Mountune Fiesta MRX Turbo

[Based]

Factor in at least $500 for that install.

Yeah that's what I'm thinking.

Do I need to buy new gaskets for anything like the manifold or something

 

[antarctica24]

Yeah it helps thank you! I am pretty sure I understand now lol. I'm just going to bring everything to a shop and let them do it lol


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If I may, this install is not complicated. It requires time and patience. If you take your time with it, it's actually a little fun. Also you get a real understanding of what's going on and why everything works like it does. This was my very first turbo install and I would say on a difficulty level between 1 and 10 this is like maybe a 2.5. I would say if you can install the cpe intake you can swap out this turbo. I thought the cpe intake was harder than doing the turbo but that's just me. Damn I though installing the hid system was harder than installing the turbo. The boomba intake spacer is harder to install than this turbo. The only thing that makes the turbo install complicated is getting under the car. Go to harbor freight and get yourself some ramps. Also get some hemostats they are medical clamps for clamping down blood vessels. Their cheap I used them to clamp down the two water lines. If you want to tackle it and learn something and want some help you can call send me a pm and I'll send you my number. This offer is good to anyone who wants assistance with this install. I'm available to answer any questions that I can. This is 100 percent a user installable part.

 

[antarctica24]

Yeah that's what I'm thinking.

Do I need to buy new gaskets for anything like the manifold or something

I would. If your taking it apart, What is 15.00. You dont need 500 if your doing the install yourself.

Take the manifold out, get you some copper anti seize. i would buy replacement studs and nuts, because they get stretched when installed. Thats how they work. install the vband adapter to the manifold, use copper anti seize on everything that has nut. Once the vband adapter is installed. install the turbo to the vband adapter and do it in your lap. and you want to tighten the vband until it wont go anymore, but as you start to run out of threads, go slow. and then just tighten slowly until it wont go any more. Then with the cowl upper and lower off, the entire thing will slip right back into the car, but put it in upside down, manifold first and go it towards the drivers side windsheild wiper. lay the manifold on the cradle. Then install the bottom oil line, and the wastegate vac hose, and the water line that goes on the back of the turbo. You will notice that the two water lines are bent differently, They will only feed one way to what they connect to. Once the oil, water and waste gate vac hose are attached, install your manifold bolts into the block, You will need a reverse torx bit, meaning the bolt goes into the bit, not the other way around. Again dont forget copper anti seize, and tighten until they are snug. Do not break them put gasket on bolts, Then turn the turbo/,manifold around and hang it on the bolts, and finger tighten all the nuts, then go back and tighten until they wont turn anymore, but go slow as you are now stretching the threads to get it to lock down. as you are going slow, you will get to a point where it just wont turn, and then your good. GO SLOW, if you over tighten you could put a bolt right out the block and that would a bad day.

Your welcome to PM me and I will give you my number and I can walk you through the entire install.

I am working on a set of instructions, hopefully I will be finished soon.

 

[antarctica24]

Yeah that's what I'm thinking.

Do I need to buy new gaskets for anything like the manifold or something

I would. If your taking it apart, What is 15.00. You dont need 500 if your doing the install yourself.

Take the manifold out, get you some copper anti seize. i would buy replacement studs and nuts, because they get stretched when installed. Thats how they work. install the vband adapter to the manifold, use copper anti seize on everything that has nut. Once the vband adapter is installed. install the turbo to the vband adapter and do it in your lap. and you want to tighten the vband until it wont go anymore, but as you start to run out of threads, go slow. and then just tighten slowly until it wont go any more. Then with the cowl upper and lower off, the entire thing will slip right back into the car, but put it in upside down, manifold first and go it towards the drivers side windsheild wiper. lay the manifold on the cradle. Then install the bottom oil line, and the wastegate vac hose, and the water line that goes on the back of the turbo. You will notice that the two water lines are bent differently, They will only feed one way to what they connect to. Once the oil, water and waste gate vac hose are attached, install your manifold bolts into the block, You will need a reverse torx bit, meaning the bolt goes into the bit, not the other way around. Again dont forget copper anti seize, and tighten until they are snug. Do not break them put gasket on bolts, Then turn the turbo/,manifold around and hang it on the bolts, and finger tighten all the nuts, then go back and tighten until they wont turn anymore, but go slow as you are now stretching the threads to get it to lock down. as you are going slow, you will get to a point where it just wont turn, and then your good. GO SLOW, if you over tighten you could put a bolt right out the block and that would a bad day.

