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Spark Plug change question...

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#21
It's not the plug that will get you more power, it's the increased allowable spark advance. I run NGK 3510 (step colder) plugs, and this allows for more boost and timing, thus yielding more power.
Step colder is a known approach, yes, and thanks.

Iridium is the best material to use due to its ability to resist breakdown of the electrode because of hardness. The ignitability also is improved with a larger flame kernel to have a more complete burn. So your blah blah boobly blah blah statement is not valid here.
I didn't consider my comment to be flippant and certainly didn't intend for it to stomp anyone's pet bunny. But if you do want to insist iridium plugs are the "best", there are a few different technologies that are still in question. One would be Denso's TT (twin tip) with smaller electrode, etc.

I was hoping that someone had some research and proof they could point to about the use of spark plugs with all of these variable to arrive at a "best" replacement spark plug for the 1.6 turbo engine in our application.
 


M-Sport fan

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#22
It's not the plug that will get you more power, it's the increased allowable spark advance. I run NGK 3510 (step colder) plugs, and this allows for more boost and timing, thus yielding more power.
For a maxxed out hybrid, or any BT setup, of course, NO doubts!

But, for a completely factory stock turbo/engine with just a tune and the 'standard' given/usual bolt-ons, just HOW MUCH do the colder plugs help, especially IF the car also has to be daily driven/started in very cold ambients? [dunno]

Also, do they (one step colder) help contribute to/exacerbate the DI intake valve build up over the hotter 'standard' heat range plugs? [???:)]

(The above questions are NOT; critiques, challenges, put downs, etc. [nono], they are SERIOUS inquiries because I want to know the FACTS!!!)
 


Quisp

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#23
Colder plugs are the temps the plug maintains through longer heat path. Won't affect carbon building except the plug itself. As long as your not getting misfiring no power gains in the ignition system besides advance/ retard. The factory choice of heat range is to accommodate a wide range of driving styles .
 


neeqness

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#24
Colder plugs are the temps the plug maintains through longer heat path. Won't affect carbon building except the plug itself. As long as your not getting misfiring no power gains in the ignition system besides advance/ retard. The factory choice of heat range is to accommodate a wide range of driving styles .
So would it be generally colder for hard, sporty drivers and warmer for economy?
 


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#25
For a maxxed out hybrid, or any BT setup, of course, NO doubts!

But, for a completely factory stock turbo/engine with just a tune and the 'standard' given/usual bolt-ons, just HOW MUCH do the colder plugs help, especially IF the car also has to be daily driven/started in very cold ambients? [dunno]

Also, do they (one step colder) help contribute to/exacerbate the DI intake valve build up over the hotter 'standard' heat range plugs? [???:)]

(The above questions are NOT; critiques, challenges, put downs, etc. [nono], they are SERIOUS inquiries because I want to know the FACTS!!!)
Unfortunately, I don't have solid data at the moment. However, I do plan to work on this more over the next few months. But I can tell you from my experience on this platform (which isn't much), and on other turbocharged platforms, that the colder plugs do allow for more aggressive timing.

I'm having a problem attaching my latest Virtual Dyno, but I am completely stock except for plugs and a Cobb drop in filter, and am seeing consistent 210-215whp. I plan to get on a real Dyno when the tune is finished.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #27
Step colder is a known approach, yes, and thanks.



I didn't consider my comment to be flippant and certainly didn't intend for it to stomp anyone's pet bunny. But if you do want to insist iridium plugs are the "best", there are a few different technologies that are still in question. One would be Denso's TT (twin tip) with smaller electrode, etc.

I was hoping that someone had some research and proof they could point to about the use of spark plugs with all of these variable to arrive at a "best" replacement spark plug for the 1.6 turbo engine in our application.
I agree on your last point Kazz. Many variables to consider, but in order to arrive at a proper finish. We would have to have the same car, same dyno, mileage log, and about a good week of nothing to do with a few sets of spark plugs. Quite possibly could be the only way to have a "best" result.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #28
Unfortunately, I don't have solid data at the moment. However, I do plan to work on this more over the next few months. But I can tell you from my experience on this platform (which isn't much), and on other turbocharged platforms, that the colder plugs do allow for more aggressive timing.

I'm having a problem attaching my latest Virtual Dyno, but I am completely stock except for plugs and a Cobb drop in filter, and am seeing consistent 210-215whp. I plan to get on a real Dyno when the tune is finished.
Id be very interested to see what your outcome on a Dyno would be! If the potential for the virtual dyno to be accurate would mean Ford left some in the tank at a stock level. But claimed lower numbers like Chevy did with the first Cobalt SS model.
 


M-Sport fan

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#29
I agree on your last point Kazz. Many variables to consider, but in order to arrive at a proper finish. We would have to have the same car, same dyno, mileage log, and about a good week of nothing to do with a few sets of spark plugs. Quite possibly could be the only way to have a "best" result.
Even if the above were done, does anyone really expect there to be a difference shown between new, properly gapped plugs above and beyond dyno variance? [dunno]
 


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#30
Without quantitative proof it's like how big the fish you caught was.
 


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