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V8 Engine swap idea

OP
Kinnaird
Messages
200
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36
Location
Seaside
Thread Starter #21
If I may, having done many v8 swaps, There really is just not enough car to make it sound. Look at the link and what had to be done to the car to beef it up. The real to have motor in this car is the 2.3 ecoboost. Weight ratio is about the same as the 1.6 size is just about the same, and more material inside the cylinder walls. Not to mention the size of turbo you could make work with that motor. Your suspension will be ok with that motor, and you will not have to deal with the whole computer thing and potential heat problems. You simply could get you a 2.3 Ecoboost out of the junk yard, and if you wanted new, you are still under 7K. Mounting brackets should be about the same or in the general vicinity and the car would scream. And no weird transmission mounts or conversion kits, The stock transmission would work with the 2.3. Many hear disagree with my assessment of what the body can handle and that is ok. But in my opinion, the 2.3 ecoboost is the must have in this car.
Interesting, thank you for the suggestion I may have to look into that
 


OP
Kinnaird
Messages
200
Likes
36
Location
Seaside
Thread Starter #22
If I may, having done many v8 swaps, There really is just not enough car to make it sound. Look at the link and what had to be done to the car to beef it up. The real to have motor in this car is the 2.3 ecoboost. Weight ratio is about the same as the 1.6 size is just about the same, and more material inside the cylinder walls. Not to mention the size of turbo you could make work with that motor. Your suspension will be ok with that motor, and you will not have to deal with the whole computer thing and potential heat problems. You simply could get you a 2.3 Ecoboost out of the junk yard, and if you wanted new, you are still under 7K. Mounting brackets should be about the same or in the general vicinity and the car would scream. And no weird transmission mounts or conversion kits, The stock transmission would work with the 2.3. Many hear disagree with my assessment of what the body can handle and that is ok. But in my opinion, the 2.3 ecoboost is the must have in this car.
I was thinking about getting the dhm intercooler, if I did switch the motors would I need a new intercooler, or would that one be sufficient because I'd also of course put an upgraded turbo on the 2.3.
 


antarctica24

Active member
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344
Location
O'Fallon, MO, USA
#23
I was thinking about getting the dhm intercooler, if I did switch the motors would I need a new intercooler, or would that one be sufficient because I'd also of course put an upgraded turbo on the 2.3.

Upgrading the radiator really is about keeping the cooling efficient, right? Going from the 1.6 to 2.3 considering they are roughly the same physical size outside, the radiator you have should be sufficient. Where you would need to test is not driving or racing, but potential heat soak when sitting still. In my opinion, there is not enough change between the 1.6 and 2.3 that should cause any problems. Turbo size would not matter.
 


Messages
61
Likes
6
Location
Culpeper, VA, USA
#24
Yes - I know I am grave digging here - but http://www.kugelkomponents.com/focus/focusv8.php . I am sure something similar can be rigged up for our cars but it will be even more money especially if you don't have any fab skills. Also with the short wheel base (even shorter than a foxbody mustang) will prove to be kind of twitchy. I suppose if you want a real sleeper you can always get a MK1 Focus and use kugel's swap setup (the wheel base on the MK1 focus is actually longer than a foxbody).
 


Messages
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20
Location
Mechanicsburg
#25
why on earth would you think about using a ford windsor motor and not an LS? and further more, if you even have to ask about how hard this is, you likely can't do any of the mechanical work yourself. The entire subframe, gone. Nothing but the body of the car is gonna stay. wiring, mounts, brake lines, fuel lines, power steering lines, exhaust, axles, gone. even if you wanna keep it fwd with say an lt4, custom drive shafts, all new suspension everywhere. the car may handle great, it may handle like ass. you are going to be doing a lot of welding, cutting, fabbing, measuring, checking angles. you'll need literally custom every thing. EVERYTHING
 


Messages
61
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6
Location
Culpeper, VA, USA
#26
That is a bolt in kit... if it were up to me I’d rather use a big block chevy. Open the link and read it’s a bolt in kit for Windsor motors and mod motors into a mk1 focus.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 


Messages
99
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20
Location
Mechanicsburg
#27
it's not gonna be a bolt in kit, sorry. just not. and why would you put in an even more unreliable engine than what is already in the car?
 


