearance on these rods were around 0.20-0.23mm. Should be acceptable.

Rod clearances, measured with plastiguage, are between 0.035-0.040mm perfectly within specs.
1706532058781.png

Mains were within spec as well with around 0.045mm. I can't remember the specific numbers other than in the mid-to-high clearance area as I measured it weeks ago.
1706531958526.png

Plugs got threaded and plugged. With a dab of Victor Reinz oil and coolant safe gasket to ensure no leaking.

Next up, get the head from the old engine pressure tested and if needed, skimmed.
 


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OP
daloonie
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Thread Starter #13
Plopped in the oilpump, splash guard and oilpickup and an R-Sport baffle as well. When I got it the rubber guards where on the outside of the baffle. Making it hard for oil to enter and easy to exit rendering it counter productive. Contemplating just removing the rubber guards. The baffle ought to do enough without them, removing an extra point of failure if they ever were to get loose.
Now I'm waiting for a new rear crank seal as it wasn't included in the "all gaskets" kit from PumaSpeed.
baffled.jpg
 


OP
daloonie
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Thread Starter #15
I usually have no issue with PumaSpeed. Always been satisfied with their products and decent customer support. I only use them for specific Fiesta ST products.
For generic parts I use Autodoc to order from germany, way cheaper than locally sourced parts.
 


OP
daloonie
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Thread Starter #18
Removing old gasket material from the sump, with all the little curves, knooks and crannys is a real PITA. Spent almost 2 hours cleaning the old gasket manually from the sump. I have to get one of those gasket wheel things for my drill. Would've made it soooo much faster and easier.

Had a little issue with the valve tappets. It's the old head from the old engine. Didn't overheat, but I got it skimmed and pressure tested to be sure. It's in good knick.

Had to measure and adjust for clearance since I took it all apart to get it tested. I got everything within spec except for a single exhaust valve. Was .25 -.28mm and needed to be between .31 and .37mm
1708940603124.png
The smallest tappet I had was 2.975, so went directly to Ford and got a .2900 and 2.925. Ended up using the 2.900 for .33 -.35mm clearance.

But got it all within spec and got the head installed with ARP studs and Victor Reinz headgasket. Better production quality than the OE Ford I also have. Next job is cam phasers, waterpump, timing belt and it really is shaping up to be a complete engine. I know I'm slow, I don't work on this every day or even every week. It's a stress releasing hobby for me and I use it to clear my head from everyday stress.
IMG_20240223_170444889.jpg IMG_20240223_192257506.jpg
 


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Fusion Works

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#19
Be careful using the ARP torque specs. If the block wasn't bored and honed with a deck plate and the head is just torqued to ARP's specs you can distort the bores or worse distort the block. I have measured some Honda engines while torquing the main studs to ARP's recommended specs and the main tunnel distorts in unpredictable ways and its not repeatable. I expect Ford has a stronger block but its still worth paying attention to.
 




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