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  1. #1
    Senior Member 752 Rep Points Fiesta ST of the Month Winner
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    Light Weight Wheels and why, add yours to the list, read the requirements first

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    Preface:

    Since weight is the mortal enemy of performance and more so unsprung weight, then adding rotational forces....light wheels and tires make a huge impact on all areas of setting up a fast car, acceleration, braking, handling, and include things like wear and tare on the chassis from bushings to the actual unibody....and effect fuel mileage, in a race car than can mean winning or losing a race......

    This is far more significant than sometimes considered but if you look into any serious racing program weight is always the most important and most costly in the super high end of things especially but it also matters to us, even if we do not fully realize it.

    SO, what do we do, we dig in, find the lightest wheels and tires that fit our needs and go forth knowing we made a wise decision based on real performance, simple as that.

    -----------------
    This will be updated, adjusted, etc as the inputs come in, always open to good ideas and more so to real world experience, never to old to learn.

    -----------------

    Rules of the road for inputs:

    Minimum width is 7"
    Maximum width is 9" for those willing to work over the fenders, etc....

    Maximum weight:
    15" wheels, under 14lbs
    16" wheels, under 16lbs
    17" wheels, under 18lbs

    -Actual weight per wheel in the particular offset absolutely required, see below about how to weigh wheels.
    -A wheel that takes a large amount of balance weights can be penalized for such an issue.
    -An 18lb wheel is not really a light weight wheel in a 17x8 or so, borderline but with so few wheels in 4x108 we have to have at least enough leeway to include a reasonable amount of choices, I highly recommend under 17lbs, less is even better:)

    Under $300 per wheel
    -You really do not gain anything but bragging rights spending more in most all cases I can imagine, no matter what some may spend on advertising.

    17" max diameter:
    -Because we simple do not have room for 18's due to gearing issues and rubber band tires which are not the best way to go.

    Max width, 9":
    Because that will take considerable effort, wider will take massive effort, wider will be considered if you can do so with some sort of reasonable effort, of course:)

    Tires:
    -This is about real performance and most often stance is about getting attention instead, we are real performance guys, right? lets keep it that way, no super stretch allowed.
    -Any tire you want to list is fine as long as a real performance tire, summer only, all season, winter, track....

    Alternate bolt patterns:
    -BY ALL MEANS, it is a relatively low cost way to open up a new world of low cost, light weight, well built wheels and more tire choices.

    Pictures:
    -Of course, submit them, subject to editing.

    Photoshop:
    -NEGATIVE, not allowed, unless it can be proven to be a real solution within these parameters.

    Slammed:
    -Same as stance, if you really want real performance you will not slam you car, it simply does not equate so of little use on this thread.
    I do not know how low we can go and have proper suspension geometry yet but some are working on that and I will as well then we can figure it out and let everyone know. Unlike some we will measure including tire diameter, etc, not just how far a pinch weld is from the ground.

    Other ways to save weight:
    -Aluminum valve stems
    -Light weight lug nuts(my favorite is the Gorilla short length, open end, spline drive, cheap, strong and easy to use, a bit of security, nearly as low in weight as a set of aluminum close end nuts I have, never one single issue, track, street. etc....

    Hub Centric:
    -True hub centric is preferred of course.
    -Rings work just fine but have to be tight tolerance and metal as plastics melts on the track, I know from experience.

    -------------

    HOW TO WEIGH A WHEEL:
    -Best, certified scale calibrated to weight lower weight items accurately is the best.
    -Bathroom scale will be allowed if care is taken and stated it was a bathroom scale, subject to correction when more accurate data is available.
    -How to use a batchroom scale,
    The most accurate way to use a bathroom scale is to put it on a level and solid surface so it will not rock, zero it out then weigh yourself, then yourself holding the wheels and subtract the difference.

    Repeat this at least one more time, if off repeat a third or fourth time until you get a stable reading, if that does not happen then average all the results.

    If access to more than one scale please use as many scales as you can and let it be known per scale and averaged.

    -----------------


    That is all I can think for now, let's make this a one stop place to really get to the point of picking the best wheels for your application, if performance is the goal. If you have other priorities then please start your own or contribute to an ongoing thread.

    Have a great new week!
    Rick
    2014 ST, Silver, Street/Track/Audio
    2012 Duramax Dually, Audio, Custom Leather, etc.....
    2012 Voltage 3905 Toyhauler, modded of course!

  2. #2
    Administrator Staff Team 500 Rep Points MKVIIST's Avatar
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    Great job Rick, I'll be adding to this as well. Lets try to also get some pictures posted too (Mounted or not).
    2014 Fiesta ST - Mountune Intake, Cobb Tune, 3M Clear Bra, 3M Window Tint, ESM Wheels, BC Coilovers, Bazooka Bass Tube, Rockford Fosgate Amp
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  3. #3
    Senior Member 752 Rep Points Fiesta ST of the Month Winner
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    I will post what I have already done and the 15x9, 13lb track wheels and tires I will be running very soon:)

    Look fast and be fast are not always mutually compatible, we can do both if we desire but it takes a bit more effort or restraint in some cases.

    I prefer to look nice but not to attention grabbing and be fast but in all ways, not just a straight line which to me is fun but far less than other ways of being fast.

