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'16 Intake problems, small solution to a headache.

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#1
First thing's first, this is my first write up and it probably won't be that great, so don't be too harsh on me ;) Second, this is a review and demonstration of Whoosh Motorsports CEL Fix that [MENTION=5976]ron@whoosh[/MENTION] sells and what I went through. Feel free to chime in!

So I got everything installed today that I've been dieing to put in since monday....and man was it a pain. My mistake: Ordering a injen intake that was advertised to be for 2014-2016....when instead it's only for 2014-2015...stupid ebay. *kicks dirt* Bottom line: Order the right parts for your car! lol Double check ALL fitment from ANY site you order. (I know, duh) I also want to add that his fix is a plug and play with minor modification for the install.
My use was Not used as he intended. Mine was only nuts because of the product I bought wasn't correct fitment and furthered my problems.

(This will be fairly thorough of the process I went through so be prepared for a long one!)

On to business! So I received everything around monday, but just didn't have time to put everything together. Today, I decided to take off and tackle it since there wasn't much of anything to do at work. So I began taking off the stock intake and air box and knew I was going to have a handful with getting everything just right. The installation process of the CAI was simple, no need to note it since this is about Whoosh's product and not theirs.

Anyway, everything is high quality, from the hose to the check valve to the quick disconnects provided in the little kit he sends. Comes with a line w/UPR, and a block off the the coldside pipe. It was only $44. Inexpensive without a doubt compared to paying almost another $200 for another intake. I already spent $250...right now I just want to get things to work. Here's what it comes with:
whoosh's kit.JPG
You install the block off here:
Where block off goes.JPG

I also had a previous failed attempt at splicing both vacuum lines together and it looked terrible lol:
failed attempt.JPG

So the whole key to all of this is the Check Valve. You have to have a good quality check valve and good connections or you will have a CEL eventually. Is this permanent? Who knows, but I can assure you, it most certainly works. Now I've checked around and know of two manufactures that make a fix for this but ONLY sell it with their intake systems and you can not order it by itself. I heard something about MAP sending some but I don't have their product so I didn't try to talk to them about anything. Anyways, I digress, the problem we have is this T-fitting that goes to a check valve on our factory intakes here:
T-fitting.JPG
Without the check valve, you get a evap code.
By this time I realize that I have a problem with the Injen intake:
PRoblem.JPG

The quick connector is directly above the T-fitting...you can't see from the picture but it's super close. So close infact that there's only enough room for 1/4" of line inbetween it and the UPR check valve.
problem 2.JPG
Sadly, his quick connectors dont fit the injen, only the factory ones do, but his connectors fit everything else no problem at all. Again, my problem I caused on myself. The plastic clips are just a hair too small. Not to mention I had other fitment problems with the intake and another factory connector to where I had to modify the o-rings to a different size from the factory, just so it'll fit correctly. This led me to just use the block off.... I was all for splicing the two together previously. I was already tired of having to remove this, change that, and rinse and repeat. I probably test fitted and checked routing 9-10 different times. Nothing was fitting right or going the way I wanted. I kept on, and realized for now, the block off is the best solution for me, since it doesn't hurt anything, because of my positioning between the T-fitting and the intake connector and lack of extra stuff that I just didn't want to mess with since I didn't have all day.
In the end, I got it fixed up and modified or cut something with both vacuum lines. So if you don't want to do that, don't buy the full injen intake. They have something for the same price but its more like 6 inches of pipe attached to a filter. I also had to switch the connectors out so it would be straight for my purpose of routing. It would just kink no matter what so I grabbed some extra line and a vacuum connector with a up-size on one end and put it all together and made sure it was as free flowing as possible. I added about 10" (highlighted in yellow). Here's what that looked like:
Fixed!.JPG


