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Group Buy: cp-e intake Ram Air Box GROUP BUY with custom color options

Trader history for ron@whoosh (1)

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my apologies gents
both the DIY (which I will offer in kit form with a check valve like MisSTrouble's) or the cp-e PNP is plug and play
the only step of the process that comes close to cutting anything is removing the plastic line that runs from the "T" fitting of the evap line. From the factory this line is hard plastic that is heated then slid on to the barbed T fitting to seal. You have to heat this plastic line with a heat gun to remove it without cutting no matter what harness you buy. Be it the MAP, cp-e, DIY, etc etc etc.

Even "if" you have to cut a teeny tiny little slit in the plastic to get the hard plastic off the T fitting, there is enough line length that you can cleanly cut off that slit evenly so when reverting back to stock you can use a heat gun to slide the plastic OEM line on the T fitting.
It's not bad at all everyone.
I can make a quick video if need be.
THANK YOU Ron for clarifying that!! [thumb]
 


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ron@whoosh

ron@whoosh

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Thread Starter #224
while mishimotos adapter isnt proven yet, it is a no cut solution (when they make it work) right?
I'm not sure what you are driving at
You don't have to cut anything with any of the solutions that I'm aware of
Unless you are equating pulling off a hose with cutting
 


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ron@whoosh

ron@whoosh

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Thread Starter #225
we have plenty of orders!

wrapping this up TODAY!!!!

jump in while you can
there will be NO late orders accepted
 


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I'm not sure what you are driving at
You don't have to cut anything with any of the solutions that I'm aware of
Unless you are equating pulling off a hose with cutting
I'm just being lazy and want it fully plug and play (without the use of a heat gun and all the fun stuff). lol

I like the DIY solution so far, it looks cleaner than the other solutions.
 


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ron@whoosh

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Thread Starter #228
I'm just being lazy and want it fully plug and play (without the use of a heat gun and all the fun stuff). lol

I like the DIY solution so far, it looks cleaner than the other solutions.
gotcha
so far so good - no code
and it does look good....
 


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ron@whoosh

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Thread Starter #230
OK guys - I'm putting the final list together for cp-e
and this will be locked up in the next few hours....
 


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Was hoping to get more info on CP-E's check valve solution, but figure I'd risk it and put my deposit in since the full 3" should add a little power to my BT.

Currently running the MAP intake without any issues. I may just keep the check valve I already have installed and sell the intake for 14-15 only. Will that affect my order if I do that (ordered '16+)?
 


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ron@whoosh

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Thread Starter #234
Was hoping to get more info on CP-E's check valve solution, but figure I'd risk it and put my deposit in since the full 3" should add a little power to my BT.

Currently running the MAP intake without any issues. I may just keep the check valve I already have installed and sell the intake for 14-15 only. Will that affect my order if I do that (ordered '16+)?
nope
when it comes time to pay your balance you'll be able to add the cp-e harness "or"
purchase one of my kits (or none)

I know a guy a UPR, so I have a bunch of black UPR check valves on the way, and some quick connectors
so you or anyone will have the option to buy a 2016+ "fix" kit to run with the cp-e intake or any intake on their car right off my site as a separate "fix it kit"

thanks to MisSTrouble and TuxBlack15[cheerleader]
 


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If you have both the UPR Valve and Boomba Valve, can you do a comparison? I'd like to know the difference between the two valves...
 


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ron@whoosh

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Thread Starter #238
that's a wrap

over 30 intakes!


GROUP BUY CLOSED

thanks everyone[twothumb]
 


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If you have both the UPR Valve and Boomba Valve, can you do a comparison? I'd like to know the difference between the two valves...
Both of them are good check valves, and that's what you're mainly looking for. My MAP adapter kept throwing a code. Every time, I'd pull the white plastic check valve out and blow in the direction of flow. The check valve took more force than it's supposed to to open, meaning that it was sticking closed and throwing a code. Each time, I'd pour a little alcohol through the valve and it'd clean out and work like it's supposed to, until it stuck closed again. The valve should open simply from the suction put on it by the intake, and since it was sticking, it'd pop a code. That valve was poorly made and couldn't handle the environment, and would gum up. So I bought the UPR on a whim, just to try it. I figured while I was at it, I might as well eliminate that silly pointless boost leak line that runs from the cold charge pipe, as I'd read about others doing on here. No issues since, and I've put thousands of miles on this combo. However, IF by some chance you throw a P144C code, all you have to do is reset KAM (Keep Alive Memory) in your Cobb AP, and the code will go away. Then you need to probably clean your check valve, cuz I guarantee it's sticking closed, causing the code to pop up. I'd experiment further, but since mine doesn't pop codes, I don't really see a need to. Hope this helps a little.
 


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