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Accel Junky's Magnetic Build Thread

WeTheNorth

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My advice to you would be don't look at psi numbers, a turbo can be just as powerful @24psi vs a car with different mods and same turbo @26

IC would change that for you
Colder air would change that as well. E30 would be even better, power wise. Love anti-lag sounds [emoji7]


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M-Sport fan

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Oh yeah, just banging into the fuel cut there a bit. I find myself doing it on upshifts on the road as it sounds like a rally car anti-lag. Probably not the best thing to do...

I emailed Stratified to see what they thought about a revised tune with the additional mods. I don't think the boost would be any higher as it is already a hair over 26psi.
That's the Strat Flash V3 tune in the video, I'm guessing without the current/latest 'pops and crackles'?
 


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Reno
Read through your whole build thread last night...Bravo Accel! Car looks great and I love the DIY attitude you have. Still looking forward to seeing the hood you ordered, as well as how you go about remedying the wilwood situation (which is total BS, don't market your products as something they're not, especially when peoples lives could be at risk. That's could be grounds for a false advertisement case if they keep that up.). Anyways, looking forward to the next update! Subbed.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #284
My advice to you would be don't look at psi numbers, a turbo can be just as powerful @24psi vs a car with different mods and same turbo @26

IC would change that for you
Colder air would change that as well. E30 would be even better, power wise. Love anti-lag sounds [emoji7]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
True, plus this turbo probably puts out a lot of hot air at higher RPMs without letting the boost come down (compressor efficiency)

That's the Strat Flash V3 tune in the video, I'm guessing without the current/latest 'pops and crackles'?
Yes, Strat tune and without pops and crackles. They did one for me with those but it is just straight back firing on my car so I had to pull over and re-flash. Probably not the best when you are not running a muffler.


Read through your whole build thread last night...Bravo Accel! Car looks great and I love the DIY attitude you have. Still looking forward to seeing the hood you ordered, as well as how you go about remedying the wilwood situation (which is total BS, don't market your products as something they're not, especially when peoples lives could be at risk. That's could be grounds for a false advertisement case if they keep that up.). Anyways, looking forward to the next update! Subbed.

Thanks! I think the DIY stuff is the nature of A) not having enough money to waste paying people and B) general cheap-assedness.

Yeah, very bummed about the Wilwood situation.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #285
My advice to you would be don't look at psi numbers, a turbo can be just as powerful @24psi vs a car with different mods and same turbo @26

IC would change that for you
Colder air would change that as well. E30 would be even better, power wise. Love anti-lag sounds [emoji7]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
True, plus this turbo probably puts out a lot of hot air at higher RPMs without letting the boost come down (compressor efficiency)

That's the Strat Flash V3 tune in the video, I'm guessing without the current/latest 'pops and crackles'?
Yes, Strat tune and without pops and crackles. They did one for me with those but it is just straight back firing on my car so I had to pull over and re-flash. Probably not the best when you are not running a muffler.


Read through your whole build thread last night...Bravo Accel! Car looks great and I love the DIY attitude you have. Still looking forward to seeing the hood you ordered, as well as how you go about remedying the wilwood situation (which is total BS, don't market your products as something they're not, especially when peoples lives could be at risk. That's could be grounds for a false advertisement case if they keep that up.). Anyways, looking forward to the next update! Subbed.

Thanks! I think the DIY stuff is the nature of A) not having enough money to waste paying people and B) general cheap-assedness.

Yeah, very bummed about the Wilwood situation.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #286
Quick update:

I ordered a revised tune from Stratified. Pretty cheap ($25 I think without options) but added the $50 for the log review. So I got the first tune which was based on my new mods (DP, filter, plugs) and loaded it and then did a few logged pulls to send back.

Last night I got the revised tune based on my logs and drove it to work like that today. They've asked me to send more logs to confirm the changes had the intended effects. So far this latest log-based tune feels like it does indeed pull harder up top. Sort of feels like I lost some low end torque which would make sense if they turned down the boost (looks like consistently peaking in the low 25s now and was 26s). I may mention that to see if I can have the best of both. AFRs seem to be solidly in the low to mid elevens. I am kind of thinking 12s would make more power and with direct injection would be safe but perhaps their experience proves otherwise. Overall I think the retune was worth it.

Lastly, even they are seeing the high rise in charge air temps. This one would be a 3rd gear pull as the 4th gear charge temps are more than double with the long time it takes pulling to 7000.

I think the next move I need is to work on a different intercooler if I can figure out which one will keep temps lower but also be suitable for the engine staying cool at track days. Might be a matter of a mish radiator, extra cooling sourec, and then whatever intercooler I want (maybe DHM race) to achieve that.

