Car won't start/crank when let alone for more than 6 hurs.

[pedrito0906]

This is the problem that I'm having, and no dealership has been able to detect the F****N problem, not even 5 mechanics with really good scanners, because there is no code stored.

[video=youtube;1gmstM6iAOk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gmstM6iAOk[/video]

As you can hear, it tried to start in the second try, failing miserably

 

[WAM]

Maybe get a regional service manager involved? They carry a big stick. I had an Evo once that had an impossible to diagnose engine light. They kept the car for months. The regional manager saw how much time had been spent on it and told them to either replace the whole damn motor if necessary, or give me a new car. They replaced the motor.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Maybe get a regional service manager involved? They carry a big stick. I had an Evo once that had an impossible to diagnose engine light. They kept the car for months. The regional manager saw how much time had been spent on it and told them to either replace the whole damn motor if necessary, or give me a new car. They replaced the motor.

Did replacing the engine solve the problem?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[CanadianGuy]

This is the problem that I'm having, and no dealership has been able to detect the F****N problem, not even 5 mechanics with really good scanners, because there is no code stored.

[video=youtube;1gmstM6iAOk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gmstM6iAOk[/video]

As you can hear, it tried to start in the second try, failing miserably

Did you try press and hold? Should not need it but. Only other thing I can guess is the clutch switch is not detected and it give you accessory mode.

 

[WAM]

Did replacing the engine solve the problem?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

It did. Conjecture was that there was a shifted aluminum casting (cam carrier maybe?) that resulted in a slightly misaligned sensor which could not be made happy. Why that might take a few months to pop up was never made clear to me.

 

[pedrito0906]

Did you try press and hold? Should not need it but. Only other thing I can guess is the clutch switch is not detected and it give you accessory mode.

Since day one I have been starting it with only one push, besides, when the car gets warm, everything works as new. So, I'm guessing maybe the transmission module control is bad? Because one time I noticed lack of power coming from the tranny.

In the dealership they told me that there is no code stored, so they can't do anything. I got another appointment with another dealership this coming wedneday that I heard they are the most experieced, and also, I'm taking the car this saturday to an electro mechanic.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Being a manual...id think it has no trans control module like an automatic because you control the shifting. Sounds like it may be an electrical gremlins and it might be lemon lawed.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[LaserWhisperer]

Does lemon law apply in Puerto Rico?

Also, I agree with Typhoon. Being that it is a manual transmission, there should not be any transmission control modules.
Dumb question, but have any of the dealers tried replacing the push button ignition switch?

 

[pedrito0906]

Oh.. so no TCM, ok. Lemon Law does apply to Puerto Rico luckily. I just woke up, the dealership opens at 7:30 am, so I'm going to check the status before going with an electro mechanic.

The person told me that they cannot change any component if there is no code stored in the scanner, or if they cannot replicate the problem which is weird because you as an experienced mechanic should have an idea, or start changing components starting from the simplest to the hardest. She also told me that it could be the tranducer or whatever the name is, the push button, the computer, the clutch pedal switch or the keyfob, but code no fix.

 

[WAM]

If things don't resolve, at least study up on the lemon laws and see what you need for a successful claim. You may need a certain number of documented visits, or a certain number of days in the shop or something. You'll probably need paperwork proving that stuff if you have to go to court.

So what else can you do? You can go ahead and have a privateer mechanic change all that stuff one at a time until it's fixed. I doubt Ford will reimburse you for it, so it's on your dime. You could trade your car in on a new one and make it their problem. Or you can just keep pushing after it like you're doing and hopefully it will somehow get worked out in the end. But gotta say, most people who change stuff out based on a good guess waste a lot of money.

 

[pedrito0906]

Ok, this is interesting... When I asked the manager of that particular dealership about the status of the car his answer was "the problem is serious" He told me that they've found over 20 codes when the scanner read...O..M...G, he told me that they're going to check the transmission and the motor today, but I gotta work until late, so probably, tomorrow morning I will check the status again.

 

[Ceecab705]

Interesting, indeed.

 

[pedrito0906]

Update: The manager told me today thet they're going to order a new clutch sensor to verify if it turns on.

I don't think It's going to work because I disconnected the cable and used a jumper cable to close the circuit and then pressed the button, but didn't start either. Unless there are other things involve apart from just closing a circuit when you press the clutch pedal to start the car.

 

[Intuit]

Hi all:

My car is a 2015 with 16k miles on it. When I try to start the car in the mornings before going to work, the start/stop button works, I see all the lights in the dash but the car won't crank, I have the same problem in the afternoons when I'm off work in the parking lot. The only way to start it is by pushing it and letting the clutch out.

Once I'm driving the car for more that 30 mins, it starts when I press the button like normal, it's weird. I've had this problem since two months ago, in the dealership they tested the battery, cables and were fine, they changed the BCM telling me that was fixed, but the problem continuous. Have this ever happened to anyone?

