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Winter 1 Exhaust 0

Messages
374
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78
Location
Ramstein
#1
So my beautiful expensive Cobb exhaust is getting absolutely destroyed. It's been about a month since they started salting the roads for winter and it's done a number on my exhaust tips. I would say about half of the surface is covered in corrosion. I wash my car weekly but I was wondering if anyone in a cold climate has any suggestions? Or if anyone else has had similar problems?
 


AzNightmare

Senior Member
Messages
807
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304
Location
Iqaluit
#4
Ouch. I haven't even checked my COBB exhaust. I know it's all dull and dusty looking, but so is the entire back of my car. I was expecting to wash my car eventually when the weather gets better and I assumed the exhaust would be fine???
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
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Location
Princeton, N.J.
#5
IF the Cobb system is completely austenitic 304 stainless steel, (which I do believe it IS?), then there should be NO problems whatsoever of permanent corrosion damage, or even of the salt soup staining the polished tips for that matter, no matter HOW bad the state/local DOTs pile on the trillions of tons of salt. [wink]
 


OP
A
Messages
374
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78
Location
Ramstein
Thread Starter #7
IF the Cobb system is completely austenitic 304 stainless steel, (which I do believe it IS?), then there should be NO problems whatsoever of permanent corrosion damage, or even of the salt soup staining the polished tips for that matter, no matter HOW bad the state/local DOTs pile on the trillions of tons of salt. [wink]
I washed the car again yesterday and it wasn't as bad as it had looked. But if I can figure out how to post pictures from my iphone I'll post it.
 


Messages
528
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123
Location
JeffCo
#10
Has anyone considered painting the exhaust? I know we're talking about the tips here, but what about using high-temp engine paint on the piping to give it a little more "protection"? I live in the mid-west "rust belt" and these things are always in the back of my mind...
 


Messages
315
Likes
87
Location
Weymouth
#11
Has anyone considered painting the exhaust? I know we're talking about the tips here, but what about using high-temp engine paint on the piping to give it a little more "protection"? I live in the mid-west "rust belt" and these things are always in the back of my mind...
The problem with that is you will have to scuff up your tips for the paint to stick. It will work, but if you change your mind it will take a a bit of effort to get the shine back.
 


Messages
528
Likes
123
Location
JeffCo
#12
The problem with that is you will have to scuff up your tips for the paint to stick. It will work, but if you change your mind it will take a a bit of effort to get the shine back.
Yeah, I meant the piping. The tips are the part that's seen, so something else would need to be figured out with that so they stay shiny - or they can be unbolted and replaced just as easily. But what about painting the piping and the muffler/resonator, especially on an aluminized kit? (I should probably start another thread on this instead of hijacking... yet here we are [deviltail])
 


Messages
316
Likes
84
Location
AncaSTer, Ontario
#13
Working at a Stainless Steel Distributor, we used "CLR" to clean/polish large amounts of stainless.

Stainless isn't rust-proof, it's rust/stain resistant; you need to keep it clean so it can protect itself.
 


Messages
315
Likes
87
Location
Weymouth
#14
Yeah, I meant the piping. The tips are the part that's seen, so something else would need to be figured out with that so they stay shiny - or they can be unbolted and replaced just as easily. But what about painting the piping and the muffler/resonator, especially on an aluminized kit? (I should probably start another thread on this instead of hijacking... yet here we are [deviltail])
Same deal but with less prep due to the finish (unless it's a fully polished system).
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
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Location
Princeton, N.J.
#16
Working at a Stainless Steel Distributor, we used "CLR" to clean/polish large amounts of stainless.

Stainless isn't rust-proof, it's rust/stain resistant; you need to keep it clean so it can protect itself.
EVEN the 300 level, 'austenitic' grades (304, 321, etc.)?? [dunno]
 


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316
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84
Location
AncaSTer, Ontario
#17
The element that defines stainless is Chromium. Anything over 9% chromium is considered Stainless. The chromium combines with oxygen from the air to form a chromium-oxide coating, giving it its corrosion resistant property. If you cut off its access to oxygen from the air, it will rust (iron being the main element). If you leave grease on a barbeque, it will end up rusting underneath.

Handy hint- if you are wondering if your stainless is a 3 series (austenitic), try a magnet on it; 3 series are non-magnetic.
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
13,967
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6,665
Location
Princeton, N.J.
#18
The element that defines stainless is Chromium. Anything over 9% chromium is considered Stainless. The chromium combines with oxygen from the air to form a chromium-oxide coating, giving it its corrosion resistant property. If you cut off its access to oxygen from the air, it will rust (iron being the main element). If you leave grease on a barbeque, it will end up rusting underneath.

Handy hint- if you are wondering if your stainless is a 3 series (austenitic), try a magnet on it; 3 series are non-magnetic.
THANK YOU for that explanation! [thumb]

I already knew about the magnet test thing, though. [wink]
 


Quisp

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,118
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402
Location
Davenport
#19
Working at a Stainless Steel Distributor, we used "CLR" to clean/polish large amounts of stainless.

Stainless isn't rust-proof, it's rust/stain resistant; you need to keep it clean so it can protect itself.
I use Kaboom bathroom cleaner on my motorcycle stainless exhaust.
 


Messages
40
Likes
8
Location
North Wales
#20
I used to get exhaust tips PVD coated. It ended up being a gloss black finish. Holds up very well to the point I held a torch to it for a few minutes, direct flame on it, and no effect on coating. Even after years of DD use it was fine.
 


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