Terribly sorry no pics, having a tough time with hosting right now, most are on my phone and cannot get them to load, using my camera now so will get some up as soon as I have a bit of time. This is not a hard mod, does not take a ton of time but then again that can be considered quite different for some, I love modding, used to put in 8 hours at least a day after my job when I was still working.
Air inlet side.
I was working on the under under tray I added to the spliter I am using with open area in the middle that goes into the area where the stock rubber air dam used to be. This made a nice place to tap into so I sealed it up, added some 2" ABS tubing outlets, had it all sorted out but did not want to install the under tray yet due to a ton of recent mods I need to do test runs to ensure no leaks, etc.....I was installing the stock rubber air damn for now and realized I could just cut some ABS sheet to fit and then had really good inlets for when not running the under tray. It took less than an hour and less than $2 worth of ABS sheet.
You do not need a splitter, undertray, etc to create some great cheap air inlets just trap some of the air that hits the stock rubber air damn as it goes off to the side of the car. When I get some pics up you will see it is a pretty simple and low cost way to do this, just takes a little time, you can do it and not even pull the bumper cover off.
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You can tailor the rotor side to fit your rotors, etc...what I am doing is using 2" copper tubing and some sheet as can solder that easily enough, my welder is in storage, I will make new ones when I have access to my tools. The copper tube will fit through a plate mounted to the stock backing plate mount locations, no need to try to make it cover the whole back of the rotor opening as the WW BBK top hats have big holes between the mounts to the rotor so most of the air would just blow out and do little good. I decided to make the tubing go into the backs of the rotor opening as far as possible, seal up the ends and then open up the side, add some flanges, blow all the air towards the fins inside the rotors which are designed to pull air through.
By doing it this way it will maximize the cooling effect and balance it out from front to rear face of the rotor which is far better than most brake duct setups which can result in uneven heating the rotor areas, not a good thing.
I will also add a port to blow air onto the wheel bearings, have not figured that out yet but it should be pretty simple to make.
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I ordered some 2" brake duct hose, 6 ft, 4 was enough but they sold either 3 or 6' lengths, $58.99
1' copper 2" tubing, $15
Copper sheet, $8
Good hose clamps, $8
2" ABS pipe, 2 ft, $3 (1.2 ft would be enough)
Pop rivets, adhesive, $4
ABS sheet, $1
Total $100 or so, if I still had my shop I would of used aluminum for the tubing, total cost would of dropped to around $80.
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NOTES:
2" hose, tubing etc due to 3" I had on hand was simple to large to use as effectively, this setup will have a lot of air pressure to speed up the flow and more than enough air going directly into the middle of the rotors, it will be more effective than any other brake cooling I have ever bought.
When not needed some foam insulation can be pressed into the opening, pulled out when needed, barely weighs anything and cheap.
Air inlet side.
I was working on the under under tray I added to the spliter I am using with open area in the middle that goes into the area where the stock rubber air dam used to be. This made a nice place to tap into so I sealed it up, added some 2" ABS tubing outlets, had it all sorted out but did not want to install the under tray yet due to a ton of recent mods I need to do test runs to ensure no leaks, etc.....I was installing the stock rubber air damn for now and realized I could just cut some ABS sheet to fit and then had really good inlets for when not running the under tray. It took less than an hour and less than $2 worth of ABS sheet.
You do not need a splitter, undertray, etc to create some great cheap air inlets just trap some of the air that hits the stock rubber air damn as it goes off to the side of the car. When I get some pics up you will see it is a pretty simple and low cost way to do this, just takes a little time, you can do it and not even pull the bumper cover off.
-----------------
You can tailor the rotor side to fit your rotors, etc...what I am doing is using 2" copper tubing and some sheet as can solder that easily enough, my welder is in storage, I will make new ones when I have access to my tools. The copper tube will fit through a plate mounted to the stock backing plate mount locations, no need to try to make it cover the whole back of the rotor opening as the WW BBK top hats have big holes between the mounts to the rotor so most of the air would just blow out and do little good. I decided to make the tubing go into the backs of the rotor opening as far as possible, seal up the ends and then open up the side, add some flanges, blow all the air towards the fins inside the rotors which are designed to pull air through.
By doing it this way it will maximize the cooling effect and balance it out from front to rear face of the rotor which is far better than most brake duct setups which can result in uneven heating the rotor areas, not a good thing.
I will also add a port to blow air onto the wheel bearings, have not figured that out yet but it should be pretty simple to make.
----------------
I ordered some 2" brake duct hose, 6 ft, 4 was enough but they sold either 3 or 6' lengths, $58.99
1' copper 2" tubing, $15
Copper sheet, $8
Good hose clamps, $8
2" ABS pipe, 2 ft, $3 (1.2 ft would be enough)
Pop rivets, adhesive, $4
ABS sheet, $1
Total $100 or so, if I still had my shop I would of used aluminum for the tubing, total cost would of dropped to around $80.
--------------
NOTES:
2" hose, tubing etc due to 3" I had on hand was simple to large to use as effectively, this setup will have a lot of air pressure to speed up the flow and more than enough air going directly into the middle of the rotors, it will be more effective than any other brake cooling I have ever bought.
When not needed some foam insulation can be pressed into the opening, pulled out when needed, barely weighs anything and cheap.
