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OxFoRd WhItE FiSt BuIlD

Messages
286
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58
Location
Crystal, MN, USA
#1
Little backstory....

Originally acquired a '14 PB FiSt in 2015 with 18k ish miles. The car was running cobb rm, HFAF, fimc + charge pipes. This was accompanied by the stock intake, except for a Mountune induction pipe. As for the exhaust, it had a Milltek decat & non-resonated cbe. Tuned by Randy @ Mountune. In October 2016, PB was retired/totaled. I was very fortunate to walk away with only 3 fractured vertebrae wings and 5 ribs.
tempRIP_Oct2216.jpg

In the few weeks that followed, I went out and bought another one. Meet '14 OxWhite FiSt with 19k ish miles. This will run a bit of a different setup, as we'll see.
Screenshot_2016-11-17-00-05-39.png


First thing I did was replace the RMM, air filter and the induction pipe. The Mountune induction, rmm and hf air filter was utilized. Replaced the fog lights and the main beam with these H11 LED BULB |30W CREE LED FOG LIGHT BULBS & paired them with these for the low beams, H11 - PHILIPS CRYSTALVISION ULTRA 12362CVS2 BULBS I like the combination.

Detailed:
IMG_3908.jpg IMG_3913.jpg

As time progressed through the winter months, it was time to acquire additional parts [wiggle]. DHM's IC + crash bar, Mountune's charge pipes + symposer delete, Mishi's radiator + hoses. Mountune worked with me diligently, as I wanted to run more of their parts vs. Cobb's. Big shout out to Dan Staup in Sales & Marketing with Mountune. I look forward to working with you and Randy again once I get the car in working order! Interesting to see what differences to the tune with the parts going on OxWhite vs. PB. So here comes a photo binge..

First up, my work space:
IMG_20170217_085900.jpg

Next, the air filter swap:
IMG_20161120_111406.jpg

Next, view of the lovely parts..
IMG_20170216_140118.jpg IMG_20170216_140204.jpg IMG_20170216_140103.jpg

Old vs. New Mountune setup:
IMG_20170217_102100.jpg IMG_20170217_102039.jpg
-----------------------------------
IMG_20170217_105004.jpg IMG_20170217_114516.jpg
IMG_20170217_114540.jpg IMG_20170217_110400.jpg
IMG_20170217_110409.jpg

Next up, I'll just leave these here...
IMG_20170217_124451.jpg

Old radiator vs. new Mishi radiator:
IMG_20170217_125900.jpg IMG_20170217_125850.jpg

Attaching it back up:
IMG_20170217_155248.jpg
IMG_20170217_163036.jpg IMG_20170217_155316.jpg

Oh my!
IMG_20170217_170012.jpg IMG_20170218_102547.jpg

Installed the new radiator hoses and ripped off the symposer. It's a pita to get off. Some sort of adhesive on the tubing.
IMG_20170217_160053.jpg

Put back together:
IMG_20170218_132741.jpg

Recently:
IMG_20170304_165927.jpg
 


Messages
6
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0
Location
Mesa
#3
Great start, man. Sorry for what happened to you and your PB. How was the fitment of the Mishi radiator?
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
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Princeton, N.J.
#4
NICE!!! [thumb]

Just how impossible would it be to get that Mountune/Samco throttle body silicone hose on with the radiator still fully in place? [dunno]

It looks (by those pics) that you did that (and the symposer delete) with NO radiator in place, correct?

I ask because I want to get the Mountune charge hose kit (without their hot side hard pipe), and use it with a cp-e hot side charge pipe. ;)
 


OP
ShadowInDaNight
Messages
286
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58
Location
Crystal, MN, USA
Thread Starter #6
Thank you sir! It's been a long, yet productive winter. [wrenchin]

Great start, man. Sorry for what happened to you and your PB. How was the fitment of the Mishi radiator?
I appreciate it and so am I. Rib injuries def. suck! The Mishi radiator fitment went really smooth, except for a few minor bumps... a) few inserts/tabs needed straightening out and b) the slots which the fan controller module slips into the new shroud, I had to slightly file for the module to slip in. Otherwise, the bleeder screw was already installed, just needed an extra 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Smooth, smooth process. It was definitely easier than I expected. [:0] the AC condenser covers up Mishi's beautiful 'M' on the front of their radiator, so it's amusing Mishi put it on. Enjoyed it prior to installing it [biggrin]

NICE!!! [thumb]

Just how impossible would it be to get that Mountune/Samco throttle body silicone hose on with the radiator still fully in place? [dunno]

It looks (by those pics) that you did that (and the symposer delete) with NO radiator in place, correct?

I ask because I want to get the Mountune charge hose kit (without their hot side hard pipe), and use it with a cp-e hot side charge pipe. ;)
The clamps on those hoses suck royally, not to mention the hoses appear to have some sort of adhesive, making the process a pain in my butt. Yes, I had the entire front end off - disassembled, a/c resting by itself, when I swapped out all the hoses, specifically that section. It's a bit easier process as I had to be all up in there anyhow. It's a tight, nitty gritty area...but not impossible.

