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Getting the Best Deal on a New Car?

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Reston
#1
Howdy all!

So I am just about 99% positive that I want to purchase a new (2016/17) FiST. The hardest part was convincing the wife! Now the next hardest part is trying to find a good deal. I read through most of the ST Deal thread and people got some amazing prices. However, I have never bought a new car before so all of this is completely foreign to me and have absolutely no idea on what to do to get the best price. Is what they are advertising on their website the best price? Can I go lower? How much lower? I'm in the Northern VA area if anyone would like to recommend a dealer around the area, would definitely be willing to travel if the price is right!
 


Truth in Ruin

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#2
I too had a hard time convincing my wife on a FiST. "It's too small." I'm sure you've heard that as well (half pun), but now I can't get the key-fob back from her. True story, she stole my car, and now I'm driving hers lol

You live in an excellent area for a great deal on a FiST. Last I checked, they were going dirt cheap in Florida, too. I live in Lincoln Nebraska, but I purchased my FiST in Texas. I was working in Tulsa Oklahoma at the time, so it was only a 3 hour drive away; it made for a long night, but it was worth it. Got my FiST for $17,073. -$272 dealer offer, -$4,000 rebate, and then talked them down another $500.

Get an interest rate quote from your bank, or a credit union before you show up to the dealer, because there's a good chance it may be lower than the interest rate that they'll offer.

The "Koons" dealerships used to be the cheapest, but I don't think they have been recently. There may be better ways to do it, but when I was shopping- I went to AutoTrader. I searched: ST trim, New, and put the price at $18,000. It'll show you FiSTs selling new for under $18,000. Hope this helps; good luck!
 


OP
E
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Thread Starter #3
Thankfully my wife loves her truck (Toyota Tundra) and doesn't like driving anything that is low to the ground! So I should hopefully be okay on that front.

Right now it doesn't seem like there are too many rebates available, 200 cash back on the 2017, more on the 2016s.
 


Truth in Ruin

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#4
I just checked the Koons Ford dealer in your area. They have a 2017 magnetic going for $18,776. Not too bad, but I've seen them going for $17,176 - $15,9xx over there before, but those were 2016s, and I'm not so sure they'll ever be in the 15s again since there may not ever be 2018s available.

Truck or not, if she drives it, she may want it. My wife wanted nothing to do with a manual, but she realized how much fun the car is... And now I may be buying another FiST so I can have one too LMAO
 


OP
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Thread Starter #6
You will likely have better luck on price with a 2016 IF you can find one.
Yea I am currently looking at a few of the 2016 models around my area but I am having a hard time trying to find out how much I can actually haggle (if at all) from their internet price. However, Ford's website does not have any listed incentives for the 2016s. Hmmm


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Fairfax
#8
Go,to Koons Ford in Baltimore and talk to Mark Rogers he's the sales manager. Tell them I sent you, you will get a fantastic deal. I paid $17,300 OTD for my 2016 base. Best sales experience I've ever had at a car dealership. If you interested pm mad I will give you my name.
 


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Brooklyn
#11
When a bus came into my lane and totaled my '04 Focus SVT in January, I wasn't sure I was getting another car. I searched for different cars for about a month. Bouncing between the Fiesta ST, VW GTI, and Honda Fit EX with manual.
The Honda Fit doesn't get discounted. Period. Not from Honda. Not from the dealer. So I had no luck finding it even $500 below MSRP.
The GTI is a nice car but I couldn't justify spending another $10k for the Autobahn or SE w/ performance pkg. Even used was very expensive.
I had access to my friend's Manheim dealer account and the prices I was seeing for USED 2015-2016 Fiesta ST was only a $2-3k difference at wholesale than the prices some people here were getting. It didn't make any sense to buy used. I started my search for NEW Fiesta STs. Local NYC area dealers prices were close to MSRP minus the incentives (for my area it's $2750) which is B.S. I knew I could do better. I started looking throughout the country. That was too far. I was only willing to fly as far as the Midwest or Florida (1000 miles or so). I ending finding the best price at Koons. I made sure to get the price breakdown in writing. The day of I bought a one way Chinatown bus from NYC to Baltimore. They picked me up from the bus stop. I got one of the last 3 2016s on their lot. I couldn't believe how much I saved over MSRP. No haggling. No fuss. 3 hours from start to finish. Their 2017 prices honestly aren't the lowest compared to the 2016 deal I got but they're not bad. And if wait until the end of the year, they will be selling them for a song again.

A LOT of dealers advertise teaser prices on Cars, Cargurus, or Autotrader to get on top of the search with the lowest listed price. BUT when you inquire about the car they will say the price listed included Ford Military discounts, College discounts, etc that most wouldn't qualify for.. or they have lots of hidden fees.

