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What was Mountune thinking?

TyphoonFiST

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#1
Bought the shift adapter to have 30% over the Fswerks one i had.....very tasty piece of billet. But that's besides the point of the dumb son of a bitch who decided the put and Allen head bolt to the bottom side of the adapter...talk about a large amount of Tedious piece of dog Sh$t turn by turn to get that cockwomble to go in....MOUNTUNE PLEASE CHANGE THIS. (STEPPING off soap box). [bash]
 


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#4
The Allen screw has a slot in it so you can tighten it from the top once you get it started but it is a pain in the arse to start it
 


Hijinx

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#5
Just pull out the gear selector.

Put the car in neutral. Take out the one or two bolts. Pop off the trans cables (be very careful). Slide the gear selector out. When you put everything back in, there's a cable alignment you can do...it's somewhere around here. Just search "rodmoe shifter cable adjustment."


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RAAMaudio

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#6
A DIY preferred mod in my book.

Started with shaping a piece of solid steel to fit the contour of the stock lever and welded it on then bored the hole were I wanted it which gave a shorter throw than any aftermarket part.
Then cut and realigned the cable mounts so the cables aimed closer to the proper location and welded in washers to eliminate the rubber bushings. Total time was around 2 hours and cost around $1.

One can also raise the shifter by using long coupling nuts screwed on to the tunnel floor studs then bolts through the base, I used nylon spacers between the nuts and base to firm things up a bit and left out the rubber bushings. I had to unbolt and move the sensor out of the way to raise the cable up over it, then reinstall. Total approx $5, time around 1.5 hours. (see note below)



Now I have a taller, shorter shifter that has never failed, very precise, easy to feel exactly where it is, no missed shifts, no cables popping off, $6 and 3.5 hours invested.

Note: At first I raised the shifter 1.25" by separating the base into two parts, made a plate to bolt them together on one end and used standoffs and longer bolts for the rest, it took several hours, cost a few bucks, did not raise it enough so I did the rest of the 2.5" total lift the the coupling nuts and bolts, then realized it could of all been done that way.

I recommend 2" inch raise, possibly 2.25". I had to trim the boot trim piece to get it back on as the shifter base was a bit to high and it still touches it sometimes pops the trim up off the console a little. I will trim it more later or lower the base 1/4", etc...easier to trim the trim ring if possible to get enough clearance.
 


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TyphoonFiST

TyphoonFiST

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Thread Starter #7
My screw did NOT have a slot in it to make it into a flat head bolt. What would be great is if Mountune would tell you all of this stuff their "directions"....it was very vague. I will come over to anyone's house in the MSP/Stp. Area and do theirs with them if they want now due to this fiasco. It still is a very tasty piece of modding though....
 


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#8
The FSwerks one was pretty tedious also. I put it on 25% and felt like there was no throw at all. Didn't like it. Took it off and switched it to the 15% one which was perfect. 30% would feel wayyyyyy too short for me.
 


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TyphoonFiST

TyphoonFiST

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Thread Starter #9
I will have a fswerks one for sale here real quick.....the 30% is like flicking the wrist to shift.
 


RAAMaudio

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#10
A bit late but for others to see if your short shifter part feels to short then adding a lever extension makes it longer again, why I raised my shifter base instead of using the extension I had.
With all solid bushings my shifter is very precise and quite short in throw but 2.5" taller moved a bit forward, falls in hand perfectly for quick shifts on track, up and down.
 


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#11
I just installed mine this week, I couldn't believe I had to go back in and put the bolt in through the bottom. I referenced the YouTube video and paper instructions to figure it out. Glad someone else shared in the frustration.
 


M-Sport fan

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#12
The FSwerks one was pretty tedious also. I put it on 25% and felt like there was no throw at all. Didn't like it. Took it off and switched it to the 15% one which was perfect. 30% would feel wayyyyyy too short for me.
My 30% Mountune could still use a little shorter throw, as far as I'm concerned, but I am afraid to go with the only other thing which would shorten it any more, (the boomba racing short shift, interior LEVER/handle itself) since some have experienced some bind from this combo (and yes, I do know many also have not had any problems, but with MY luck, I will be in the former category. [:(]).

I guess coming from, and being used to, a Pro 5.0 directly mounted into the T56 gearbox type short shifter (NO shift cable), with maybe .50" to .75" throws between gears, I am a little spoiled as far as shift lever throw goes.
 


M-Sport fan

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#13
My screw did NOT have a slot in it to make it into a flat head bolt. What would be great is if Mountune would tell you all of this stuff their "directions"....it was very vague. I will come over to anyone's house in the MSP/Stp. Area and do theirs with them if they want now due to this fiasco. It still is a very tasty piece of modding though....
Turbo65 meant that the slot was in the BOTTOM of the allen screw, NOT up at the allen socket part, so that one could thread the screw in from the TOP of the shifter plate using a very narrow shank small slotted screwdriver.

But, as noted, it was STILL a ROYAL PAIN to even get it started from the bottom to be able to do this, especially if you have large hands. [mad]

Overall, this, and the boomba under hood shift cable bracket bushings were two of the most frustrating things I've ever done on a car, ever, in my 45 years of working on cars.

Getting that 'pin' out of the factory shift arm, even with the Mountune supplied tool, was no picnic either! [?|]

But I DO like the feel of the shifter now, especially as compared to the mile long factory shift throw/slop. ;)
 


OP
TyphoonFiST

TyphoonFiST

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Thread Starter #14
Let me reiterate what I said....My bolt had no flathead on the reverse side of the Allen bolt. It was just an Allen headed bolt.

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M-Sport fan

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#15
Let me reiterate what I said....My bolt had no flathead on the reverse side of the Allen bolt. It was just an Allen headed bolt.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
OK, I misunderstood, and Mountune (if you bought it from them, or a vendor?) definitely sent you the WRONG allen bolt! [mad]

Maybe somehow you got an older 'kit', and they only changed to this style slotted bottom allen bolt fairly recently??
 


DangerMouse

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#16
My bolt also had no slot in it. This is what I used to install it. Made quick work of it, so I'm not all angry at mountune.

1/4" ratchet wrench with a 3/16" hex bit.

Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

 


OP
TyphoonFiST

TyphoonFiST

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Thread Starter #17
This thread should be vaulted for those who need the info that is not given by the vendors with poo poo directions.

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DangerMouse

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#18
I agree, lack of instructions and first mod I did on the car, I put the bolt in from the top. But then I was like that doesn't feel right, why would it just sit in there. So I went from the bottom.
 




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