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Changed Brake Pads.. Now it sounds like it's constantly rubbing on the rotor?

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#1
So, I just changed my brakepads and now my rear passenger (maybe driver as well) wheel well is making noises. I think it's because the brakepads are rubbing against the rotors. I asked my dad (via phone) and he thinks I need to change the calipers because they were pretty tough to retract the piston. I followed this thread's advice and purchased the cubed tool listed here: http://fiestast.net/threads/front-rear-brake-endurance-pad-install-ducts-thoughts.2105/

Here's a video of the noise. [video=youtube;gbw5lPvQ7Jo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?edit=vd&v=gbw5lPvQ7Jo[/video]

I also mounted and balanced new tires.

Tires: kumho ecsta ps31

pads: ebc yellowstuff

I did not bleed the brake fluid.

Any ideas why it's making this sound and how to fix it? First time using the cube tool in the thread above. Not sure if I retracted the pistons enough?
 


TyphoonFiST

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#2
Did you change the rotors? If not....why Not? We're your old rotors grooved....rusty or have a nice ridge on the outside edge? I know mine did at 28k.....so I changed both pads and rotors out....lubed the pins up for the calipers....reassembled and never looked back. If you didn't change the rotors out....quit trying to be frugal and change them out....your car deserves it. I know mine did and I didn't go cheap either on pads and rotors in any means and don't regret it one bit.๐Ÿ–’

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OP
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Thread Starter #3
Old rotors seemed fine. Only autocrossed it once. I changed the pads at 38k with mostly highway driving. Pads were in pretty good condition, too. It did rain when I had the car on jack stands for two days. Rotors got a little rusted, but I thought it didn't look bad.

No real grooves on the rotors and the lip didn't really develop yet.

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TyphoonFiST

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#4
Seemed fine? Did you mic. Them? Rotors are cheap....should be done with every brake job...IMO. rear Calipers should have gone back into the Bore with some resistance but if you really had to reef on them I'd say it's time to replace them. Check out Rock auto for them....usually are cheap ....i have a 2015...they are $55 w $50 core at rock auto. Shit you can even get the red painted ones for around $80 per caliper. If you wanna be in the performance game be ready to pay...๐Ÿ•บ

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Plainrt

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#5
Rear calipers on these seem to be tough to turn in all the time. Did you check the caliper slides to make
Sure they are all moving proper and
Not stuck?
 


TyphoonFiST

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#6
Lubing these pins is very crucial to proper caliper operation....if this step was skipped or 1 out if the 4 were stuck and you thought it would be alright.....eeeehhhh....wrong....all pins need to be lubed and move freely or the bracket and pins need to be replaced.....dont cheap out in grease either get some silaramic grease for pins....it melts off at higher temps and will last longer than other silicone grease types...๐Ÿ–’

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BRGT350

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#7
When you retract the pistons, it is best to open the cap on the brake reservoir to relieve the pressure. You could open the bleed screw as well. Just remember that the bleed screw being open will suck air into the caliper and you need to bleed them. I did my brakes a few weeks ago and the rear calipers were tough to get started for retraction. The driver's side one never retracted and was replaced. The passenger side one took a little effort at first, and then rotated nicely until it was fully retracted. No issues up front, both could be easy pushed back.

Spot on about the guide pins, they need to be well greased to make sure the caliper moved in and out properly. Also make sure the pads have grease where they sit in the bracket.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #8
Well, seems like it's time to buy new rotors.

I actually did not lube the pins. I greased the pads though. I opened the brake fluid caps when I was retracting the pistons. I'll report back after I fix my mistake. Thanks, guys.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#11
Use a micrometer to see how much metal is left. The rotors themselves do where down just like pads and lose their ability to dissipate heat adequately like they did when they were new.

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#12
Im pretty positive its the rotors, especially if you had the more aggressive stock pads (summer tire package) I did 18k of commuting only and all 4 rotors were shot.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #13
Ordered Rotors from THmotorsports. Should be in next weeks. Thanks, yall.
 




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