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Accel Junky's Magnetic Build Thread
- Thread starter Accel Junky
- Start date
Thread Starter
#142
My kids are fully grown with rides of their own now, so a back seat/belts delete will be done right away, as well as a cargo cover and rear seat floor mat delete.
In this area, I am a little wary of doing without a spare and jack, especially once I have very sticky summer tires on it, but I would be willing to spend the coin on an alloy wheel wrapped in the lightest tire I can find that will fit in the well.![[wink]](/images/smilies/wink.gif "Wink [wink]")
I will eventually have a carbon hood, much lighter seats, and a lighter battery in this thing, but I AM happy that I am starting off with the very lightest, 'stripped' FiST possible to begin with.![[:)]](/images/smilies/smile.png "Smile [:)]")
In this area, I am a little wary of doing without a spare and jack, especially once I have very sticky summer tires on it, but I would be willing to spend the coin on an alloy wheel wrapped in the lightest tire I can find that will fit in the well.
I will eventually have a carbon hood, much lighter seats, and a lighter battery in this thing, but I AM happy that I am starting off with the very lightest, 'stripped' FiST possible to begin with.
Thanks! Will do.
Everything looks really good so far; you have good taste. I think you can get to your goal without spending anymore money. You just have to be creative, and a little crazy 
![[twothumb]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_twothumbs.gif "Two Thumbs [twothumb]"){kind=icon}
Thread Starter
#143
Some updates:
1. Wilwoods are on and I have broken them in with 10 60-0 stops followed by some highway speed cooling. I ran more Motul 600 through. It took a good 3/4 of a bottle to re-bleed after changing to the braided lines.
2. I painted the rear calipers to match the Wilwoods. Just taped off everything, covered up the fenders and suspension and used VHT caliper paint. 4 coats and then 3 hours of drying followed by a 20min drive to heat up the brakes to the 200F or higher. Then overnight to cure.
3. I've ordered forged VMS Racing Al lugs in black, open end. For $40 that'll save about 3/4-1lb of unsprung rotating weight. I've run these before on other (heavier) cars using copper anti-seize and hand torqueing.
The Rota center caps don't fit with the new brakes on the front so I've devised a plan to grind off a little of the axle ends to see if that'll do the trick. Seems like more than enough material to shave 1.5-2mm off before getting to the first thread. If I need to I will Dremel the back of the center cap slightly to gain some more clearance. For now I am running without the center caps in the front.
New photos of the car with the brakes:
At my work you have to make your own spots sometimes or you park in the sun...
1. Wilwoods are on and I have broken them in with 10 60-0 stops followed by some highway speed cooling. I ran more Motul 600 through. It took a good 3/4 of a bottle to re-bleed after changing to the braided lines.
2. I painted the rear calipers to match the Wilwoods. Just taped off everything, covered up the fenders and suspension and used VHT caliper paint. 4 coats and then 3 hours of drying followed by a 20min drive to heat up the brakes to the 200F or higher. Then overnight to cure.
3. I've ordered forged VMS Racing Al lugs in black, open end. For $40 that'll save about 3/4-1lb of unsprung rotating weight. I've run these before on other (heavier) cars using copper anti-seize and hand torqueing.
The Rota center caps don't fit with the new brakes on the front so I've devised a plan to grind off a little of the axle ends to see if that'll do the trick. Seems like more than enough material to shave 1.5-2mm off before getting to the first thread. If I need to I will Dremel the back of the center cap slightly to gain some more clearance. For now I am running without the center caps in the front.
New photos of the car with the brakes:
At my work you have to make your own spots sometimes or you park in the sun...
That car just flat out looks GREAT!
Every pic you post makes me appreciate the color I chose more!
BTW; that VHT caliper paint is really good stuff, MUCH higher heat handling capabilities than the lesser Dupli-Color or other stuff, and it lasts right through the 'salt soup' of our mid-Atlantic winters.
I've even used it on tail pipes/tips and it stands up to the heat.
Every pic you post makes me appreciate the color I chose more!
BTW; that VHT caliper paint is really good stuff, MUCH higher heat handling capabilities than the lesser Dupli-Color or other stuff, and it lasts right through the 'salt soup' of our mid-Atlantic winters.
