So besides the tinted windows, my first mod on my FiST was a sub. Easy enough install, b piller line out converter, sub and amp... it was fine... for a year, but now it's about to be summer and I have determined, I need better speakers but I want it to be good. And with my experience in sound mods in the past, just plugging in New speakers is never enough, so here is what I'm thinking
A JL AUDIO FIX86 digital sound processor to fix the signal and feed to the
5 channel amp that will power
My existing sub
A pair of component speakers to the front
A pair of coaxial speakers in the back
Sound deading for all doors.
So here are a few questions or things I'm wondering as I try to plan this out.
I was thinking of getting the input signals for the DSP from the factory speaker wires so I don't have to deal with getting behind the dash (haven't seen any good write ups on this anyway.) But. It seems like a lot of wire to run. Literally 2 pairs of wire to each speaker? (One for the input to the DSP and one for output from amp to speaker) I mean, it is what it is, if I need it then that's what I'll do but, is there a smarter way? (I would still like the option of fading front and rear, and overall the most OEM integration possible)
The DPS has an input for factory sub but since that doesn't exist, it should separate the full range signal automatically correct?
A JL AUDIO FIX86 digital sound processor to fix the signal and feed to the
5 channel amp that will power
My existing sub
A pair of component speakers to the front
A pair of coaxial speakers in the back
Sound deading for all doors.
So here are a few questions or things I'm wondering as I try to plan this out.
I was thinking of getting the input signals for the DSP from the factory speaker wires so I don't have to deal with getting behind the dash (haven't seen any good write ups on this anyway.) But. It seems like a lot of wire to run. Literally 2 pairs of wire to each speaker? (One for the input to the DSP and one for output from amp to speaker) I mean, it is what it is, if I need it then that's what I'll do but, is there a smarter way? (I would still like the option of fading front and rear, and overall the most OEM integration possible)
The DPS has an input for factory sub but since that doesn't exist, it should separate the full range signal automatically correct?