Your welcome to PM me and I will give you my number and I can walk you through the entire install.

I am working on a set of instructions, hopefully I will be finished soon.

 

[FiestaTexas]

I don't have the dyno runs scanned on my computer right now, but I can tell you the following information from my two dyno runs. My first time on the DynoJet with my car had the Mountune MR230 kit on it. So that was exhaust, intercooler, intake, downpipe, and MR230 canned tune. It did 188 hp and 246 lb/ft. Max torque came at ~2900rpm, and max power came at ~5000 rpm. With the MRX turbo and on the 7th variation of the custom tune the car did 261 hp and 243 lb/ft. Max torque came at ~5500 rpm while max power came at ~5900 rpm. So power curve is very similar, but the torque curve is totally different. I track my car so I spend the majority of my time in the higher rpms so I am perfectly fine with all that high end power and torque.

*The ambient conditions were similar for both sets of info, albeit not identical, and both times it was done on the same dyno by the same technician.

 

[antarctica24]

I don't have the dyno runs scanned on my computer right now, but I can tell you the following information from my two dyno runs. My first time on the DynoJet with my car had the Mountune MR230 kit on it. So that was exhaust, intercooler, intake, downpipe, and MR230 canned tune. It did 188 hp and 246 lb/ft. Max torque came at ~2900rpm, and max power came at ~5000 rpm. With the MRX turbo and on the 7th variation of the custom tune the car did 261 hp and 243 lb/ft. Max torque came at ~5500 rpm while max power came at ~5900 rpm. So power curve is very similar, but the torque curve is totally different. I track my car so I spend the majority of my time in the higher rpms so I am perfectly fine with all that high end power and torque.

*The ambient conditions were similar for both sets of info, albeit not identical, and both times it was done on the same dyno by the same technician.

So what your saying is on a dynojet, your car made more torque on the stock turbo that it did with the mrx turbo? So that means that the vdyno is really off? as it shows my max torque coming in between 4100 and 4200 no 5500. I'm not sure how your making more torque on the your MR230 setup than you are with the MRX. That doesn't make any sense. I am getting mine done on a dynojet this week, so it will be nice to have something to compare to.

 

[Bretley]

Really wanna see more numbers. Being a realistic person, I think Fiesta Texas will have the most similar numbers to expect since we're both down here in Corpus where it's damn near high heat and humidity. Can't wait for the winter to come!

Edit: Speaking for myself in terms of power being relative. Don't wanna light any fires in here. Lol

 

[Bretley]

So what your saying is on a dynojet, your car made more torque on the stock turbo that it did with the mrx turbo? So that means that the vdyno is really off? as it shows my max torque coming in between 4100 and 4200 no 5500. I'm not sure how your making more torque on the your MR230 setup than you are with the MRX. That doesn't make any sense. I am getting mine done on a dynojet this week, so it will be nice to have something to compare to.

Down here in Corpus, it's like a sauna. We're gonna have power loss over most others with this kit. Maybe it's either having a hard time breathing this shitty air, or it could also be our 93 octane. Its also crappy lol.

 

[Based]

Is the lag so bad that the car is weaker than stock until like 4K? The dyno in the first post looks like it's the same power as stock, and then takes off after 3500 or so.