I've even used it on tail pipes/tips and it stands up to the heat.
Thread Starter
#145
That car just flat out looks GREAT!
Every pic you post makes me appreciate the color I chose more!
BTW; that VHT caliper paint is really good stuff, MUCH higher heat handling capabilities than the lesser Dupli-Color or other stuff, and it lasts right through the 'salt soup' of our mid-Atlantic winters.
I've even used it on tail pipes/tips and it stands up to the heat.
Every pic you post makes me appreciate the color I chose more!
BTW; that VHT caliper paint is really good stuff, MUCH higher heat handling capabilities than the lesser Dupli-Color or other stuff, and it lasts right through the 'salt soup' of our mid-Atlantic winters.
I've even used it on tail pipes/tips and it stands up to the heat.
Thanks
I think I've used the VHT a lonnnnng time ago. Back in my early ricer days. I remember it being very expensive for a "kit" but this stuff was just in a can at Autozone for $8.99...so I'm pretty happy even if I need to re-coat after a few years.
Update:
I did this at the track temporarily, but just decided yesterday to yank the front horizontal plastic grill for good. Saves 0.42 lbs and exposes more of the stock intercooler including the end tanks.
I'm debating on cutting the vertical slats but that is not reversible and I don't know if that will cause any structural weakness to the bumper mouth.
![[thumb]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumb.gif "Thumbs Up [thumb]"){kind=icon}
Thread Starter
#147
Couple of updates:
Forged Al lugs are on. Saved 0.77 lbs of rotating unsprung mass. Cleaned up studs and put generous amounts of anti-sieze on before installing by hand and torquing by hand. I've used these in the past on heavier cars without issue, so I have no worries about the FiST. Broke my Crafstman 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. I guess all the years of loosening lugs with the impact gun took a toll. Thank god for lifetime warranties...
I got the car aligned yesterday. Gave it a good 600 or so miles to let the Swift springs "settle". This is as much negative camber as he could get on the front. I may go lower in the future to help with that but for now at least the toe was fixed. This is more of a street/track hybrid alignment considering how many miles I commute.
Lastly, I ground down the ends of the front axles a few MM to get the front center caps to fit. They are snug enough but still not totally flush. I think because of the hub bore difference and the thinner hats on the Willwoods they just aren't going to seat all the way without further modification to the perimeter tabs on the center caps themselves. Good enough for me for now.
Forged Al lugs are on. Saved 0.77 lbs of rotating unsprung mass. Cleaned up studs and put generous amounts of anti-sieze on before installing by hand and torquing by hand. I've used these in the past on heavier cars without issue, so I have no worries about the FiST. Broke my Crafstman 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. I guess all the years of loosening lugs with the impact gun took a toll. Thank god for lifetime warranties...
I got the car aligned yesterday. Gave it a good 600 or so miles to let the Swift springs "settle". This is as much negative camber as he could get on the front. I may go lower in the future to help with that but for now at least the toe was fixed. This is more of a street/track hybrid alignment considering how many miles I commute.
Lastly, I ground down the ends of the front axles a few MM to get the front center caps to fit. They are snug enough but still not totally flush. I think because of the hub bore difference and the thinner hats on the Willwoods they just aren't going to seat all the way without further modification to the perimeter tabs on the center caps themselves. Good enough for me for now.
Thread Starter
#155
I just finished up the day out here in Utah with the ST Octane Academy.
Very excited to have taken the top lap time in Urban-X.
My only critique for the course would be to do the Urban-X first and then put everyone on the circuit with more open lapping time and point bys (as they would have a better feel for the cars after Urban-X).
Very excited to have taken the top lap time in Urban-X.
My only critique for the course would be to do the Urban-X first and then put everyone on the circuit with more open lapping time and point bys (as they would have a better feel for the cars after Urban-X).
I just finished up the day out here in Utah with the ST Octane Academy.
Very excited to have taken the top lap time in Urban-X.
My only critique for the course would be to do the Urban-X first and then put everyone on the circuit with more open lapping time and point bys (as they would have a better feel for the cars after Urban-X).
Very excited to have taken the top lap time in Urban-X.
