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Car won't start/crank when let alone for more than 6 hurs.

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#1
Hi all:

My car is a 2015 with 16k miles on it. When I try to start the car in the mornings before going to work, the start/stop button works, I see all the lights in the dash but the car won't crank, I have the same problem in the afternoons when I'm off work in the parking lot. The only way to start it is by pushing it and letting the clutch out.

Once I'm driving the car for more that 30 mins, it starts when I press the button like normal, it's weird. I've had this problem since two months ago, in the dealership they tested the battery, cables and were fine, they changed the BCM telling me that was fixed, but the problem continuous. Have this ever happened to anyone?

Thanks,
 


TyphoonFiST

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#2
Replace the key Fob remote battery if you already havent.....these cars with push button start eat batteries due to the fact the Key Fob is always constantly searching for the car and which means it's always emitting/on a frequency for the vehicle. Mine would do nothing....not even crank. Replaced the Key fob battery and away I went. Mine was around the same mileage as yours when it did. Just food for thought....

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Thread Starter #3
Replace the key Fob remote battery if you already havent.....these cars with push button start eat batteries due to the fact the Key Fob is always constantly searching for the car and which means it's always emitting/on a frequency for the vehicle. Mine would do nothing....not even crank. Replaced the Key fob battery and away I went. Mine was around the same mileage as yours when it did. Just food for thought....

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Thanks or the reply but the battery is new, besides it's only when the car is cold.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#4
The key fob battery is brand new? Like you put it in New?

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TyphoonFiST

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#6
Key Fob issue with the RKE MODULE

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neeqness

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#7
The lights won't come on if it were a key fob issue though. I remember when my key fob battery was low that the start button wouldn't work sometimes. With me sitting right in the car. Had to pull the fob out my pocket and place it near the sensor.

It could be that the car is not grounded properly. You could check your battery cables and common grounds for a good connection.

Or it could be something is not turning off when the car is off. Actually there are a lot of things it could be. You may have to take it in to have the electrical system checked to find where the "leak" is coming from.

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CanadianGuy

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#8
Sorry sound like a dead car battery replace it. The cold cranking amps are just not there. To prove me wrong disconnect the battery at night or day. If when you rare connect it you can start it normal then you have a current drain. Only other thing is can think is the battery negative hard point on the chassis may not be solid (corrosion). There was talk of this in the early models that the screw was not byting. I undid mine and added diecltiric
 


TyphoonFiST

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#9
Why would you use dielectric grease?

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TyphoonFiST

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#11
Ok...good answer ...alot of people think the opposite of dielectric grease like it's conductive and increases contact...when it's made to stop electricity.

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CanadianGuy

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#12
Ok...good answer ...alot of people think the opposite of dielectric grease like it's conductive and increases contact...when it's made to stop electricity.

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Well I am an electronic engineer by training so I know. Teacher explained it as die electric as in kill electric paths. So it has always stuck. I use the stuff on connections to make them easier to disconnect, not just in automotive. Appliance plugs can arc like crazy so they get some to.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #13
I took the car to a well known auto parts, the person showed me with a big scanner that was the starter, when gets hot works well, but when cools down, doesn't let current flow. It's funny how the dealership didn't find this problem.

I ended up buying the starter by myself on the internet, otherwise I'll have to wait two weeks for the appointment + one month for sure for the starter to arrive + they don't have cars to provide in the mean time, yeah I know, dealerships in Puerto Rico are that shitty. Comparing that, against in with one week I'l have the new starter mounted in the car and only will spend $160 including labor. I'll keep the post updated.
 


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Thread Starter #15
The starter was changed wih a new one and the problem persists. Maybe the Neutral switch of the clutch?, the ignition button not recognizing the keyfob? the keyfob losing the programming? I'll take the car to another dealership early tomorrow without an appointment to see what they can tell me.
 


neeqness

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#16
One way to test the key fob battery is to walk a good distance away and see how close you need to get before the car recognizes a signal and/or if you have to press the button multiple times for it to work fairly consistently.

The batteries are pretty cheap though and you could also test the voltage with an electrical tester if you have one handy.

But if this doesn't solve it, I would have the eletrical system checked...otherwise you could wind up spending more money paying to "fix" components that were working fine than to have the test done in the first place. If you have an electrical tester you could use it to test for any issues...it's an interesting endeavor but perhaps not for the weak of heart.

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TyphoonFiST

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#17
Did you try your other don't? Maybe an issue with the RKE MODULE....

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OP
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Ok this is interesting, I'm in the dealership and when the person sits in the car to move it and.......... the car starts. Maybe interference with my phone idk. I explained that the car sometimes didn't start, so they are going to check the start/stop button.
 


WAM

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#19
Subbed to see how it comes out. Just a thought on the fobs -- can we keep track of from how far away we can lock and unlock the car to check the fob battery condition?
 


neeqness

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Subbed to see how it comes out. Just a thought on the fobs -- can we keep track of from how far away we can lock and unlock the car to check the fob battery condition?
I mainly just go from my personal experience during normal operation of the fob, but I'm sure we all probably use our fobs differently. Some may wait till they get right up to the car and others may try to use it as soon as the car is visible. This strategy works best though with the latter because a loss in power will be more noticeable, sooner, during that form of "normal" use.

However, if you notice the car not unlocking or locking when it should and/or that you are having to press multiple times to get the fob to work (sort of like with a remore control), it is also a sign that the battery could be getting low. Especially if the car is relatively new. Having to place your fob near the sensor to get the car to start is another sign.

While it is true that the sensors themselves could be the cause, this is also much less likely...besides battery replacement is a lot easier and cheaper to do. Barring using an electrical tester or having it tested first, I'd rather change the battery and then find out later that it was the sensor, than changing the sensor and then finding out that it was the fob battery.


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