P.S. Clutch seems to be grabbing pretty high now. I can upshift by barely pressing it in (maybe as little as an inch and a half). Starting to think perhaps the torque is eating the stock clutch. I drive the car hard every day.


 


M-Sport fan

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^^^One of the reasons I did not go right to the DHM Race IC & crash bar is because I want to wait until someone other than Mishi releases an even better yet radiator for these cars, since the Race IC blocks SO MUCH of the radiator.

The other reason is that I do not want even the infinitesimal amount of pressure drop the Race IC will cause on the factory turbo (I do not like the even more minute yet amount that the cp-e IC I have will incur, but that is a trade off I will have to accept, I guess ;) ).

Of course, (in MY book at least) anything larger than a factory micro-snail requires that DHM work of art! [wink]
 


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Thanks! I think the DIY stuff is the nature of A) not having enough money to waste paying people and B) general cheap-assedness.

Yeah, very bummed about the Wilwood situation.
Haha I definitely understand A and B, those are two qualities we share.

Quick update:

I ordered a revised tune from Stratified. Pretty cheap ($25 I think without options) but added the $50 for the log review. So I got the first tune which was based on my new mods (DP, filter, plugs) and loaded it and then did a few logged pulls to send back.

Last night I got the revised tune based on my logs and drove it to work like that today. They've asked me to send more logs to confirm the changes had the intended effects. So far this latest log-based tune feels like it does indeed pull harder up top. Sort of feels like I lost some low end torque which would make sense if they turned down the boost (looks like consistently peaking in the low 25s now and was 26s). I may mention that to see if I can have the best of both. AFRs seem to be solidly in the low to mid elevens. I am kind of thinking 12s would make more power and with direct injection would be safe but perhaps their experience proves otherwise. Overall I think the retune was worth it.

Lastly, even they are seeing the high rise in charge air temps. This one would be a 3rd gear pull as the 4th gear charge temps are more than double with the long time it takes pulling to 7000.

I think the next move I need is to work on a different intercooler if I can figure out which one will keep temps lower but also be suitable for the engine staying cool at track days. Might be a matter of a mish radiator, extra cooling sourec, and then whatever intercooler I want (maybe DHM race) to achieve that.

P.S. Clutch seems to be grabbing pretty high now. I can upshift by barely pressing it in (maybe as little as an inch and a half). Starting to think perhaps the torque is eating the stock clutch. I drive the car hard every day.


I would love to see how you go about the DHM race ic and crash bar, I am in love with it. Also how you go about engine cooling with a new radiator...are you also considering an oil cooler?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #289
Haha I definitely understand A and B, those are two qualities we share.


I would love to see how you go about the DHM race ic and crash bar, I am in love with it. Also how you go about engine cooling with a new radiator...are you also considering an oil cooler?
Definitely considering it. I think I will take a full lap log or two at the next track day (March 12) just to get an idea of how high charge temps are under sustained hard driving. What I'm afraid of is going with the DHM only to find out everything heat soaks on the track anyways in which case I would just suck it up on the max power street pulls for the quick recovery off throttle on the track of the tube/fin Mountune.

Haven't research oil cooler yet. I believe last 2 track days oil temps were OK, it was just water temps on a hot track day (running heat vents helped).
 


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Thread Starter #290
Minor Update:

After sending back the checkup logs from the Stratified log-based retune, they have confirmed everything is looking great and no need for further revisions.

I hit 27psi last night so the boost is up just a hair over pre-downpipe/pre-retune.

My next step is put it on a dyno just to see where I ended up.

Once I have some more time, I have the following upcoming mods on hand:

- Red track decals for rear window (still deciding how I want to lay them out)
- Remainder of exterior LED conversion (reverse lights, rear signals)
 


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Thread Starter #291
I had a little time today to install the new LED reverse bulbs and the LED "only amber when lit" rear turn signal bulbs.

I think everything turned out great. Cheap, good little mods. I have not installed the resistor yet to stop the hyper blink in the signals but frankly if it doesn't hurt anything I'm not in a rush.

The turn signal bulbs are silver plastic but light up amber. This way the orange color isn't bouncing around inside the reflector when they aren't in use. Gives it a more "clear" look (see side by side).



 


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I had a little time today to install the new LED reverse bulbs and the LED "only amber when lit" rear turn signal bulbs.

I think everything turned out great. Cheap, good little mods. I have not installed the resistor yet to stop the hyper blink in the signals but frankly if it doesn't hurt anything I'm not in a rush.

The turn signal bulbs are silver plastic but light up amber. This way the orange color isn't bouncing around inside the reflector when they aren't in use. Gives it a more "clear" look (see side by side).