Messages
61
Likes
6
Location
Culpeper, VA, USA
#28
it's not gonna be a bolt in kit, sorry. just not. and why would you put in an even more unreliable engine than what is already in the car?
OK now you are just an idiot. You can make a ton of power with a windsor blocked ford. I've had several friends back in high school who had 302/351 powered F150's/F250's with well over 200k on the clock without a single issue. Infact one of them still has his OG lightning with well over 300k at this point (100% factory stock longblock) that was just an ignorant internet racer comment. Yes this is a bolt in kit - don't believe me call kugel and take that up with them. Secondly you can bolt in a mod motor - meaning you can bolt in a coyote - meaning you can have an engine that is capable of making well north of 700+whp with nothing more than a blower setup, headers and supporting fuel system. LS's are great and you can probably bolt an LS in using this kit (since the mounts of the mod motor are the same as the LS - just flipped). So stop talking out of your ass. I said big block chevy earlier because you can get a streetable 3000+hp (aftermarket block - but there are people pushing more - look at the hotrod power tour competitors) out of a big block chevy (not doable with an LS). LS's are great, light, compact can power dense. But they are not Jesus in an engine block.
 


Jerickson88

Active member
Messages
720
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204
Location
Rock Creek
#30
It may be a “bolt in” k member and mounts.. I’m sure it wouldn’t take much work to have it sitting under the hood but you may need tunnel mods for the trans, and a way to hang a rear end, probably a shortened 9 Bolt if I had to guess. Driveshafts aren’t hard to have made.

You will have to rearrange steering, maybe?

Probably have to modify the console for shifter location, unless you’re doing an auto with electric or cable actuation.

It’s a lot of work.

I am friends with a guy that built a 4G63 AWD Civic. He made custom mounts, created a tunnel for the driveshaft and used the rear suspension to house the differential
 


Messages
61
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6
Location
Culpeper, VA, USA
#31
It may be a “bolt in” k member and mounts.. I’m sure it wouldn’t take much work to have it sitting under the hood but you may need tunnel mods for the trans, and a way to hang a rear end, probably a shortened 9 Bolt if I had to guess. Driveshafts aren’t hard to have made.

You will have to rearrange steering, maybe?

Probably have to modify the console for shifter location, unless you’re doing an auto with electric or cable actuation.

It’s a lot of work.

I am friends with a guy that built a 4G63 AWD Civic. He made custom mounts, created a tunnel for the driveshaft and used the rear suspension to house the differential
No - i seen one in person back in the early 00's when I was living in FL. This tunnel was factory. Was a white ZX3 running a carb'd 302 and T5 manual trans, it used the foxbody rack IIRC. IIRC the rear had sheet-metal that needed to be cut to clear the rear end. Like I said - ask them. I remember having to modify shifter locations/fab up shifter mount for H22A swaps into civics back in the day - WAS NOT that big of a deal. So yes it may not be B16A swap easy - but yes for the most part its Bolt in. IIRC there was no welding involved with this swap but cutting was required.
 


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99
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20
Location
Mechanicsburg
#33
OK now you are just an idiot. You can make a ton of power with a windsor blocked ford. I've had several friends back in high school who had 302/351 powered F150's/F250's with well over 200k on the clock without a single issue. Infact one of them still has his OG lightning with well over 300k at this point (100% factory stock longblock) that was just an ignorant internet racer comment. Yes this is a bolt in kit - don't believe me call kugel and take that up with them. Secondly you can bolt in a mod motor - meaning you can bolt in a coyote - meaning you can have an engine that is capable of making well north of 700+whp with nothing more than a blower setup, headers and supporting fuel system. LS's are great and you can probably bolt an LS in using this kit (since the mounts of the mod motor are the same as the LS - just flipped). So stop talking out of your ass. I said big block chevy earlier because you can get a streetable 3000+hp (aftermarket block - but there are people pushing more - look at the hotrod power tour competitors) out of a big block chevy (not doable with an LS). LS's are great, light, compact can power dense. But they are not Jesus in an engine block.
reading must not be important for you. I said nothing about power. Not a damn thing. This huge epic rant when you can't even read. Gonna roast you alive on LMM you stupid fuck. And a coyote will not bolt in. Bolt in means you can use some fucking wrenches and turn some bolts. You will be welding a lot, cutting, grinding, etc. Please don't ever comment again without any kind of intelligence like that you fucking disgrace.
 


