• Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features

    Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!


1 year of ownership maintenance review

Messages
49
Likes
9
Location
Washington
#1
So it's been one year since I drove it off the lot. The car had a tick over 9000 miles on it and was in otherwise immaculate condition. The used price was already decent and they dropped it another $500 from the online listing when I showed up. But I knew they had wiggle room. However not being too experienced in the art of negotiation, they gave me the usual dealer run around, but I was happy to drive the car off the lot more than trying to play their game. Perhaps later in years I can build up the confidence to walk away from a deal but I already passed up on a Race Red Fiesta ST which looking back, is the "one that got away."

Anyway, the good:
The dealer, Ted Britt Ford in Fairfax VA (which is where the original owner purchased it), was a great asset and takes care of their customers, even if I'm not the original owner.

The bad:
Here is all the warranty work within the first 4 months, 5,000 miles of ownership:
  • Door mode actuator (there's a sticky), replaced
  • Timing cover oil leak, cover + gasket replaced
  • Side skirt adhesive coming undone, painted new side skirt and replaced - also made a return trip for the stone guard (clear film) to be reapplied!
Keep in mind, the car only had its 2nd oil change in all that time! All the repairs required the car to be in the dealer's possession for at least 2 days. Luckily, this dealer offers a free loaner car. Unlickly you have to drive around in not-your-car for what seems like forever. Also, the adhesive for the side skirt is still coming undone, so I'm predicting another 3 days i'll be without my car.

Current issues:
  • on hot days the radio just cuts out. no power. i have to press the power button to get my tunes back. [chair]
  • 15,000 miles the rear pads had 6/32" (< 5mm) left, dealer recommended replacement at 3/32" (< 3mm) [shameful]
  • 17,000 miles on the clutch and it definitely doesn't have the same "bite" as new. i thought the engagement was vague when i first bought it, now it's a guessing game.[dunno]
Needless to say, the first year of ownership I felt like I was driving a ticking time bomb. Now its kind of calm...hopefully I didn't jinx myself.

Some tips:
  • A service writer who also owns an ST as well can be helpful and will usually sympathize with your problem
  • Shop around, take advantage of the dealer network (you paid for it)
  • Extended warranty suddenly looking very good
  • Brake dust is your enemy, wash frequently. Unless its pretty caked on, no need for expensive brake cleaners--just use an old rag dedicated for brakes and some car wash soap. empty the bucket and wash the rag once you're done, don't use it on the paint.
  • Plan ahead, depending on availability of parts you car may be in the shop for a few days
Hope this helps you keep an eye out for certain issues and to avoid some headaches.
 


Last edited:

BRGT350

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,075
Likes
762
Location
Grand Haven
#2
Coming up on 3 years and 33,000 miles and the only issue so far was a stuck caliper and rear guide pins at 32k. For brake dust, I use Carbon Collective wheel sealant and it makes cleaning much easier. Switching pads made the biggest difference.
 


Messages
151
Likes
22
Location
Malibu
#3
Leaky Sunroof
Same Radio Problem of it shutting off randomly for no reason
Blend door clicking
2 different tpms tire sensors
Front pads at 23,000 miles, rear pads are about done.
Same feeling about the clutch at 30,000 miles
Quite a few straight to the metal rock chips on the front end.
Passenger window switch failed around 25,000 miles

0 engine issues, sees redline regularly. I get about 5k out of front tires if I dont rotate them. 12K a set if rotated.

Just barely over 30k right now 2015, thank God its a lease
 


Messages
507
Likes
74
Location
Fairfax
#4
You all must beat the piss out of your car's, or just really picky. I'm on my third ST and have had 0 issues with any of them. First one had 36k when I got rid of it, second one had 16k and current has 10k.
 


Waterfan

Active member
Messages
565
Likes
171
Location
SoCal
#5
Acquired my 2014 CPO with 17k miles. Approaching 36k miles and end of B2B extended warranty (i.e. 19k of my own). Total "issues" in those 19k miles were:
-Blend door actuator replaced under warranty
-Battery replaced under warranty
-Front pads replaced, Front rotors turned (wear items, out-of-pocket)
-Waiting on Dealer receipt of parts to perform Coolant Level Sensor recall

I consider all of the above extremely minor/normal. I was pleasantly surprised the battery was a warranty repair. At approximately 1.5 years of ownership, overall the car is still way too much fun. Condolences to others that are having additional or extended issues.
 


Messages
446
Likes
164
Location
Arlington, VA
#6
So besides the fact that the car is falling apart, would you recommend Ted Britt for maintenance stuff? I've been struggling to find a dealer around here I trust. The techs at Koons in Falls Church are idiots.
 


OP
M
Messages
49
Likes
9
Location
Washington
Thread Starter #7
So besides the fact that the car is falling apart, would you recommend Ted Britt for maintenance stuff? I've been struggling to find a dealer around here I trust. The techs at Koons in Falls Church are idiots.
I guess this should've been titled "Warranty" review rather than maintenance review. So far the only maintenance I've done thru Ted Britt is 2 oil changes/tire rotations. They are not bad as they haven't pushed as much extraneous work as some other dealers. Once its out of warranty I'll take over those duties myself. If you didn't buy the car from Ted Britt, you might not get the same level of service. Their "Ted Britt 4 Life" program is really only good for cars sold by them but it couldn't hurt to ask.

