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Sync is Dead

Intuit

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#21
Did this happen on a turn also? Where is your coolant level ? Do you have proper drainage from the reservoir beneath the hood ?

Most voltage testers these days have an amp-meter built into them.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Digital-Multimeter/50081424
Unfortunately most are also limited to just 10A, as seen in the product photo.

Anyway, start by either turning off and/or disconnecting each device on that fuse circuit. A manual will be needed to see exactly which devices are on that circuit.

Next place the volt-meter in-line with the fuse on that circuit.

Then, one-by-one, you can add each device back to the circuit while monitoring amp-draw. When you get to a device that is drawing more power than it is independently speced to do, you have found a suspect. Remove that device from the circuit and continue to add any remaining back, still monitoring amp draw.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #22
Thanks for the ideas. The fuse is labeled stereo and sync only. Can you turn off sync and still listen to the radio?
How would coolent effect electrical circuits?

I need someone with more knowledge than me to look at it. I just don't want to pay $139 an hour.
 


Intuit

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#23
Just a probe question to help ascertain whether liquid may have been allowed into the cabin area. Any drinks spilled in the vehicle? Does removing F26 have any impact on F10 amp draw?

Does the horn work? When the radio is powered, do the steering controls work? Does the fuse blow when turning the wheel from lock to lock?

Any codes stored in Sync? Ever smell anything unusual?

Unfortunately no one is going to be able to hand you an answer on this. It will require investigation.

If you can find some other systems that are malfunctioning, that may help provide clues. Wire harnesses provide a means of potential intersect for many different fused circuits/systems.

Here are some diagrams...
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhsZJDCN8kMMi1j-snLEKizuPCVi
 


OP
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Thread Starter #24
Yes it's out of my league. I'll try to take it somewhere next week.
My steering wheel cruise controls still work. So does everything else that I can tell.

the only the that I can think of is something was jarred loose after hitting at high speed a variety of bumps dips and potholes the last six months. Either that or something was rubbing and allowed circuits to become frayed.
 


neeqness

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#25
Interesting that you have nearly the exact year, mileage, and listening habits. Mostly bluetooth with little cd. I will be watching and hoping this same thing doesn't happen to me too...

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
 


OP
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Thread Starter #27
Is that what Ford calls the traction control button? Hit it once and I sign says sport mode, hold it down and you get a sign ESC off.
 


jmrtsus

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#28
If the fuse takes a while to blow then you don't have a short in the wiring. You have a component that slowly builds up an increase in current. In electronics this usually is caused by components that are defective. Does the fuse blow if you only use the audio no matter what the source? That would exclude the sources as likely problems. So if both the radio and CD player causes the fuse to blow the common component is the audio amps. If you have not done any work on the car's audio wiring the odds of a wire wearing out the insulation and occasionally touching a bare metal part of the chassis is pretty unlikely. The audio amps are the only high current devices in the system. Do you hear any increase or decrease in volume or distortion before the fuse blows? Most digital amp "chips" have thermal overload protection if they get too hot from too much current will shutdown but not normally blow fuses. I think you will end up replacing the whole unit. If you are not well versed in doing electrical and mechanical work on car interiors you will be stuck paying someone, I would search out an independant auto sound place with a good reputation and take it there. If they say the system is bad find one in a junk yard and have them install it.

There is not a cheap and easy answer to this one other than all things electronic fail, in general I think from the lack of people raising hell about the system they are probably not something that fails often. The term MTBF or mean time between failure is available for almost all electronics components to insure the devices will last in something expected to be used for a long time. Yes electronics is a commercial venture and you can have the same function in multiple chips but quality determines the MTBF and you pay for it. Expressed in hours a MTBF of 100,000 hours sounds good but if you have 100,000 units out there it means 1 will fail every hour! It can also be said if you buy one you only have a 1 in 100,000 chance of failure in 11.5 years of continuous 24 hours a day use. Any way you look at it stay out of Vegas as I think it is just a case of bad luck.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #30
Took it to a dealer after speaking with three service advisors. If there was any way it was caused by a computer or sensor in the power train it would be covered in warranty.
Dealer check it out the electrical codes and LCD all checked out. Stereo ran at the dealer for about an hour on its third fuse without blowing. Then the dealer called Ford. They ran some other tests....
With other test completed its likely it is the accessory protocall interface module that controls the sync system which in inside of the stereo unit behind the dash. Quoted 600 for a new unit and 900 tax labor installed. I declined.

Interesting note: if I buy a new unit it has a 2 year unlimited mile warranty, but the same unit with the more expensive car as a whole only comes with a 36k mile warranty.
 


Intuit

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#32
Forums often have a buy/sell section.
Assuming this one has one, post a thread headed: "WTB: 2014 Sync" or similar but appropriate heading.

Someone with a wrecked ride will probably be more than happy to oblige a fellow FiSTer.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #33
I'm looking at variety of options now. Most will have to wait till June.
 


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