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Troubling Trans Noise from Relatively New FiST

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#1
Hey Everyone,

I've been able to brush a transmission noise off as "normal" for a little while now but since I was able to recreate it multiple times yesterday, I decided to post and get some guidance.

  • 2016 Magnetic FiST
  • 3,XXX miles
  • No modifications other than a gas pedal spacer
I tried to use the search function to find somebody with a similar problem, but either i'm using the wrong terms or it has not been discussed yet

Basically, I would hear a "clunk" noise periodically when I would pressing/releasing the clutch pedal in a 1-2 shift. When moving the gearshift, no noise would occur. Yesterday, I found the noise to be apparent in the following situations:

  • Depressing/releasing the clutch pedal
  • Moving the gear shift (1-2 and 2-3)
  • Applying/releasing the throttle in a somewhat abrupt fashion (I was trying to create the noise)

The strange thing about yesterday, was that it was occurring when shifting from 2-3 and even 3-4. Also, when cranking my wheel while reversing from my garage (going from a flat surface to a decline), I am occasionally hearing some light popping. I've inspected the drive axles without removing wheels or jacking the car up and see no evidence of damage or "weeping" fluid.

On a side note, is anybody's throttle response affected in a pretty substantial way when the car is warming up? Mine is especially evident in first gear.

Have any of you encountered similar situations? If so could you offer potential cause/solutions? I took a video of the noise, but cannot post at the moment.
 


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#2
Likely it is the motor mount. Lots of threads on here talk about movement under shifting/accelerating. Try and get a Mountune or Cobb motor mount, it will likely solve the issue, it did for me
 


OP
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Thread Starter #3
Hmm that would make sense since it occurs not only when shifting but when throttle inputs are given. Any input on the other two items?
 


jeffreylyon

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#4
I had the same issue. It turned out to be the passenger's side half shaft - the CV joint was clicking back and forth with small changes in torque and position. Now the same thing is happening on the driver's side.
 


M-Sport fan

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#5
I had the same issue. It turned out to be the passenger's side half shaft - the CV joint was clicking back and forth with small changes in torque and position. Now the same thing is happening on the driver's side.
Did your problem start occurring as soon (low) in mileage as appst8's did?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #6
I had the same issue. It turned out to be the passenger's side half shaft - the CV joint was clicking back and forth with small changes in torque and position. Now the same thing is happening on the driver's side.
Did you pursue a warranty claim to correct the problem?
 


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#9
Some clunking during shifts or when being too abrupt with the clutch/throttle is normal. It could just be normal sound from the shift linkage and/or the dual-mass flywheel, or something more serious depending on the type of sound and how loud it is. Dealer may be able to tell you.

The sound when turning the wheel and reversing may be something more serious. Maybe CV joints as someone suggested.

The poor throttle response when cold starting is normal.
 


LilPartyBox

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#10
I had the same issue. It turned out to be the passenger's side half shaft - the CV joint was clicking back and forth with small changes in torque and position. Now the same thing is happening on the driver's side.
Same here. Started at a very low mileage for me too. Occompanied by a wheel bearing like groan at highway speeds. I misdiagnosed it as tires and went through a couple sets. Didn't realize it was the axle until recently changing my oil and noticed the cv grease on the frame rails and turbo inlet. Have yet to take it in.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 


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Thread Starter #11
Update for anyone that's interested:

Dropped the car off at the dealer and despite not being able to re-create my problem, they are replacing the half-shafts as recommended in a TSB. Parts will be here today or Monday. I'll report back on the end-result.
 


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#12
Update for anyone that's interested:

Dropped the car off at the dealer and despite not being able to re-create my problem, they are replacing the half-shafts as recommended in a TSB. Parts will be here today or Monday. I'll report back on the end-result.
Do you have a TSB number or link? My dealer would likely do this too
 


OP
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Thread Starter #13
Not sure what the number is. The fact that this is a TSB came as a surprise to me as well. Iā€™ll ask when I drop the car off this week.
 


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#15
I showed the tsb to my dealership,and they wouldnt replace half shafts...said it's only for 2016 model I own a 2017
 


OP
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Thread Starter #17
They also blamed it on the dual mass flywheel it was a very lame expierence
I'm sorry to hear that. It seems the consensus around here is that dealer experiences related to warranty work can vary greatly. I'm really hoping this is the culprit for the clunk when I release the clutch pedal and occasionally when I shift 1-2 or 2-3. It's very bothersome. My window switch will no longer roll all the way down with one press, so that will be looked at too. My appointment is next week.
 


LilPartyBox

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#18
subd for the tsb. my passenger axle is losing grease and vibration on take off is getting a bit scary

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 


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#19
I'm sorry to hear that. It seems the consensus around here is that dealer experiences related to warranty work can vary greatly. I'm really hoping this is the culprit for the clunk when I release the clutch pedal and occasionally when I shift 1-2 or 2-3. It's very bothersome. My window switch will no longer roll all the way down with one press, so that will be looked at too. My appointment is next week.
You can reset that function for the windows. I don't recall if it is a setting in MFT/Sync or if it is a ten second push/pull on the switch, so search it and you'll probably come across an answer.
 


M-Sport fan

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#20
You can reset that function for the windows. I don't recall if it is a setting in MFT/Sync or if it is a ten second push/pull on the switch, so search it and you'll probably come across an answer.
There's no way to program the REAR windows to lower ALL of the way down, correct?

Is there a federally mandated internal block inside the door, on the regulator, or is it stopped electronically? [dunno]
 


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