Koons prices are very transparent. Their WOW price is basically what it sells for before you add the $875 shipping. Koon VA charges $700 for their dealer doc fees, Koons MD only charges $300.
You have to add DMV tags (another $200-400) and your local taxes. I dealt with Melvin Bagby. He's a pretty straight shooter.

BTW I put the WHOLE car on my credit card so the points I earn from that will get me a domestic R/T flight.
 


zanethan

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Charlotte
#12
The best way to get a good deal on a new car is to do your research BEFORE ever stepping into a dealership. Know what they are selling for in your area. Figure out how far you're willing to drive to get the vehicle and figure out what the vehicle is going for in those areas. Get preapproved for a loan BEFORE going into the dealership as well. If you're trading a vehicle in you need to figure out what a fair trade price is on the car. Also, figure out what they will try to resell that vehicle for after the trade. (look at Autotrader, KBB, NADA Guides, and other dealers). Print out as much proof that your vehicle is worth $XXXXX.XX as possible and take that with you. The more work you do before going to the dealership the better.

When you finally do go into the dealership you want to remain neutral the entire time. You don't want to show the salesman that you love the vehicle and have to have it. The moment you show emotional attachment is the moment the salesperson will pounce. Take the car for a test drive and afterward say you like it but you're not sure about X, Y, or Z.

When it comes time to negotiate the price see what their first offer is and make sure its the cash price of the vehicle. Do not shop monthly payments!! (Many dealers will show you monthly prices that are low without telling you that its foe 72+ months). If the price is high based on your research present your research and tell them that this is what the car is selling for in the area. If they say you're wrong then insist that you have done your research and know that this is what they are going for. A good salesperson will see that you know your stuff at this point and give a fair offer. If they don't counter with a fair price then leave your contact info, tell them that you'll be going to another dealership (a specific name really gets them shaking), and WALK OUT. 99% of the time you will get a call within 48 hours agreeing to your price after you walk. If not then go to other dealerships and play the game there.

I cannot stress this enough:
The Fiesta ST is a mass produced car. In addition, it doesn't sell like hot cakes. Yes its a fun car but it's a niche. There are literally thousands of them produced annually. The one at the dealership you're looking at is NOT special. The salesperson will try to convince you that it is special but it isn't. Keep all this in mind and you'll do well.
 


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Arlington, VA
#13
When I was shopping about this time two years ago, I looked all over the place and there weren't a ton of STs around, but I just looked at truecar and stuff to see what the best prices people in the area were getting and tried to shoot for that. At the time, I remember Koons Baltimore had the lowest internet prices, but they didn't have the car I wanted. I started talking to the guys at Koons Silver Spring, and they were the most responsive. They didn't have the car I wanted either, but they went out to somewhere on the Eastern Shore I think and got one that was what I was looking for. I negotiated the out the door price over the internet. How you do it doesn't really matter, you just gotta keep pushing them lower and say you got offers elsewhere for less, blah blah blah, until you think you've reached their floor, and then decide if you are willing to pay it. They were generally easy to deal with once I went there to buy it. The F&I guy was quoting me something slightly higher than what I agree to with the sales manager because of some tax or something, and I pushed back and got it for what I agreed to. Just stand your ground and don't be afraid to walk out if they are fucking with you. Also don't buy the service plans or whatever from them. You probably don't need them in the first place, but if you decide you want them, you can find them cheaper online. And like others have said, the 2016s and 2017s are basically the same except for some paint options, so see if you can get a better deal on a 2016. Good luck!

P.S. Koons Ford Falls Church are a bunch of morons in my experience. They managed to fuck up my oil change. Not going back to them.
 


jmrtsus

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#14
Ripped off? Probably not.......see below.

The Koons Baltimore Ford "Wow Price" does not include any applicable tax, title/licensing fees, destination & delivery charges, processing and/or documentation fees.


Detailed Pricing

$22,015MSRP1 Update......Koons sent me a "real" price see Email I got today on the $18,776 WOW price!

Hi John
Thank you for your interest in the 2016 Ford Fiesta. Great News! This is currently available. As for pricing $21,835. Plus the documentation charge of $398. You will also be responsible for your state taxes and registration fee's. Let me know when the best time would be to come in and take a closer look and see if we can save you some more money. We would be happy to go over all of your options and structure the best deal possible.

$18,776WOW Price REAL price $22233.....$218 OVER sticker for a 2016!


I love all the posts on Koons low prices. You really have to read the fine print!

