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Tips for installing your CAI

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308
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Location
Ottawa
#1
Hey Guys,

Finished up with installing my CAI from CP-E last night and figured I'd give some pointers / bonus advice.



1. It's MUCH easier if you remove the headlights/back shroud, and gives you a spot to place your beer.
2. Have a bucket of soapy water on hand, the space behind the plastic shroud gets diiiirty. Mine was full of dust etc and I only drive the FIST in the spring/fall/summer.
3. The pipe attaching to your turbo housing is going to be a bitch. I highly recommend asking someone with small hands to do the two clamps on that side
4. CP-E recommends keeping some spray around to adjust the clamps, I didn't find it necessary, but it's a good thought.
5. Have a clean spot to store your MAF sensor while swapping intakes (use tupperware or something that can seal)
6. Be careful with your MAF sensor screws, they are super sensitive. Hand tight is good enough (I over did it and have to drill out one side now :/ ). If the car throws a check code, either clean the MAF or give the screws another 1/4 turn.
7. Might not be a bad idea too use electrical tape on the MAF sensor plug wires as you will likely not be in the OEM position.

CP-E specific:

Throw the plastic window into some hot water and let it soak over night. It will be way easier to pull the paper and glue off. Give it a clean with some alcohol (iso) to get any extra glue residue off.

*** I think the plastic is thick enough to get engraved, so it might be a fun side mod :) ***

CP-E fails to mention to reinstall the RAM duct from the factory. I would do this once the box and filter are installed.

On my replacement latch, the clips are really terrible (they come off the latch every time I go to prop the hood). I'm likely going to super glue or epoxy these down. (Will edit once I have a proper fix).

Hope this helps!
 


koozy

3000 Post Club
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Los Angeles, CA, USA
#2
no need to glue the clip, the clip just needs to be ground or filed down a bit so it engages the metal retainer. work with the metal retainer and clip off of the car and you'll see that the clip isn't clicking on properly. btw, only 1 clip is needed when everything is right.
 


kivnul

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#3
Getting that pipe in with the shroud still in place was lots of "fun". I also have a potential problem with the largish pipe that does into that back tube, it doesn't want to go in straight. I think i got it to seal by heating it up and bending it some. Didn't have much luck with the heat gun on this project.
 


OP
B
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Location
Ottawa
Thread Starter #4
Getting that pipe in with the shroud still in place was lots of "fun". I also have a potential problem with the largish pipe that does into that back tube, it doesn't want to go in straight. I think i got it to seal by heating it up and bending it some. Didn't have much luck with the heat gun on this project.
Are you referring to the 45 degree bend on the pipe that goes to the turbo? (feel free to circle on my photo). I can take more pics of what I did since we went super slow.
 


kivnul

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#5


Circled is the pipe in question. If the connection to the hard pipe was about 1 inch further to the left it would have worked great.
 


OP
B
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Location
Ottawa
Thread Starter #6


Circled is the pipe in question. If the connection to the hard pipe was about 1 inch further to the left it would have worked great.

hmm. I didn't have any issues with that. I did fully remove the pipe though.
 


Messages
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Location
Reading
#7


Circled is the pipe in question. If the connection to the hard pipe was about 1 inch further to the left it would have worked great.
I also had trouble with this. It seems cp-e didn't weld the fitting on at the right spot.
 


Messages
276
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207
Location
Beltsville
#8
Thanks for posting this!

The sticker on the plexi is the worst!

The havent had any trouble with the crank vent tube. I had a few customers who have had a CEL because it wasnt fully clipped in. Make sure both sides of the clip are fully in and seated. The tube itself has some freedom to move around on the valve cover connection, so if you play with it a little, it may be easier to get it in.

Feel free to PM me if anybody has trouble with the CP-E intake!
 


Messages
135
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43
Location
Murray
#9
Another thing. Mount the clamps that hold the silicone 45 closest to the motor so they don't rattle against the cowling.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


DangerMouse

Senior Member
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Location
Rockford
#10
Just finished installing mine. The vent tube port on the back pipe needs to be a smidge to the left. There is nothing in the way, no reason it can't be over a little to the left. Mine clicked in but you can see the yellow inside on the right. I may just replace it with a hose and clamp.

The smaller pipe was a real pain in the ass. If the pipe was a little longer or one of the couplers was longer it would have been fine.

I was surprised I didn't have an issue getting the pipe into the turbo inlet. I did use silicone spray so maybe that's why.

It looks nice and seems well made but still could use some tweaks.
 


Messages
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Location
Calgary
#11
Two things I noticed after installing mine: 1. The orientation of the silicone elbows matters, a lot. The elbow that attaches to the air box needs to have the shorter side of the elbow attach to the box, and the longer side attach to the MAF pipe. If you attach it the other way around, you could see the MAF pipe rub against the side of your engine.
Pic1
Pic2

The other thing I noticed was that the relocated hood prop clips damage the airbox every time I push the prop down into it. It flexes far enough that the metal corner digs into the airbox, leaving a nice visible scratch behind. I've tried adjust the prop clips to be as far away from the box as I can and it still does it every time.
 


kivnul

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#12
I ended up putting some duct tape on the edge of the hood prop. Its either that or take a cutter to the prop to trim off the corner. I have a huge gouge in my box from it.
 


DangerMouse

Senior Member
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Location
Rockford
#13
I believe in the instructions it said to put the longer side of the coupler on the filter side. That's was definitely incorrect. Must do it how you described or the pipe will rub. Luckily the scratches I have can't be seen.

What is rubbing the air box? The hood prop bracket or the actual hood prop?

When I first installed mine I didn't have the rubber isolator from the stock air box so the cpe prop bracket was rubbing on the box.

I didn't drive it til I was able to get it put on.
 


Messages
289
Likes
123
Location
Calgary
#14
Yea....I wasn't impressed with the instructions. Thankfully my MAF pipe scratches are also fairly well hidden. If it pipe gets a hole in it I will definitely be contacting cp-e. Regarding the prop, its the actualy metal bracket that the clips attach to that has enough flex in it to scuff the air box.
 




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