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Intake and exhaust real world performance. Let's get to the nitty gritty

OffTheWall503

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#21
I can do the ethanol research but is this just something that's fairly common? I don't feel like I see any ethanol anywhere down here?
Yes, lots of people run E30 tunes. It provides some of the best bang for the buck and provides a significant increase in torque (when you're talking about stock turbo).
 


OP
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Thread Starter #22
I'm about to go ride around and see if I can find this magic fuel. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places! It's worth the pro tune if I can find it easily. But what if I'm on an e30 map but have no where to fill?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #23
Yes, lots of people run E30 tunes. It provides some of the best bang for the buck and provides a significant increase in torque (when you're talking about stock turbo).

I just googled it. There is like 9 in my state That carry e85.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #25
Ethanol is a great fuel. That dyno I posted was on 93, so you could still get 200/300.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wonder what the max that be cranked out all stock with a pro tune. Interesting thought.
 


Siestarider

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#26
I have installed, logged, and removed enough parts over the past 3 years to believe, in no particular order:
1. The only hard part worth installing for hp on stock turbo is better I/C. It does not add hp, just subtracts less when intake air is hot.
2. An AP is necessary if you are serious about more hp and knowing how your tune/parts are behaving.
3. Stock ECU will adjust to more octane and produce more hp with octane upgrades. But it will not adjust to hard parts that in the old days would add hp, only tunes can do that.

At one point I had Mountune air box, 2J dp, MBRP 3" and Cobb IC all installed and no hp improvement over stock on stock tune.

Spent a lot of money to learn these basics.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #27
I have installed, logged, and removed enough parts over the past 3 years to believe, in no particular order:
1. The only hard part worth installing for hp on stock turbo is better I/C. It does not add hp, just subtracts less when intake air is hot.
2. An AP is necessary if you are serious about more hp and knowing how your tune/parts are behaving.
3. Stock ECU will adjust to more octane and produce more hp with octane upgrades. But it will not adjust to hard parts that in the old days would add hp, only tunes can do that.

At one point I had Mountune air box, 2J dp, MBRP 3" and Cobb IC all installed and no hp improvement over stock on stock tune.

Spent a lot of money to learn these basics.

Well said.

I've got one guy saying deadhook for the I/c. Any others to consider?
 


Siestarider

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#28
Well said.

I've got one guy saying deadhook for the I/c. Any others to consider?
I decided I should stay on stock front beam because I live in Florida where drivers are worst in nation. Plus I am a little wild on track. So its more possible I will encounter a front end accident than most of us. That cuts out the DHM I/C for me.

I am running Cobb I/C. But I am also still running stock radiator and trying to get more heat exchanger cooling via other methods. Of the I/C's that mount to stock location, Cobb is light and large. Hard to say what is really best for stock mounting, there are lots of opinions and a dearth of data.
 


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Thread Starter #29
I was kind of curious about the quality of the competitors. All relatively cost close to the same.

By replacing the intercooler, I'm gonna ditch that lame heat soak right?
 


M-Sport fan

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#30
In terms of a downpipe, I do have thoughts on that.....I researched this extensively, comparing various dyno graphs, and came to the conclusion that (qualifier: with a stock turbo) a DP upgrade adds a bit of power in the lower rpm band but actually steals a bit in the higher. Since the car has more than enough power down low and needs power up high, why add a piece of hardware that takes what you need and gives what you don't? Go catless and you get a few HP more but the smell and cancerous air aren't worth it IMHO.

For that reason I promptly sold my yet-to-be-installed catted DP to a guy going big turbo.

+1 [thumb]

The cp-e catback takes care of my 'sound ONLY' needs all TOO well, thank you, so the DP is a total waste for me until/unless I go hybrid/BT.
I do not care for either intake, turbo spool, OR BPV noise at all, so again, unless/until I go hybrid/BT, an aftermarket intake is a total waste as well.