Add the "processing" fee and the "doc" fee plus the $700 current rebate and you will find the price is the same you can get at almost any dealer. Just what is a "processing" fee? The process of selling you a car?


Another disclaimer from an internet ad published price

"The Our Cost Price reflects all applicable manufacturer rebates and/or incentives (not all will qualify) and is based on retail purchase with additional dealer discounts including a $2,000 Imperial Trade Assistance Bonus for qualifying 2007 or newer trade. Our cost is not a selling price but reflects our best effort to convey our actual cost after the application of all applicable rebates. Our RED TAG specials are available exclusively through our phone and internet department. Price subject to change if manufacturer rebates change. Lease, business and fleet acquisitions may result in a different pricing and rebate structure. Price does not include tax, title, registration, and documentation fee or other applicable fees. Vehicle must be paid in full and take same day delivery from dealer stock."

Translation...price is pie in the sky and the $2000 trade bonus "qualifying" means you get it only if you accept a $2000 loss on your trade. But the kicker is "delivery the same day" to prevent you from shopping the price.

An advertised price has very little to do with the price you will pay. And many people will swear they bought a car for thousands less than the dealer paid because they do not comprehend the numbers game. They didn't, just like the above ad, they give you thousands less than your trade is worth and take it off the price to give you such a "low" price on the car. Or like the above they imply the advertised price is what you pay for a car. It isn't if "fees" for things you do not have to pay like "processing" or "Doc" fees are added. Some states have laws restricting what a new car dealer can charge for "Doc" fees. I have seen in Atlanta "Doc" fees from $150 to $1000 at Ford dealers when I shopped my car. They are pure profit to the dealer and will be added to the price. The Dealer tells you they are "mandatory" and "everyone" pays them. Bullshirt! It is just another number shuffling play by the dealer. It you buy a car for $22000 and pay fees of $1500 you paid $23500 for the car not $22000 the dealer advertised. And any trade negates the claims of cheap prices as it provides nothing to base the price claimed. TT&L are not included in the car's sales price.

No dealer will sell at a loss, in 98% of the cases the dealer does not own the car, Ford does. So the cost of waiting for a customer is minimal. When you see people claiming to have bought a new loaded ST at ridiculous prices like $3000 under invoice don't believe it for a moment unless that dealer absolutly had to sell one more car by midnight to meet goals for rebates and bonuses. A very, very rare occurrence I am sure. They were probably conned with the number games illustrated above. Dealers have 101 ways to jack the price while telling you they are losing money! They do not pay their franchise fees and mortgage if the sell at a loss do they? Use something like Truecar or Edmunds to see if you really got ripped off. If people try to tell you of these crazy $3000 under invoice prices challenge them to show the sales contract to you. I will again enter the car buying zoo next week, my daughter totaled her Audi Monday. Typical of her lemon Audi, the air bags did not employ and she has a broken Clavicle and two fractures of the Sternum from the seat belt. POS!
 


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#15
Lots of great advice here. I usually buy low mileage pre owned to let original owner take the major depreciation hit. The last several cars I have purchased were a fly in ( to the city, 10 hrs max drive) and drive home. I looked on Autotrader and put in the model I wanted. Started with least expensive posted price. Looked at carfax to see history, including how long dealer had car so how long it was for sale. Longer than 2 months on lot and they are much more likely to deal. 3 months and it will go to auction soon, so those are the best to make a deal. I look at KBB good value trade in value for my goal for our the door price ( with me paying taxes at home). They especially are more ready to deal the last week of the month. I have saved $2-3k over a local price after 200-300 cost of one way flight is included ( and they will usually meet you at airport with car so you can test drive back to dealer). Takes one day to fly, buy car, and drive home. And the savings go for goodies for my like new car with lots of warranty. And the older the car, the cheaper the insurance.

Remember, once you drive your new car off the lot, it is now a used car:(

That's the way I usually do it. Worked well for me. Never had to fly home without the car...
 


OP
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Thread Starter #16
Lots of great advice here. I usually buy low mileage pre owned to let original owner take the major depreciation hit. The last several cars I have purchased were a fly in ( to the city, 10 hrs max drive) and drive home. I looked on Autotrader and put in the model I wanted. Started with least expensive posted price. Looked at carfax to see history, including how long dealer had car so how long it was for sale. Longer than 2 months on lot and they are much more likely to deal. 3 months and it will go to auction soon, so those are the best to make a deal. I look at KBB good value trade in value for my goal for our the door price ( with me paying taxes at home). They especially are more ready to deal the last week of the month. I have saved $2-3k over a local price after 200-300 cost of one way flight is included ( and they will usually meet you at airport with car so you can test drive back to dealer). Takes one day to fly, buy car, and drive home. And the savings go for goodies for my like new car with lots of warranty. And the older the car, the cheaper the insurance.

