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Best way to reduce the "bounciness" during highway driving.

neeqness

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#41
I think the biggest complaint is more like oscillation and that it is mostly from the rear. Not really sure though. The springs alone took care of the oscillation however dampers are needed for really bad roads.

I ran a setup with koni str.t on just the rear, stock dampers on the front and progressive springs all around that I really liked. This helped because the str.t dampers (with progressive springs) on the front caused a floaty feeling and significantly reduced turn-in. However the yellows could probably be adjusted for that.

But I know that you seem to prefer linear springs, so I'm not sure how that would translate to your preferred application.
 


OffTheWall503

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#42
Not sure if it's related to the struts, but I did notice that on stock springs/struts the rear end would get squirly during hard braking. I installed H&R Sport lowering springs and now the rear end stays straight.
 


M-Sport fan

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#43
I think the biggest complaint is more like oscillation and that it is mostly from the rear. Not really sure though. The springs alone took care of the oscillation however dampers are needed for really bad roads.

I ran a setup with koni str.t on just the rear, stock dampers on the front and progressive springs all around that I really liked. This helped because the str.t dampers (with progressive springs) on the front caused a floaty feeling and significantly reduced turn-in. However the yellows could probably be adjusted for that.

But I know that you seem to prefer linear springs, so I'm not sure how that would translate to your preferred application.

Yes, if I did not go coil over conversion in the front, or weight jackers with small diameter springs in the back, I would just use the Swift 'factory location/mount', but lower, replacement LINEAR rate springs.

If I did go to a small diameter coil over type setup, I would use either Swift, Hyperco, or maybe Eibach linear rate 2.5"s (I believe this is the only way they are made in the coil over diameters?), but possibly with a 'tender/helper' spring setup.
 


GAbOS

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#44
Thanks for all the great info everyone! I really enjoy informative threads like this.

I would like to stay at OE ride height so that means sticking with the OE springs, which isn't a terrible idea for me. This is my daily car. I wonder which dampers currently available would be the best match for the OE springs.

As a side note; If I ever were to do a coil over swap, I would want a setup that would allow me to raise the car as well from OE heights. I would prefer to go with a rally look on the car. Just something I've always wanted to play with. There's a few guys around were I live that have rally inspired looks and I really like it.
 


M-Sport fan

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#45
^^^What many forget is that even for the fully TARMAC rally rounds, the WRC cars are almost NEVER 'slammed' to a very low ride height, and usually still have much wheel travel, due to most public roads not being anywhere near as smooth as most road courses (albeit, yes, a good deal less wheel travel than for the rough gravel/rocky rally rounds). [wink]
 


RAAMaudio

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#46
I have driven hundreds of thousands of miles on lowered cars and never slammed one because I built them to handle first and foremost and to be actually usable in most all situations.

Likely 99.99 percent of slammed cars have some very serious handling degradation because the geometry is all screwed up.

There is a reason those Tarmac cars are not slammed and one as mentioned is real world roads they are used on.

Road race cars operate on a much smoother surface, except maybe Seebring, and can run lowered far more but also the geometry is optimized for such ride heights, if not they do not win.
 


RAAMaudio

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#48
If I end up keeping the FiST I will keep the BC coilovers and see how high it can go for the winter and if enough travel(could have to order some taller springs to increase the travel as long as the dampers can work with them) put some tall narrower grippy tires on light weight strong 15" wheels and have a ton of fun like I did with the first 1zz turbo matrix in the world:) For now the car has made around 120 tuning runs, two track days and only 2 or 3 hard launches, very babied for a $50k project with now just 11,500 miles on it. If I keep it I will wear it out sooner than later, my cars are to DRIVE and that means air time:):):)
 


neeqness

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#49
If I end up keeping the FiST I will keep the BC coilovers and see how high it can go for the winter and if enough travel(could have to order some taller springs to increase the travel as long as the dampers can work with them) put some tall narrower grippy tires on light weight strong 15" wheels and have a ton of fun like I did with the first 1zz turbo matrix in the world:) For now the car has made around 120 tuning runs, two track days and only 2 or 3 hard launches, very babied for a $50k project with now just 11,500 miles on it. If I keep it I will wear it out sooner than later, my cars are to DRIVE and that means air time:):):)
What tall tires would you recommend for the 15" in this application?
 


RAAMaudio

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#50
For rally type use I would run the tallest tire that fits but also keeps the gear ratio I would get the best use out of for the intended purpose, to tall or two short can make a significant difference and effect like where the turbo spools, speeds you want to come out of corners at, etc.....it can be a bit complicated. In general the taller the better, more sidewall to take impacts, roll over bumps better, etc.

It was more so when I was setting up bicycles for racing but I could really dial it in, relatively cheap to have custom cogs made, etc, way back when I had the only 14 speed road race bike around, very tall downhill gear so I could pedal away from everybody but I had to be in damn good shape to use it and then stay ahead the rest of the race.
 


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