Thanks,

I once had a battery that had no problem cranking the engine, but it had no capacity. At some point it got bad enough that I couldn't run the hazard lights for more than a couple of minutes without zapping it's ability to crank the engine. You could jump it, run for a minute, and crank it right back up. You could let it sit for a few days, and crank it back up. But try to run the radio for 30 minutes, and then you couldn't crank it afterwards. But this was an older vehicle. When you turned off the ignition, pretty much everything was off. Newer cars are not that way. There are PLENTY of live electronics after key-off. I've also had times where it developed a bad connection between the clamps and battery.

It may be worth taking the battery out and having it tested. If voltage-drop testing between the battery post and clamp reveal no issue, and the battery tests fine after removal, then unfortunately there may be a battery drain situation. There have been folks who have had drain issues cause by devices that were left plugged into the Diagnostic port; keeping the computer modules alive and slowly draining the battery.

 

[pedrito0906]

I once had a battery that had no problem cranking the engine, but it had no capacity. At some point it got bad enough that I couldn't run the hazard lights for more than a couple of minutes without zapping it's ability to crank the engine. You could jump it, run for a minute, and crank it right back up. You could let it sit for a few days, and crank it back up. But try to run the radio for 30 minutes, and then you couldn't crank it afterwards. But this was an older vehicle. When you turned off the ignition, pretty much everything was off. Newer cars are not that way. There are PLENTY of live electronics after key-off. I've also had times where it developed a bad connection between the clamps and battery.

It may be worth taking the battery out and having it tested. If voltage-drop testing between the battery post and clamp reveal no issue, and the battery tests fine after removal, then unfortunately there may be a battery drain situation. There have been folks who have had drain issues cause by devices that were left plugged into the Diagnostic port; keeping the computer modules alive and slowly draining the battery.

I tried a new battery, and still got the same problem, in AutoZone and in the dealership the battery was tested as well, resulting in good condition.

 

[Intuit]

Locate all of your other keys; just to be sure you don't have an extra one lying in the vehicle. Even then, it shouldn't cause battery drain but we want to eliminate the easy/simple/quick/cheap first. Does the same behavior occur in any location? If it only occurs in one location, that could be a potential clue.

From stereo to anything plugged into the Diagnostic Port, any modifications?

What is realtime voltage reading at the battery as the problem occurs? Based on your initial post, I *ASS-U-ME* this is a battery drain situation. The voltage reading is typically a clue as to whether this is really the case.

The goal of the following is to gain "silent" or undetected entry to the fuse panels after it sits long enough to go into standby mode.

I'd create a log-chart for each fused circuit, recording the name, what's on it and the amperage pull after a given time frame. F15 fuse memory serving, runs the SYNC system. I'd start with that fuse, and possibly the fuse in front of the body control module; whatever that may be.

After one hour, everything I assume, should be in standby mode. If the battery hasn't been drained, you could even wait three hours. They give some detail on standby and deep-sleep behaviors in the owner's manual.

One tricky part to this is to gain entry to the vehicle without the vehicle realizing it. Things wake-up when you approach and start doing stuff; we want to avoid that. You'll need to leave the key fob in the house... or well away from the vehicle if you have an indoor garage. (If your room is right next to or above the indoor garage, this could be a problem.) You'll need to defeat the hood monitoring switch. The security system monitors this and at this point, everything is suspect. If there isn't a fuse box panel in the cabin area, you can ignore the following. You may need to defeat a door jamb switch, or if it's monitoring the door handle pull, or door-latch, leave the windows down and enter Dukes Of Hazard style. My old vehicle, not a Fiesta, monitored both the door latch and door jamb switch, but for different systems.

Another tricky part to this is the fact that pulling a fuse, kills that system. Plugging that fuse back in, could have affect of waking that system back up for another timeout period. But you need to have the amp-meter inline with the fused circuit in order to measure draw. But it may take 30 minutes, an hour, for the system to go to sleep after wakeup; killing a LOT of time unless you got 20+ volt meters. The common limit for common inexpensive amp meters is only 10A. We're not really replicating the conditions without first running the vehicle before shutoff... which for many circuits, would exceed 10A. So bottom line, we may be forced to test for amp-draw without fully replicating the conditions.

So, with the understanding that we're not fully replicating the conditions, we can conduct initial testing via pulling fuses, putting the amp-meter inline on that circuit, and subsequently measuring amperage pull after a given time period.

The other approach is, using educated guesses, pull a different fuse each night and seeing whether the battery goes dead. If the battery ceases to be dead on a particular fuse, then this greatly narrows down the list of suspect systems.

 

[pedrito0906]

It's not draining current from any relay, I started the car with a paper clip, removing the ignition relay and making a jumper between the two contacts. I tried other relays and the problem is same, for some reason the car is not sending current to the relay that close the circuit to send power to the starter motor. The ignition power button is bad? Who know...

 

[Intuit]

What is the name of the relay; where is it located ?

 

[neeqness]

Did you check the fuses related to the issue?

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

 

[pedrito0906]

I think is called " Engine ignition inhibitor" but it's not the relay because I tested with another relay and the problem persisted. So I think (because I'm not a mechanic, just a simple engineer XD) that the problem is on the path from the start/stop button to the clutch sensor to the relay. Right???