    Not that I endorse it but I have gotten away, in the past, with a ton of pretty crazy stuff because my cars were not loud nor obviously looking to get noticed. I also did this by myself, away from endangering others, respecting my neighbors and especially their children, for hundreds of thousands of miles, sunny, rain, snow, gravel, dirt, on road, off road, mountain passes, in the air, etc......one fun run was 400 miles through Montana, gas stop, 2 mountain passes, bone stock 95 Tacoma 4 banger with 5 speed, under 3.8 hours....I also put on 50k miles in 6 months crossing WA State with a faster average and never got pulled over.....

    Anyway, back on topic, I am glad to see very little stance or ricer stuff on this forum, very cool group of real enthusiasts here:)

    Rick
    2014 ST, Silver, Street/Track/Audio
    2012 Duramax Dually, Audio, Custom Leather, etc.....
    2012 Voltage 3905 Toyhauler, modded of course!

  4. #4
    Vendor Premier Vendor 82 Rep Points PCA-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAAMaudio View Post

    Anyway, back on topic, I am glad to see very little stance or ricer stuff on this forum, very cool group of real enthusiasts here:)

    Rick
    Since you brought it up, there is nothing wrong with stance, which is a personal choice, and use of "rice" not a term used very little today in Ford Focus or Fiesta circles.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member 752 Rep Points Fiesta ST of the Month Winner
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    I beg to differ, this is a thread about performance, it others want to create and maintain a thread about stance over performance that is perfectly fine with me. There are many that just do not know the difference and thus we hope to help them understand. There are those that do know and choose their own path, that is cool, they can make their own thread.
    2014 ST, Silver, Street/Track/Audio
    2012 Duramax Dually, Audio, Custom Leather, etc.....
    2012 Voltage 3905 Toyhauler, modded of course!

  6. #6
    Senior Member 55 Rep Points Colin1337's Avatar
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    I'm rocking Motegi MR125's
    17x7.5
    42mm offset
    16.3lbs per wheel

    Stock tires for now, but when these die I want to get a 225/40 or 215/40 on all four wheels.

    Sitting on BC custom valved coilovers. Unfortunately I forgot to measure the height before I installed these.
    2011 Mustang GT 6spd
    Roush Axle back, Short shifter, 3.73 gears, AMR 18x9/10 wheels, Steeda tuned, JLT Carbon Fiber CAI, Boss 302 intake manifold, Roush rear valance, SCT x4

    2014 Fiesta ST (SOLD)
    194whp/250wtq
    Mountune AP | FSwerks Cool Flo Intake | 35/20 Tint | Milltek Catless DP | Motegi MR125's | Custom Valved BC coilovers | Custom 2.5" CBE | Levels Performance FMIC | COBB RMM

  7. #7
    Senior Member 752 Rep Points Fiesta ST of the Month Winner
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    I believe you have the best color available on these cars, it led me to abandon a $30k 332ti project and haul an ST back from CA to UT with some options I preferred to not have to pay for......:)

    I do have to say and I have to say before that I have not done the math yet but your car might be a bit lower than it should be for optimal handling, sure looks cool though!

    I came very close to buying a set of those wheels but my change to 4x100 made for more choices considering I was going to have track and street wheels and tires, good choice!
    2014 ST, Silver, Street/Track/Audio
    2012 Duramax Dually, Audio, Custom Leather, etc.....
    2012 Voltage 3905 Toyhauler, modded of course!

  8. #8
    Senior Member 55 Rep Points Colin1337's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAAMaudio View Post
    I believe you have the best color available on these cars, it led me to abandon a $30k 332ti project and haul an ST back from CA to UT with some options I preferred to not have to pay for......:)

    I do have to say and I have to say before that I have not done the math yet but your car might be a bit lower than it should be for optimal handling, sure looks cool though!
    Its actually a hair higher than that now, maybe 1/2 inch all around?
    I've just been to lazy to get a newer picture haha
    2011 Mustang GT 6spd
    Roush Axle back, Short shifter, 3.73 gears, AMR 18x9/10 wheels, Steeda tuned, JLT Carbon Fiber CAI, Boss 302 intake manifold, Roush rear valance, SCT x4

    2014 Fiesta ST (SOLD)
    194whp/250wtq
    Mountune AP | FSwerks Cool Flo Intake | 35/20 Tint | Milltek Catless DP | Motegi MR125's | Custom Valved BC coilovers | Custom 2.5" CBE | Levels Performance FMIC | COBB RMM

  9. #9
    Senior Member 752 Rep Points Fiesta ST of the Month Winner
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    Way back in the 70's I did lower my 510's a bit more than I should of because I just did not know better.

    Power was cray expensive, hardly any parts to mod the car so I made most of my own, tires were crap compared to now...but I had a huge amount of fun with my very lightened cars going all out to their best ability....

    Eventually I leaned about geometry and combined that with weight reduction, location, etc........
    2014 ST, Silver, Street/Track/Audio
    2012 Duramax Dually, Audio, Custom Leather, etc.....
    2012 Voltage 3905 Toyhauler, modded of course!

  10. #10
    Senior Member 752 Rep Points Fiesta ST of the Month Winner
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    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    I meant to say also that those are a very good choice in a lower weight, wider wheel and the color is great on the Silver car, my favorite combo in car and wheel color for the ST:)
    2014 ST, Silver, Street/Track/Audio
    2012 Duramax Dually, Audio, Custom Leather, etc.....
    2012 Voltage 3905 Toyhauler, modded of course!


 
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