And YES, even IF/WHEN I ever do go to that hybrid/BT kit, I WILL give up those couple of ponies and use a metal matrix catcon DP, instead of going catless and putting up with the nauseating stench, and causing filthy air on my part.
 


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#31
This may be the best thread I've seen since I got here. Thanks, all!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #32
This may be the best thread I've seen since I got here. Thanks, all!
I've been around cars long enough to know what to ask and what to skip. Sometimes you just gotta get that confirmation.

Can't go by the box parts come in. If that were the case we would all have 300hp cars that had cold air intakes and catbacks
 


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#36
I've read that CP-E's intercooler is the best (stock placement) intercooler... not sure if its marketing hype or not, but that is what I got, not installed yet.

Cobb and Depo racing seems to be identical, so probably can save a nice coin going that route...

anything is better than stock, and relatively marginal difference between aftermarket intercoolers (except DHM race... thats... some serious intercooler)

all my other mods that will be going in (hard pipes, intake, maybe tbe, is just in case... for maybe hybrid/bt... if not, I guess I can brag about the parts with fancy stage words.)
 


OP
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Thread Starter #37
I've read that CP-E's intercooler is the best (stock placement) intercooler... not sure if its marketing hype or not, but that is what I got, not installed yet.

Cobb and Depo racing seems to be identical, so probably can save a nice coin going that route...

anything is better than stock, and relatively marginal difference between aftermarket intercoolers (except DHM race... thats... some serious intercooler)

all my other mods that will be going in (hard pipes, intake, maybe tbe, is just in case... for maybe hybrid/bt... if not, I guess I can brag about the parts with fancy stage words.)

Yeah, I looked at the Depo. Only thing I heard people say bad is the origin. I like DHM stuff, but Depo is fitting the wallet. I believe my process will be a drop in filter, motor mount, depo intercooler and depo catless down pipe and be of course the AP3 with a pro tune. If that'll get me 200/300 daily and still be remotely quiet, I am happy as can be. I'll address the rest later.
 


M-Sport fan

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#38
I've read that CP-E's intercooler is the best (stock placement) intercooler... not sure if its marketing hype or not, but that is what I got, not installed yet.

Cobb and Depo racing seems to be identical, so probably can save a nice coin going that route...

anything is better than stock, and relatively marginal difference between aftermarket intercoolers (except DHM race... thats... some serious intercooler)

all my other mods that will be going in (hard pipes, intake, maybe tbe, is just in case... for maybe hybrid/bt... if not, I guess I can brag about the parts with fancy stage words.)
I bought (also yet to be installed) the cp-e IC as well, since it (on PAPER at least) seems to be the highest capacity IC out there which will let you still keep the factory crash bar.

In ANY case it will DEFINITELY handle ANYTHING which ANY tune, or ambient weather condition, can throw at it using the factory nano-snail, so that's was my ONLY concern for now.
Mitch @ cp-e even claims it will cool a decent sized hybrid, or even smaller BT kit as well, so I am NOT worried.

Also, on sales/discounts/group buys/etc. it is not all that much more coin than the Sino-made, 'bargain' ICs out there (but it does weigh a little more if that is a concern).

In any case, I figure I could sell this and go DHM Race IC and crash bar IF/WHEN I ever go to a DHM BT kit, since the car will be totally apart at that time anyway. [wink]
 


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#39
The MAP intercooler is also a decent alternative if you are not looking to pay COBB/CP-E prices. It seems well-made and has basically the same core size as the COBB. Retails for $500, but you may be able to get it from them for less if you reach out directly.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #40
Well, so far on the way is a

-Green filter
-CP-E RMM

Next will be probably in this order:
-Depo intercooler
-Cobb AP3/ CNT catless d/p (partial sponsorship, pending details?)
-Pro Tune

Honestly, I may not keep this car more than a few years. My credit is rebuilding, but I want more power. My kids are getting bigger and I'll be needing more room in 3 years. So I'll be starting with this stuff.

I appreciate all of the advice and input.
 


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