Remember, once you drive your new car off the lot, it is now a used car:(

That's the way I usually do it. Worked well for me. Never had to fly home without the car...
So my only concern with flying or traveling long distances is how do you know they won't try and pull a bait and switch. Or not hold up on their end of the bargain.


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#17
So my only concern with flying or traveling long distances is how do you know they won't try and pull a bait and switch. Or not hold up on their end of the bargain.


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I do a lot of talking and get them to do a lot pics including underneath car. I check carfax to see some history (may not show all wrecks). I also get a bank money order for about $5000 less than negotiated price (and the rest in cash), so if I find something not disclaimed, I will negotiate a reduced price or threaten to walk. Never had to walk. One time I found car did not have spare tire or any tools, so they took off $300 for that. I bought a can of fix a flat for the trip and hoped for the best. When I got home, quickly found all the replacement stuff for $80.

If you talk to the people several times, you can get a sense from their tone and attitude whether they are being truthful (most of the time). And in some cases, I have found a backup car that I could go look at if something was wrong with the primary car. Purchased 2 cars from Houston, 2 from Miami, one from Louisville, 2 from Tampa , one from Atlanta (drove there) and the ST from St. Louis area. I always try to buy southern rust free cars. Maybe I have been lucky, but I want to think I increase my odds for success by a lot of research, a lot of calls, a lot of pics. And if it is from a dealer, internet research will let you know how other people have been treated by that dealer. I bought the ST from a Ford dealership (Manchen of Columbia MO). I paid $200, included in out the door purchase price (for 2 retired gentlemen drivers) to get them to deliver car 120 miles to St. Louis airport where i examined vehicle (as described), sign papers, give them check (they held car for $500 deposit for a week till I had a weekend to pick up car). Saved me about 4 hours of driving and a $50 bus fair to middle of MO to dealership.

PM me if I can answer any other questions.
 


jmrtsus

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#18
So my only concern with flying or traveling long distances is how do you know they won't try and pull a bait and switch. Or not hold up on their end of the bargain.


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You don't.......but they want to sell a car, many times including buying my FiST they tried the "error" in the paper work scam.....Does not work if you bring pre-filled out checks, just walk away.....the sales manager will chase you down to take your check. Had one running down the street to stop me. They took my checks. Buying a new car is a war between you and the Dealer. The goal is to negotiate a settlement that both parties are happy. Dealer count on several psychological points in their favor. First is you want to buy a car, second it is something we do not normally do and they do all the time, most people are baffled with the process with the numbers game, people want to trust the sales staff to "guide" them through the confusing process and they are trained to suck you into believing that. They will lie, and lie and lie if that is what it takes to get your money. You will find a disclaimer on the back of your sale agreement where the dealer divorces itself from any and all promises and statement of the sales staff unless they are in writing. Your best negotiating tool is to walk away.......your phone will ring. And DO NOT believe all the internet prices....they are bogus and they even tell you if you are the 1 in 100 that read the fine print. Look at the examples from Koons and Imperial Ford's ads in the thread.
 


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Brooklyn
#19
Sorry to hear about the Audi. Glad I didn't get that VW then. :/

I have no skin in the game with Koons. I was just stating my positive experience with them. Looking at the 2017 Fiesta ST prices at Koons today, I would NOT buy it from them. Timing is everything. There were about $2000 more incentives for the 2016 over the 2017 last month. I'm pretty sure the market has dried up with 2016s. Also spring and summer is a pretty bad time to look for a new car. I would wait it out if possible. Again, I'm very patient and got lucky with timing. Even with stupid high taxes in NYC of nearly 9% I still did very well with my purchase. Hope the car buying gods smile on all of you. :)


They were probably conned with the number games illustrated above. Dealers have 101 ways to jack the price while telling you they are losing money! They do not pay their franchise fees and mortgage if the sell at a loss do they? Use something like Truecar or Edmunds to see if you really got ripped off. If people try to tell you of these crazy $3000 under invoice prices challenge them to show the sales contract to you. I will again enter the car buying zoo next week, my daughter totaled her Audi Monday. Typical of her lemon Audi, the air bags did not employ and she has a broken Clavicle and two fractures of the Sternum from the seat belt. POS!
 


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Location
Santa Rosa
#20
The dealer is basically leasing every car they sell. Very few dealers have the capital to pay outright for their 200($20k +) cars is about $4-6 million in inventory.
So they pay a monthly fee to the manufacturer to keep these cars/trucks on their lot then pay them off once they sell them.
 


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