All in all my headache, was still a headache from being ignorant. However, I am very pleased with Whoosh Motorsports and the product he offers. He clearly states that a proper UPR check valve is a necessity to prevent a CEL or DTC and I highly agree with him after looking into everything. For my situation, it was wonderful to know I wasn't stuck with a $250 brick, so a huge thanks to finding someone who did this. $44 bucks and its free shipping. If you have any issues with a mountune intake, cp-e, Map, mishimoto intake, and you DO NOT have their solutions from their companies or you have something that's compatible with the 2014-2015 and have a 2016 but worried about it being a 100% fitment, check this one out. It works, it's a great option. There are others out there, but this is about his and he was the first one to offer something to me like this without having to pay nearly $400. He has additional months of other testing to confirm, I tested it 100 miles today with no issues. I will update every once in a while if needed for confirmation of no CEL or DTC at all. His kit will work with alot of other intakes...just so happens my intake had a few flaws for my 2016 and I had to do some cutting but it worked out great in the end! I'm sure something could have or may have been done differently but hey, I did all this in a little over a hour for a quick fix so I could get home. If I missed a few things, I'm sure as this goes on, they will be filled in by others.
Also I want to add that I'm not bashing any companies in this post because of any issues, sometimes it takes a few trials and errors to get a product correct. This is simply a really long review of something that works for me and what you need to know about it.

As a side note, to properly remove the stock lines, get a heat gun. You wont need to cut them at all and after you heat the edges, they come off real easy. I only cut some for my specific purposes and I have the means of replacing them if needed back to OEM spec if needed. Thanks for reading!

Links:
https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com/
https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com/collections/s550-mustang/products/2016-fiesta-st-evap-purge-p144c-check-engine-light-fix
 


Last edited:

ron@whoosh

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#3
I just received my fix from whoosh, wasn't sure about how to install it though so thank you for this write up :)
the kit is super simple

The block off cap is installed on the charge pipe - click it on and you're done
The line with the check valve goes from the intake tube (in your case the cp-e intake to the "T" in the evap line
Click the connector to the cp-e intake tube (the check valve arrow faces TOWARD the intake tube)
then slide the rubber end of the hose on the "T" and use the spring clamp to secure
that's it

The OP used my kit as a hybrid of some sort due to his Injen intake - not how the kit is intended
 


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Pittsburgh
#4
Will this work with the MAP intake? Their adapter is giving a CEL

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 


ron@whoosh

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#5
Will this work with the MAP intake? Their adapter is giving a CEL

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
yes your headache is over with my kit

and I have some ready to ship
I'll send you some free decals to stick on the MAP intake (I'm kidding) not really LOL ninja edit
 


Peterson

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#8
Oh man, I didn't have the clip problem like you, but I'm a relative car noob and had no idea how to install the Whoosh fix without your photos. Thanks dude![like]
 


OP
Initial_Will
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Thread Starter #9
[MENTION=5208]SirThomas88[/MENTION] I know this may be late, but Yes. You will probably have problems. The injen intake like this just doesn't fit right. While rons kit works great, the injen full length intake is not made for our cars 2016+. I made mine work with some slight modifications to the factory O-rings on the crankcase vent fitting. However, I had a few problems that were easily addressed. The pictures above is pretty much what to expect with that intake. While yours might not be the same, it'll be close.
 


OP
Initial_Will
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Thread Starter #10
Oh man, I didn't have the clip problem like you, but I'm a relative car noob and had no idea how to install the Whoosh fix without your photos. Thanks dude![like]
No problem! Hope I could help. I had a qc problem I'm guessing with my intake. Nothing went right with this intake. It's more or less a lesson for those who are thinking about it...get the right parts the first time lol glad I could help you! It was my first time typing up something like this so I was having fingers crossed it wasn't too bad. So far, no cels or anything! I've had it on for a few thousand miles. Soon as I have the time, I'm updating a few photos because my install was a little on the quick side. Fitment is better now and much more proper.
 


Peterson

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#11
2 days in and my car posted the check engine light. I went thru and checked all hose clamps and connectors, and everything seems to be in order. The only thing I'm concerned about is the Whoosh fix. I had to cut the hose down because it kept kinking. Even at the shorter length, it seems to be kinking when the car gets heated up and the hose warms up. Can I make this shorter? Also, is the black connector in between the hoses a valve or something? Perhaps I connected it the wrong air flow direction?
 


ron@whoosh

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#12
Similar install because I have the Mishimoto intake pipe?
not as the first post
this kit is easy, install the straight quick connector on the charge pipe (with vacuum cap)
then connect the 90 degree quick connector on your intake + the other end, slide the hose on the "T" fitting on the evap line
that's it!

