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What Clutches to Use?

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Stem
#1
Hi Everyone,

I took my FiST stock to 60,000 mi in the last 2 years. Now my clutch is starting to slip on heavy torque. So it's time to replace (even though it seems a bit early). I drive my car pretty hard everyday - it's my favorite car after all!

So since i'm now breaking the strand of OEM i'm going to do some minor bolt-ons and tune. So now I have to pick my Clutch. I'm debating on a SPEC 2+ or possibly the SPEC stage 3. Can anyone speak to how they liked it? I really have no desire to go with a lightweight flywheel. Mods on their way now:

  • Cobb Access Port
  • 2J Cowl Intake
  • Catless Downpipe
  • Rear Motor Mount
  • Deadhook Race Intercooler (assuming they have some instock)
  • Tial BOV
  • Symposer Delete

I might do an exhaust, but I think the exhaust sounds pretty impressive stock when it's opened up. Anyways let me know - If I get some good vibes, I'll probably video it and post video tutorial about removing the transmission to replace the clutch and change some of these components. Thanks All!

-Lance
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
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#2
If not going big turbo then go with another stock clutch. You are basically stage 3 which the stock clutch can handle(when new). You cant beat the stocker for reliability and ease of installation.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #3
Wow-Finally a Response! Thank you!
Well that's great to hear, so whats the best site to order a stock clutch on? And curious how the prices compare to that of aftermarket.
 


Capri to ST

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#4
Wow-Finally a Response! Thank you!
Well that's great to hear, so whats the best site to order a stock clutch on? And curious how the prices compare to that of aftermarket.
Tasca Parts is a respected vendor on here-
http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2016/ford/fiesta/st-trim/1-6l-l4-gas-engine/clutch-cat

I haven't ordered from them, but I called about some TPMS sensors when I thought I'd need them for aftermarket wheels, and they were helpful and had competitive prices.

This is the thread with the contact info for their rep here on the forum-
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/10936-Contact-info-for-me
 


OP
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Thread Starter #5
Tasca Parts is a respected vendor on here-
http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2016/ford/fiesta/st-trim/1-6l-l4-gas-engine/clutch-cat

I haven't ordered from them, but I called about some TPMS sensors when I thought I'd need them for aftermarket wheels, and they were helpful and had competitive prices.

This is the thread with the contact info for their rep here on the forum-
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/10936-Contact-info-for-me
Awesome thank you! I will try to reach out to them tomorrow. I actually went to their site and saw that the clutch was no longer listed. They had flywheel, forks, etc, but no clutch. Unless I just mis-interpret the pacakages. Still waiting to hear back from DHM if I can get the race intercooler or not.
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
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#6
PM or call them. They will ask for a VIN number. Give them the VIN number and buy the clutch kit off them. I dont know about the flywheel though as its a dual mass flywheel. Sometimes its better to pony up for a new flywheel than have the old one resurfaced. Also remember to get a new throw out bearing. They are cheap insurance from squeaks and rattles after a new clutch install.

C1BZ-7B546-G should be the clutch and pressure plate kit. $86.20 from Tasca Ford Parts. Seems cheap so i would ask them if it includes both clutch disk and pressure plate. Since the flywheel is sprung and the cluch disk is not is maybe the reason why it is so cheap.

C1BZ-6477-B should be the flywheel. $209.68 from Tasca. Sounds about right.

DG9Z-7A564-B should be the slave cylinder/throwout bearing. I always install a new slave cylinder when doing a clutch.

Double check the parts with Tasca or your local Ford dealer before buying. These are just the numbers i found while searching the Tasca website.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #8
Just a quick Follow-up. I have emailed and messaged DHM two weeks ago still no response. Just emailed TASCA yesterday. So will let everyone know how things work out. I will plan to go with an OEM clutch kit for now. Hopefully it will support the additional toque values i'm expecting to see.
 


Hijinx

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#9
Spec Stage 3 with the lightweight flywheel or stock. Even the stock clutch can withstand a big turbo set up. It's been said a lot, but worth reiterating that the 1/4 mile record holder is still on his stock. He's around 40-50k miles, IIRC.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #10
Ok Team, I'm back from traveling! Thank you for the recommendation on TASCA. I ordered a Flywheel, Clutch/Pressure plate combo, slave cylinder, and even new hardware - for substantially less than the Stage 3 I might add!

I will get my video stuff up and running and will record the switch out. Will probably video the downpipe first, then do the clutch another weekend. I need to see if the RMM is even worth replacing or just lifting and re-setting the current rear.

My last challenge is finding a big intercooler. It seems DHM website is down and still no response if they are going to offer one again. So i'm up for suggestions on an intercooler and any next modifications... What I have is below:
 


kevinatfms

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#11
Depo intercooler is great. Not a "big" version but substantial decrease in air temps according to the Access Port.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


OP
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Thread Starter #12
Depo intercooler is great. Not a "big" version but substantial decrease in air temps according to the Access Port.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the suggestion - I'm going to probably get that one. Looks a lot better too than the 2J unit. Alright - off to install a DP!
 


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Langley
#13
Does anyone else have any clutch recommendations? I'd love to get the one that Mountune offers in the UK, but alas, not in North America. I'm looking for a reputable company (Mountune level) and costing isn't really a big deal since it doesn't vary too much on clutches.
 


kevinatfms

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#14
What are your plans? The stock clutch is a very stout unit that can hold a ton of power. No need to upgrade unless you are pushing SERIOUS power. As said before, stock 1/4 mile record holder was on stock clutch for his pass.

Money is better spent elsewhere.
 


Carlos41

New Member
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Newburgh, NY, USA
#15
If cost is not an issue I would recommend stage 3 or 3+ from my understanding the stock can hold some pretty serious torque when new or in great condition but its not always going to stay in New or great condition after daily driving. The stage 3 or 3+ will hold a substantial amount of torque throughout its entire operation rather than just when new or in great condition. For my 16 FiST I went with a lightweight and a 3+ and I gotta say its probably the best spent money. The take off compared to my brother's FiST which has the same upgrades I have is a massive difference and each shift I throw I pull ever so much ahead. I say its worth it most people don't agree but that race showed just how much I shouldn't listen to most people 🤣🤣

And yes I know this post is 3 years old but still this debate continues even until today
 


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#16
The problem with racing parts is that they will be designed for one specific task, that is GRIP, at full engagement at torque levels much higher than stock. In getting there that means that there will be compromises in other aspects. Meaning they will not last as long as the OEM clutch. I will also note that if you managed to burn up an OEM clutch in just 60,000 miles you may want to consider some driving lessons in how to properly use a clutch. This are NOT a simple replacement and will be rather expensive to pay to have done.
 




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