 

[FiestaTexas]

So what your saying is on a dynojet, your car made more torque on the stock turbo that it did with the mrx turbo? So that means that the vdyno is really off? as it shows my max torque coming in between 4100 and 4200 no 5500. I'm not sure how your making more torque on the your MR230 setup than you are with the MRX. That doesn't make any sense. I am getting mine done on a dynojet this week, so it will be nice to have something to compare to.

Yeah its tough to say what accounted for that. Obviously the way the tuner is setting it up could make sense, but I cant say for sure. Having a mountain of torque on 205 street tires is pretty damn pointless anyhow. I spin the tires all the way through second, and coming out turns in 2nd or 3rd on 3/4 throttle or more lights up the inside tire (need that LSD!) Inconsistencies with the dyno are also a very likely culprit. The numbers with the MRX upgrade seem to be about where there should be, where as the MR230 hp numbers should have been significantly higher. Also Bretley the dyno place I used was north of San Antonio, so it was much less humid, but otherwise ambient temperature and altitude it pretty similar.

 

[Bretley]

Is the lag so bad that the car is weaker than stock until like 4K? The dyno in the first post looks like it's the same power as stock, and then takes off after 3500 or so.

Weaker than stock, i doubt it. But with a tune, probably. But even with a Stage 3, that huge TQ is only for a split second. The MRX will hold that TQ all the way plus it looks to be around an estimated 80 more horsepower to with what peoples dyno/vdynos are reporting.

 

[Bretley]

Yeah its tough to say what accounted for that. Obviously the way the tuner is setting it up could make sense, but I cant say for sure. Having a mountain of torque on 205 street tires is pretty damn pointless anyhow. I spin the tires all the way through second, and coming out turns in 2nd or 3rd on 3/4 throttle or more lights up the inside tire (need that LSD!) Inconsistencies with the dyno are also a very likely culprit. The numbers with the MRX upgrade seem to be about where there should be, where as the MR230 hp numbers should have been significantly higher. Also Bretley the dyno place I used was north of San Antonio, so it was much less humid, but otherwise ambient temperature and altitude it pretty similar.

Ok cool, thanks for the input. My numbers may even be lower but it's all good. Did Randy tune your car? I'm having him tune mine, been on his tunes since 1100 miles lol.

 

[Based]

Weaker than stock, i doubt it. But with a tune, probably. But even with a Stage 3, that huge TQ is only for a split second. The MRX will hold that TQ all the way plus it looks to be around an estimated 80 more horsepower to with what peoples dyno/vdynos are reporting.

Yeah I'm full bolt on minus downpipe, with a stratified flash tune for those mods. My vdyno says 190whp@5500 and 240tq @ 3400 but only for like 100 rpm or so. I just hope it's not really noticeable in regular driving


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[FiestaTexas]

Yeah hes doing all my tuning. Youre spot on with your post about it holding torque too. The torque really starts to kick in around 3000 and then peaks around 5500.

 

[Based]

Yeah hes doing all my tuning. Youre spot on with your post about it holding torque too. The torque really starts to kick in around 3000 and then peaks around 5500.

Your torque numbers are still a little low compared to the dyno in the first post too lol


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[FiestaTexas]

Well some of that could account for the cat too. Randy told me straight up if I'm running a cat it wont make the rated power. So if your car has a cat don't expect to have quite the same numbers as Mountune advertised. They do tell you that the MRX is not designed for road use, and for track use only, so its designed to run without cat. Plus, this was done a DynoJet and not a MustangDyno like Mountunes, so you have to expect some variation between the different models.

 

[Bretley]

Yeah I'm full bolt on minus downpipe, with a stratified flash tune for those mods. My vdyno says 190whp@5500 and 240tq @ 3400 but only for like 100 rpm or so. I just hope it's not really noticeable in regular driving


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I will definitely give you honest observations. I'm at "stage 2" also and got a Depo Racing 100cel catted DP to put on with the kit. I'll take logs with both setups so we can see the relative difference between them. If all stars align, everything will be here this we and I'll install it next weekend.
[MENTION=5536]FiestaTexas[/MENTION], I'm really excited. Coming from DSM's and turbo Hondas with the top end power, the stock turbo on the Fiesta totally changed my driving style as I'm never even see 6k. Its gonna be nice to be back to the more traditional feel this old dog is used to lol.