You all must beat the piss out of your car's, or just really picky. I'm on my third ST and have had 0 issues with any of them. First one had 36k when I got rid of it, second one had 16k and current has 10k.
I don't really drive the "piss" out of it, but I do have fun in it. Even if I drove the piss out of it, the 30 second long, rapid clicking from the HVAC, every time you start the car would not be related to my driving style. I would hardly call that being picky either; why wouldn't I want my HVAC to work correctly, or fix an oil leak in a new car?
 


Messages
507
Likes
74
Location
Fairfax
#8
Not sure y'all. Like I said, I'm on my third one, you would think I would have had some issues if it was a build issue.
 


Messages
20
Likes
7
Location
San Antonio
#9
2014 Fiesta ST, purchased new with 210 transport miles
Averaging 1,100 miles/month or ~13k miles/year
Purpose: Daily Driver, wife and I are avid autocrossers with different cars but we have our fun in the corners in the FiST, we don't roast the tires.

Intervals
Oil and Oil-filter Change: 5k miles
Tire Rotation: 5k miles
Engine Air Filter: 15k miles

Maintenance
28,000
- Replaced front rotors & pads. (Motorcraft BRRF-206, Mountune RS-R front pads)

36,850
- Replaced Heater Blend Door (Motorcraft YH1935)
- Cleaned battery terminal corrosion
- Replaced OEM Bridgestone tires with 3/32" left in them (Firestone Firehawk Wide Oval Indy 500 tires, they're alright)

40,280
- Replaced broken driver-side fog light housing (a rock I'm assuming)
- Installed Mishimoto Oil Catch Can

42,650
- Replaced windshield wipers (Motorcraft WW1613 & WW2430)
- Replaced Cabin Air Filter (was pretty bad, need shorter interval)

46,000
- Replaced crappy OEM lug nuts with Gorilla splines

Edit: Updated 04/02/2018

48,182 (August 2017)
- Centric 30808860 StopTech Street brake pads (rear)
- Replaced rotors as well

50,000 (October 2017)
- New Battery (Duracell 47(H5)AGM) Search for my post on how to install this AGM battery.
 


Last edited:
OP
M
Messages
49
Likes
9
Location
Washington
Thread Starter #10
Just updating year 2:

20,000 miles, replaced front brake pads and rotors (pads were down to the backing--there are not squeal indicators--and rotors had a deep lip around the edge)

Warranty issues:
24,500 miles, lug nuts are swollen. cannot fit any socket or the included OEM wrench just barely fits over the cap. The dealer said the lugs aren't bad and that the lug wrench is cheap and unreliable and that I need more expensive sockets. HELLO...MCFLY...that's the manufacturer tool included for emergency use and you're telling me it's no good? No replacement under warranty. Very annoyed.

Ongoing issues:
The clutch is anybody's guess now. I cannot get good feel in the pedal and as I lift my foot during a down shift it sounds like i'm slapping the transmission around. I don't know how else to describe it; but imagine the car going over a pot hole on every other down shift. I just kind of deal with it because if I need to overtake on the highway, that's about the only time it doesn't happen.

Rear brakes need replacing but I don't trust my ability to torque the lug nuts to spec on defective lug nuts. am currently shopping for cheap lug nuts from our forum vendors, but it looks like most of them sell the more expensive aftermarket style.
 


Ford ST

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,921
Likes
3,051
Location
Pleasant Garden
#11
Just updating year 2:

20,000 miles, replaced front brake pads and rotors (pads were down to the backing--there are not squeal indicators--and rotors had a deep lip around the edge)

Warranty issues:
24,500 miles, lug nuts are swollen. cannot fit any socket or the included OEM wrench just barely fits over the cap. The dealer said the lugs aren't bad and that the lug wrench is cheap and unreliable and that I need more expensive sockets. HELLO...MCFLY...that's the manufacturer tool included for emergency use and you're telling me it's no good? No replacement under warranty. Very annoyed.

Ongoing issues:
The clutch is anybody's guess now. I cannot get good feel in the pedal and as I lift my foot during a down shift it sounds like i'm slapping the transmission around. I don't know how else to describe it; but imagine the car going over a pot hole on every other down shift. I just kind of deal with it because if I need to overtake on the highway, that's about the only time it doesn't happen.

Rear brakes need replacing but I don't trust my ability to torque the lug nuts to spec on defective lug nuts. am currently shopping for cheap lug nuts from our forum vendors, but it looks like most of them sell the more expensive aftermarket style.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H...ebp_QL65&keywords=DPAccessories+D3116-HT-2305

I have these lug nuts on a 2010 Ford Focus they are one piece, they are a little bit longer so they may be flush with the wheel instead of recessed maybe they make a shorter one.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 


Messages
366
Likes
280
Location
BC, Canada
#12
I cannot get good feel in the pedal and as I lift my foot during a down shift it sounds like i'm slapping the transmission around.
Yeah, sounds familiar. The initial bite point is undetectable and when you do feel it, its already too late and you get that harsh engagement sensation. I think that's because gearbox is taking up the slack so it doesn't offer much resistance. My foot eventually just sort of learned that point and as I'm releasing the pedal, I stop there for a split second and then release completely. The end result is still hit and miss but it helps. Also, I found that shifting at higher RPMs makes the engagement a little bit more tactile.
 


Similar threads



Top