Might want to think about better brakes and tires too. Roll cage, Hans device?
[like] SS lines, pads & rotors will be arriving prior to months end. Already have fluid awaiting a brake flush. Roll cage/seats/hans device are on the mind, no question about it. I sort of want to gut the back half of the car too. As for tires, I have fresh re71s on my td 16x7s and will be getting rubber for the td 15x8s, soon after those arrive Friday.
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
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#7
I know what you are talking about with the 'super glue' they put on the symposer hose to cold charge pipe nipple, as I did the FULL symposer hose delete and installed the '$2.99 expander plug' directly into the charge pipe opening, instead of one of the name brand delete plugs which go into the factory hose.

I nearly had to tear the factory hose to get it off of that cold pipe nipple, and to get the spring clamp off of the hose.

Are you saying that the TB factory hose is 'glued' onto the TB flange in the same way??
 


OP
ShadowInDaNight
Messages
286
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58
Location
Crystal, MN, USA
Thread Starter #9
I know what you are talking about with the 'super glue' they put on the symposer hose to cold charge pipe nipple, as I did the FULL symposer hose delete and installed the '$2.99 expander plug' directly into the charge pipe opening, instead of one of the name brand delete plugs which go into the factory hose.

I nearly had to tear the factory hose to get it off of that cold pipe nipple, and to get the spring clamp off of the hose.

Are you saying that the TB factory hose is 'glued' onto the TB flange in the same way??
It was tight and wouldn't budge or slip off from that end. So, I took that whole lower pipe off with the hoses along with it; off tb flange, than disconnected the clamps/hoses. It was a [thumbdown] but was the easiest way for me to get it done without tearing up knuckles.
 


OP
ShadowInDaNight
Messages
286
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Location
Crystal, MN, USA
Thread Starter #11
Added FO-FI-7-ST-CAP1 from Maxton - Spoiler extension CAP. The fit was good. The 3m double sticky wouldn't hold firm so I used Auto Glass Urethane and clamped the pig on. Not too shabby imho.

IMG_20170316_185408.jpg IMG_20170316_185637.jpg
 


Messages
475
Likes
92
Location
Oak Harbor
#16
Glad you're okay, fracturing anything in your back is a scary thing. New Fiesta looks great! You think you'll shave the honey combs of your grill in the back so that crash bar is more visible?
 


OP
ShadowInDaNight
Messages
286
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58
Location
Crystal, MN, USA
Thread Starter #17
Glad you're okay, fracturing anything in your back is a scary thing. New Fiesta looks great! You think you'll shave the honey combs of your grill in the back so that crash bar is more visible?
The days up to about month 2 absolutely was the worst.

Thank you! It's been a steady project that's been picking up steam as I felt better. I shaved a few rows off the honeycombs, little more on the sides. I purposely left a row or two of honeycombs. The photo I took doesn't show it as much but given the proper eye level, it shows.
 


OP
ShadowInDaNight
Messages
286
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58
Location
Crystal, MN, USA
Thread Starter #18
Installed the Maxton Cupra front splitter this weekend. I didn't use the hardware kit that came with it. Opted for a combination of pre-drilling holes, 3M Window Weld(08609) for the sides and 14 rivets. Little overkill but it works & it'll hold.
 


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OP
ShadowInDaNight
Messages
286
Likes
58
Location
Crystal, MN, USA
Thread Starter #19
Milltek non-resonated catback and decat now installed. The maxton's splitter shown(installed earlier).
IMG_20170403_195641.jpg

New parts that have arrived. Hopefully, it won't be too long before I can install this stuff [cheers]
IMG_20170428_191504.jpg IMG_20170512_173424.jpg

IMG_20170512_150818.jpg

glamour shot looking west from the other week.
IMG_20170423_194201.jpg
 


OP
ShadowInDaNight
Messages
286
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Location
Crystal, MN, USA
Thread Starter #20
Little advice for those going with EBC USR slotted rotors, the rears are 10.0 inch dia. USR280 and the fronts are 10.9 inch dia. USR1963. I accidentally ordered the 10.2 inch dia. USR1676 in May and found out the hard way :( - The fronts will be arriving early next week.

Part#: USR280
Product: EBC USR Series Sport Slotted
Position: Rear; Set of Two
Rotor Size: 10.0 in. Dia.
For: (2014 - 2014) FORD FIESTA ST L4 - 1.6L ENGINE VIN: X TURBOCHARGED


Part#: USR1963
Product: EBC USR Series Sport Slotted
Position: Front; Set of Two
Rotor Size: 10.9 in. Dia.
For: (2014 - 2014) FORD FIESTA ST L4 - 1.6L ENGINE VIN: X TURBOCHARGED
 


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