 

[Bretley]

Double post. Grrr...

 

[FiestaTexas]

Also if you subscribe to the 10% rule with inertial dynos the engine is really putting out close to 290hp and 270 lb/ft of torque. Pretty damn good out of a 1.6!

 

[antarctica24]

Yeah its tough to say what accounted for that. Obviously the way the tuner is setting it up could make sense, but I cant say for sure. Having a mountain of torque on 205 street tires is pretty damn pointless anyhow. I spin the tires all the way through second, and coming out turns in 2nd or 3rd on 3/4 throttle or more lights up the inside tire (need that LSD!) Inconsistencies with the dyno are also a very likely culprit. The numbers with the MRX upgrade seem to be about where there should be, where as the MR230 hp numbers should have been significantly higher. Also Bretley the dyno place I used was north of San Antonio, so it was much less humid, but otherwise ambient temperature and altitude it pretty similar.

ok, so for comparison this morning, running on 92 oct.

Vdyno is saying the following 285HP@6008 and 291TQ@4268 If I take out the corrections and the weight, it says 227@6008 and 229@4268, the corrections included This is why I think something is wrong with what the dyno is telling you. Even If I take out the corrections, my max torque is at 4268 not 5500. And the car is definitely making more than 227HP and 229Ft Torque. I was making close to 260 ft torque in Raleigh NC on the stock setup on a dynojet and this is definitely faster and more powerful.

Weight for this run includes 2 people, 70 lbs for a full tank of gas and 30 lbs for the Exhaust system. Stock was 13, CPE is 44, so I subtract to get 30 total 594
Temp this morning was 66
Barometric Pressure was 27.666 inHg at my altitude of 2521.49 ft This was pulled from my phone.
Location was Reardan WA 47.74487N, 117,75475W,W
Humidity 47%
I'm also moving 27.89 @6937 worth of air per minute.

I have nothing to prove and no reason to make up anything. I do not work for Mountune and if I go to the dynojet next week and this thing only makes 227hp and 229ft torque Ill pull it out of the car.

This is why it is so important to get the information correctly for vdyno. Not correcting for the weight in the car, and the pressure and temp is just not going to give accurate results. Everyone is trying to do comparisons all over the country and we have different conditions all over the country. I don't think there is any amount of humidity that would throw off where your torque peak is. I'm assuming Randy at Mountune did not tune your car either.

For a comparison,
I am running a CP-E 3" exhaust
I am running a MA Performance FMIC
I am running a CP-E CAI
My hot side and cold side pipes are 2.5"
And I am running a Rev9 3" Catless DP from ebay of all places

When I do my runs next week on the Dynojet, I will be logging so I can load my runs on VDyno to compare a once and for all between what is real and what is not real, but all things considered, the characteristics of this turbo should place the max HP and Max torque in the same ballpark between cars regardless of where you are. For you to be almost 1500RPM off, just doesn't seem possible, and it could be I don't have enough experience to even make that comment. Maybe the Dynojet behaves differently than how the vdyno is calculating based on driving on the street. And by all means I do not consider the vdyno to be 100 percent accurate, however with that said, I think the more information you give the more accurate it can be, but we will see next week.

Also, I don't understand spinning the tires comment. From a dead stop, I can blow off the tires in 1st gear, but When I hit second and go to the floor, the car is ballistic but I am getting traction. its not the hardest launch I have ever experienced, but all I have to compare is my 800hp ta which made 693ft tq at 2500rpm. I have to hold the steering wheel with both hands because it wants to get squirrelly but when I catch third, hitting 100 is a no brainer and it happens really quick.

This is where I am getting my data