Ron, today I purchased your adapter kit and I'm picking up my full-length 2014 Injen tomorrow. Am I going to experience the same issue?
the connectors should fit fine
unless there is a thick layer of paint or powder coating on the intake preventing the connector to fit on easily. At which point you'll need to remove the paint so the connector fits easily (don't force it on)

2 days in and my car posted the check engine light. I went thru and checked all hose clamps and connectors, and everything seems to be in order. The only thing I'm concerned about is the Whoosh fix. I had to cut the hose down because it kept kinking. Even at the shorter length, it seems to be kinking when the car gets heated up and the hose warms up. Can I make this shorter? Also, is the black connector in between the hoses a valve or something? Perhaps I connected it the wrong air flow direction?
hose length doesn't matter - trim to whatever length you need. I make them long so you have enough hose for any/all intake types

just make sure the black check valve's flow(white arrow) is toward the intake tube
 


Peterson

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#14
I did it correctly by chance lol.



I'm gonna shorten up the hose more and see if I can get the bends out.
 


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Germantown, MD, USA
#15
I didn't say it before but thanks to OP for posting about your experience with the Injen and Woosh adapter. I installed the Woosh Motorsports adapter onto my Injen intake a few days ago and plan to write up a post to supplement this write up and will cross-link the two threads for readers. Or maybe I'll just write about it all here lol.

Initial_Will, you mention you had to modify an O-ring for fitment. I also had what must be the same issue you had. I believe this tube is the recirculation tube for air coming from the blow-off valve.m (Apparently this is actually the crank case ventilation). I managed to force the connector in. Luckily had a strong friend with me who helped me to squeeze it in. Took a number of tries and wiggling. I could see the o-ring bulging out and not wanting to allow the connection to fit. I was wondering, what did you do to modify the O-ring?

I also had a problem with kinking with the Woosh Motorsports adapter. The hose they use is nice and seems high quality. The problem lies in the angle of the nipple coming off the Injen in relation to the angle of the stock vacuum hose T-fitting. Facing completely different angles. I ended up using three elbow connectors and cutting a few small sections of hose and shortening the Woosh hose to make a fit. It's not pretty to say the least. I hope it's functional, but since I made the change (I first drove a day with the line partially kinked) I'm hearing a fluttering noise when I'm on the throttle about 50-75%. Not sure if it's a vacuum leak, more kinking, or something vibrating around. Going to take another look tomorrow, and try to come up with a better hose fix.

I also had a problem with the Woosh connector to the Injen vacuum nipple. This seems to be a problem with the Injen, as the nipple doesn't extend out far enough to allow the Woosh elbow connector to fit over it far enough to snap down. In fact the previous owner had to grind down the weld to allow additional room for the factory connection. With the Woosh connector, no way I was going to get it to fix without having to cut off plastic from the connector and do more grinding. No problem, I just removed Woosh's elbow connector and fit the hose over it directly and secured it with an o-clamp. Fits well but a little loose, an o-clamp is definitely needed. Maybe this is where my fluttering noise is coming from. Will check the figment tomorrow.

Removing the factory vacuum hose from the factory T-connection to attach the Woosh adapter was a real PITA. The factory hose is hard and inflexible, and as can be seen in OP's photo, bulges over the wide barbs on the t-fitting. I ended up having to slice the hose to get it off. I was really uncomfortable with destroying any of the factory stuff but oh well. I'm wondering if OP had to do the same?

Will post pics tomorrow.


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Deland
#16
Woosh's adapter will not work on a map intake without an elbow. The bend in the line with the check valve will kink as it is too short.
 


XR650R

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#17
Does anyone have pics of the Whoosh adapter fitted to a mountune style intake? I'm still not clear on what goes where or what it's supposed to look like.
 


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Beckley
#19
650R, if you go to my build thread you can see the whoosh kit in the bottom (2) pics. The top hose is connected to the induction tube nipple, and that connects to the T in the line directly below it. Had to trim the silicone back a touch to get the connector to snap into place. The block off connector can be somewhat seen in the second pic, it has the orange/yellowish cap on it.[twothumb]
 


XR650R

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650R, if you go to my build thread you can see the whoosh kit in the bottom (2) pics. The top hose is connected to the induction tube nipple, and that connects to the T in the line directly below it. Had to trim the silicone back a touch to get the connector to snap into place. The block off connector can be somewhat seen in the second pic, it has the orange/yellowish cap on it.[twothumb]
Thanks! [thumb]
 




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