That's genius!!! Any links for those turn signals?!?!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #293
That's genius!!! Any links for those turn signals?!?!
Sure no prob:

Reverse: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0193ISBUA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Turn signals front and rear: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008J2J52K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(note I did have 1 signal go bad in the front after basically a month, Amazon is sending me a new pack)

They do hyperblink without resistors (I have these but have not installed them so I can't confirm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EDF8HY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
 


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Sure no prob:

Reverse: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0193ISBUA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Turn signals front and rear: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008J2J52K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(note I did have 1 signal go bad in the front after basically a month, Amazon is sending me a new pack)

They do hyperblink without resistors (I have these but have not installed them so I can't confirm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EDF8HY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Thanks you
 


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Awesome build! Pretty much exactly what I want to do with mine (dual track and dd purpose). I really like the DIY brake ducting! Has that effected the daily drivability at all? Caused any problems (sorry if already answered)? Definitely going to look into that for my build!
 


LILIKE16ST

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I learned something...don't trust eBay Chinese sellers claim of "stainless steel"...

The exhaust shop in a nearby town to me who did my work sold me a single 4 inch rolled angle cut tip that was supposed to be stainless according to him. I noticed mine doing the same as yours and we've had our exhausts done a similar amount of time. I got mine done on my 16 probably around July or so. I got a muffler and resonator delete and had him throw that tip on parts and labor was 111 bucks so that isn't too bad. I do plan to go with another catback be it custom or aftermarket probably 2.5 inch I just did the resonator muffler delete for some sound and to do me until I do the catback because it's def not the first mod on my list as far as performance mods or any mods for that matter but I didn't wanna roll around quiet either. I like the sound of it now much much better. It actually sounds pretty good with a straight piped catback if I didn't have a catless downpipe in my future somewhere I may just have them fix up a larger straightpiped catback and diff tip I actually like the sound of it WITH the stock cat still in place I imagine it may be crazy loud and raspy completely straight through from the turbo back. Next time I'll take more time choosing what I buy and where I go lol
 


OP
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Thread Starter #299
Awesome build! Pretty much exactly what I want to do with mine (dual track and dd purpose). I really like the DIY brake ducting! Has that effected the daily drivability at all? Caused any problems (sorry if already answered)? Definitely going to look into that for my build!
Thanks! Ducting has been off the car since I upgraded brakes. I haven't had the time to modify it but I bought some clamps that will bolt to the lower control arm so that I don't have to zip tie it. Hoping to work on re-fitting them soon. No daily issues as long as you keep everything secure and far enough from the CV boot.

Just read the whole thread beginning to end.

Great build!
Thanks! :)


The exhaust shop in a nearby town to me who did my work sold me a single 4 inch rolled angle cut tip that was supposed to be stainless according to him. I noticed mine doing the same as yours and we've had our exhausts done a similar amount of time. I got mine done on my 16 probably around July or so. I got a muffler and resonator delete and had him throw that tip on parts and labor was 111 bucks so that isn't too bad. I do plan to go with another catback be it custom or aftermarket probably 2.5 inch I just did the resonator muffler delete for some sound and to do me until I do the catback because it's def not the first mod on my list as far as performance mods or any mods for that matter but I didn't wanna roll around quiet either. I like the sound of it now much much better. It actually sounds pretty good with a straight piped catback if I didn't have a catless downpipe in my future somewhere I may just have them fix up a larger straightpiped catback and diff tip I actually like the sound of it WITH the stock cat still in place I imagine it may be crazy loud and raspy completely straight through from the turbo back. Next time I'll take more time choosing what I buy and where I go lol
Yeah, pretty odd. Maybe the shop got duped on the material as well. Honestly my car now has only the stock resonator, nothing else aside from the turbo itself in the exhaust stream. And from what I've heard of resonator-only deletes, I doubt it does much so I may delete that and report back on the complete straight pipe sound levels.
 


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Thread Starter #300
Finally an update!

Had to make a move on brakes as my first track day of the season is approaching (March, Atlanta Motorsports Park).

Wilwood offered to sell me new brakes at a discount but would not warranty or replace my kit. After much deliberation I decided partly on principle and partly on peace-of-mind to order a new brake kit from a different maker.

So I've got a StopTech kit on the way (slotted, non-zinc-coated). I will be listing my Wilwood kit in the classifieds soon in case anyone wants a kit they can get on the cheap and refurb. It'll need 1 or 2 new pistons and the rotors will either need to be turned or the rotor rings replaced.

I heavily considered the Rotora kit that Noodles worked on but ended up getting a mil discount on the StopTech kit that made the pricing gap big enough to not ignore.

 


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