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Upgrading my brakes and want to know how much brake fluid to buy.

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#1
I'm upgrading to the wilwood BBK in the front and swapping out the rear rotors for stoptech and hawk pads and getting steel braided lines all around. In the process I want to flush the system and either run stoptech 600 or motul 600 brake fluid. How much fluid would I need to buy to do a proper flush and refill?
 


RAAMaudio

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#2
Two pints carefully used did the job on my front and rear BBK swap.

Though very costly you may want to look into Castrol SRF, especially if you track the car, it has a much longer service life thus initial cost covers you for much longer use and it has a higher boiling point, less prone to absorb moisture, etc....
 


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#3
Two pints carefully used did the job on my front and rear BBK swap.

Though very costly you may want to look into Castrol SRF, especially if you track the car, it has a much longer service life thus initial cost covers you for much longer use and it has a higher boiling point, less prone to absorb moisture, etc....
I'm assuming SRF is just fine for street use as well? Does this have to be changed more often? The wet and dry boiling points look superior to the stock Motorcraft DOT 4 LV High Performance Brake Fluid; but I shamefully don't know as much about brake fluids as I would like to. Care to shed some light? :)
 


RAAMaudio

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#4
Mostly racers buy this brake fluid as at least on mid level race cars it can last up to a whole season where most fluids need changed far more often.

This fluid should last a very long time in a street car or a street/track car for a purely street car it would be overkill.

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If you did not get your brakes yet do not get drilled rotors, can be OK if not going to really use them fairly hard, slotted or plain rotors are a better way to go.

If staying with stock size rear rotors no real need to change to more expensive ones unless yours are worn out.
If not looked into yet then see what the track guys have done on the rears as might need upgraded.
 


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Kent
#5
Perfect timing for this thread as I'm about to do the exact same thing. I haven't done brakes in forever. Now that all the fluid is amber(RIP superblue), how do you tell when you're done flushing? I always alternated, or waited until it was old.

What's the flare nut wrench size? Just reaching through the wheel my 10mm doesn't want to go on, the 12mm feels loose, and I can't find my 11mm flare wrench.
 


Chuckable

Active member
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#6
Like others have said, 2 pints should do just fine. If you're not going to track the car, then just go with the Ford fluid. The Wilwood BBK caliper uses a standard size (as opposed to metric) if I remember correctly. It was the smallest one in my wrench collection. The OEM rear caliper is something like an 8mm if I remember correctly. Basically, you're going to need small wrenches lol
As far as knowing when the new fluid has displaced the old, the new fluid will be more clear. You'll just know it when you see it in the bleed line.
 


OP
GateCityRadio
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Thread Starter #7
Mostly racers buy this brake fluid as at least on mid level race cars it can last up to a whole season where most fluids need changed far more often.

This fluid should last a very long time in a street car or a street/track car for a purely street car it would be overkill.

--------------

If you did not get your brakes yet do not get drilled rotors, can be OK if not going to really use them fairly hard, slotted or plain rotors are a better way to go.

If staying with stock size rear rotors no real need to change to more expensive ones unless yours are worn out.
If not looked into yet then see what the track guys have done on the rears as might need upgraded.
I got the cross drilled and slotted rotors and polymatrix E pads, for street use. I don't plan on tracking it right now as it's my daily but in the near-ish future when I get another daily this car will be tracked and my plan is to have a separate set of rotors and pads for that (my plan is spec 37 and BP40 pads). I had cross drilled rotors in the past on a street driven car and they held up fine, but I am aware that if driven hard they can crack. I already ordered 3 bottles of the motul 600, but I can always switch out for something better in the future. I think the stock rear brakes are fine for now, the pads are still showing some life. When it's time I'll probably turn the rotors and get some hawk pads. What do the track guys do for the rears?
 


OP
GateCityRadio
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Thread Starter #8
Update: Ended up contacting 2J racing and changed my order to blank rotors. Save some money and prevent some potential headaches in the future.
 




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