Messages
61
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6
Location
Culpeper, VA, USA
#34
reading must not be important for you. I said nothing about power. Not a damn thing. This huge epic rant when you can't even read. Gonna roast you alive on LMM you stupid fuck. And a coyote will not bolt in. Bolt in means you can use some fucking wrenches and turn some bolts. You will be welding a lot, cutting, grinding, etc. Please don't ever comment again without any kind of intelligence like that you fucking disgrace.
It bolts in you fucking inept moron. You clearly didn't read anything that was posted.
 


Ford ST

2000 Post Club
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Pleasant Garden
#35
Definitely don't understand the definition of Bolt in. If you have to drill, cut, weld any one of those it's not bolt in. You do have to drill, and cut not bolt in but weld free.
Both of you need to stop acting like name calling children.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 


Messages
61
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6
Location
Culpeper, VA, USA
#36
Definitely don't understand the definition of Bolt in. LS engine is better it just is. If you have to drill, cut, weld any one of those it's not bolt in.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
The engine, transmission bolts in - there is no cutting involved until you get into installing the rear end. Most of what I referred to that jackass about was to his retarded statement about windsor fords being unreliable. Either way no one here is going to approach a project like this (no matter if there is a little rolling up your sleeves involved). I just posted this as an alternative for someone thinking about swapping a Coyote into a Fiesta - and Yes a Coyote will drop in place of 4.6L mounts: https://lmr.com/products/how-to-coyote-swap-new-edge-mustang. - The "Kit" I posted does support 4.6L/Mod motor swaps. You guys can argue with them - they advertise the kit as a bolt in and if cutting is an issue, take it up with them - personally If I wanted to swap a V8 into a FWD vehicle and I had to clearance out space for the rear end - I would not be that sad about it - just consider the monumental task your taking - completely converting a cars drive wheels, entire running gear, e.t.c. The publication I posted quoted 150hr job - thats something like 2 M62 Timing Chain Guide jobs on any E38/E39 BMW.
 


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61
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6
Location
Culpeper, VA, USA
#38
The timing chain takes 75 hours? I would set the car on fire.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
It really is a pain in the ass - and yes shop time is 75hrs (some places charge more because its such a time consuming pain in the ass) http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/876903 - if I had the choice of spending the time doing 2 of these jobs or swapping a V8 in a focus (id rather have a v8 mk1 focus).
 


Jerickson88

Active member
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Location
Rock Creek
#40
The engine, transmission bolts in - there is no cutting involved until you get into installing the rear end. Most of what I referred to that jackass about was to his retarded statement about windsor fords being unreliable. Either way no one here is going to approach a project like this (no matter if there is a little rolling up your sleeves involved). I just posted this as an alternative for someone thinking about swapping a Coyote into a Fiesta - and Yes a Coyote will drop in place of 4.6L mounts: https://lmr.com/products/how-to-coyote-swap-new-edge-mustang. - The "Kit" I posted does support 4.6L/Mod motor swaps. You guys can argue with them - they advertise the kit as a bolt in and if cutting is an issue, take it up with them - personally If I wanted to swap a V8 into a FWD vehicle and I had to clearance out space for the rear end - I would not be that sad about it - just consider the monumental task your taking - completely converting a cars drive wheels, entire running gear, e.t.c. The publication I posted quoted 150hr job - thats something like 2 M62 Timing Chain Guide jobs on any E38/E39 BMW.

So it can bolt in in theory but the rear section takes significant fab work. What about manifolds? The bolt in portion is worthless if you can’t do the fab work.

Shop hours are also when things are considered ideal and no extenuating circumstances. Can’t remember the last time I did a job that was just routine.
 


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