My only critique for the course would be to do the Urban-X first and then put everyone on the circuit with more open lapping time and point bys (as they would have a better feel for the cars after Urban-X).
Some updates today:
First, I did the free intake mod using just a utility razor:
Then I worked on my brake duct project. 2 subwoofer port tubes, 8 feet of Nomex brake hosing (11 ft ordered), a few aluminum flanges, and some clamps and zip-ties. I deleted the fog lights and deleted the brake dust shields and hardware. All in, the weight removed was about spot on with the weight of the duct job. About 2.5 pounds out and 2 pounds back in. I'm a little worried about the aluminum flange at the end of the ducting making contact with the CV boots if it moves around or zip-ties break...so I'll have to monitor everything as time goes on. The ducting is pointed at the back of the brake rotor about where the bottom inside edge of the caliper is on each side. Hopefully that will cool both the caliper and the rotor a bit.
First, I did the free intake mod using just a utility razor:
Then I worked on my brake duct project. 2 subwoofer port tubes, 8 feet of Nomex brake hosing (11 ft ordered), a few aluminum flanges, and some clamps and zip-ties. I deleted the fog lights and deleted the brake dust shields and hardware. All in, the weight removed was about spot on with the weight of the duct job. About 2.5 pounds out and 2 pounds back in. I'm a little worried about the aluminum flange at the end of the ducting making contact with the CV boots if it moves around or zip-ties break...so I'll have to monitor everything as time goes on. The ducting is pointed at the back of the brake rotor about where the bottom inside edge of the caliper is on each side. Hopefully that will cool both the caliper and the rotor a bit.
Thread Starter
#158
This is a pretty crappy shot from when my CV boot ripped:
Basically I had an aluminum flange that I put in the end of the hose to keep the end from deforming and to anchor it to the lower control arm so that it breathed on the back of the rotor. Not ideal but better than nothing. The ducts are out at the moment due to the dealer visit but when they go back in I have some clamps now that can be screwed into/bolted onto the lower control arm to hold that flanged end in place instead of the ghetto zip-tying that I used (which worked fine for the last track day anyways).
I'll update the thread with some pics of the revised setup as soon as I get a chance to work on that.
Basically I had an aluminum flange that I put in the end of the hose to keep the end from deforming and to anchor it to the lower control arm so that it breathed on the back of the rotor. Not ideal but better than nothing. The ducts are out at the moment due to the dealer visit but when they go back in I have some clamps now that can be screwed into/bolted onto the lower control arm to hold that flanged end in place instead of the ghetto zip-tying that I used (which worked fine for the last track day anyways).
I'll update the thread with some pics of the revised setup as soon as I get a chance to work on that.
This is a pretty crappy shot from when my CV boot ripped:
Basically I had an aluminum flange that I put in the end of the hose to keep the end from deforming and to anchor it to the lower control arm so that it breathed on the back of the rotor. Not ideal but better than nothing. The ducts are out at the moment due to the dealer visit but when they go back in I have some clamps now that can be screwed into/bolted onto the lower control arm to hold that flanged end in place instead of the ghetto zip-tying that I used (which worked fine for the last track day anyways).
I'll update the thread with some pics of the revised setup as soon as I get a chance to work on that.
Basically I had an aluminum flange that I put in the end of the hose to keep the end from deforming and to anchor it to the lower control arm so that it breathed on the back of the rotor. Not ideal but better than nothing. The ducts are out at the moment due to the dealer visit but when they go back in I have some clamps now that can be screwed into/bolted onto the lower control arm to hold that flanged end in place instead of the ghetto zip-tying that I used (which worked fine for the last track day anyways).
I'll update the thread with some pics of the revised setup as soon as I get a chance to work on that.
Thread Starter
#160
I think these guys have a solution that includes the backing plate: http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/7637-CMB-Brake-Duct-Testing
I may eventually take a holesaw to my backing plates and have a flange welded on to connect the hose directly. What I really like is the F1 solution where they duct air to both sides of the rotor:
I may eventually take a holesaw to my backing plates and have a flange welded on to connect the hose directly. What I really like is the F1 solution where they duct air to both sides of the rotor:
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