Broke Something

[Reaper]

I picked up a left-over new 2016 and have autocrossed and rallycrossed it a couple times each. Less than 2000 miles on it currently. Last time out I noticed a clunk on hard throttle application, and now it clunks whenever I let out the clutch forward or reverse. Installing a Cobb RMM didn't change anything -- seems like something is moving and hitting. All the bolts in the passenger side upper mount are there and yanking on the motor doesn't give any noise or excess movement. I can't see the tranny side, but the noise seems to be coming more from the rear to passenger side.

Ford will probably take care of me, but I have an event this weekend. The dealer can't get me in. I guess I'll risk it. Any thoughts as to what it might be, or what else I can check? I changed the RMM back and forth again just to be sure I didn't miss something down there. Maybe it's an upper mount and I just don't know how to test it?

 

[TyphoonFiST]

RMM

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[koozy]

I picked up a left-over new 2016 and have autocrossed and rallycrossed it a couple times each. Less than 2000 miles on it currently. Last time out I noticed a clunk on hard throttle application, and now it clunks whenever I let out the clutch forward or reverse. Installing a Cobb RMM didn't change anything -- seems like something is moving and hitting. All the bolts in the passenger side upper mount are there and yanking on the motor doesn't give any noise or excess movement. I can't see the tranny side, but the noise seems to be coming more from the rear to passenger side.

Ford will probably take care of me, but I have an event this weekend. The dealer can't get me in. I guess I'll risk it. Any thoughts as to what it might be, or what else I can check? I changed the RMM back and forth again just to be sure I didn't miss something down there. Maybe it's an upper mount and I just don't know how to test it?

Don't just look at the bolts, actually put a wrench to them on try to tighten them. There's been some who have found loose motor mount bolts and both sides. Remove the battery/tray and put a wrench to the driver side mount bolts. Lift the coolant reservoir out of the way and tighten the bolts. My guess is the passenger side mount is shot, most likely the center bolt. It's been known to break. It may still be present, that's why you should put a wrench to it and turn it. You'll know if it's snapped or not. Lift/support the motor up slightly from the bottom to take the load off the mounts before tightening. If it's the mount and you persist on driving it abusively be prepared to possibly having to replace a driveshaft/boot. There are several threads, here's one.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/12947-Broke-a-Motor-Mount-over-the-weekend

I would recommend you consider this upgrade for the type of use you put your car through.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/14411-Powerflex-Motor-Mount-Inserts

 

[jeffreylyon]

There are ongoing issues with the CV joints. I had a right-side clunk on torque transition (accelerating, decelerating, shifting, even small movements in the gearbox when shifting between 1st and 2nd while still). The dealer replaced the halfshaft and the cluck when away. Now I have the same thing on the left side.

Perhaps this is what you're hearing.

 

[appst8]

I posted a thread trying to explain this exact same problem. I'm only at ~4K miles and can hear that noise as well. Some said it was the RMM, but since this happens at low load/speed i'm convinced it is not the culprit.

Mine also has some light popping when the wheel is nearly at lock while backing down my driveway. Please follow up with the results of your visit to the dealer.

 

[Reaper]

Update. I discovered exactly what koozy mentioned. A buddy watched the mount as I loaded it and was appalled by how much it moved. With a flashlite we noticed scuffs and scraped paint at the mount to chassis bolts. Put a socket on them, and sure enough, loose. So we pulled the two passenger side bolts, loctited, and reinstalled. The upper nuts were still tight so we left those alone.

Only one driver side bolt was visible...also loose. We pulled and loctited that one too, but it was a real bitch. Too much stuff in the way to get a straight shot at reinstalling the bolt.

So I still need some help. Got the battery out easy enough, but we never got the battery case out and finally gave up. With all the bolts out, the case is still locked to the ECU housing. There seems to be a clip at the top which we should have been able to loosen. But couldn't. Perhaps there's something else below the case which prevents the ecu housing to lift free.

Can someone who's done this explain the last step of freeing the battery case so we can get it out of the way?

 

[koozy]

Update. I discovered exactly what koozy mentioned. A buddy watched the mount as I loaded it and was appalled by how much it moved. With a flashlite we noticed scuffs and scraped paint at the mount to chassis bolts. Put a socket on them, and sure enough, loose. So we pulled the two passenger side bolts, loctited, and reinstalled. The upper nuts were still tight so we left those alone.

Only one driver side bolt was visible...also loose. We pulled and loctited that one too, but it was a real bitch. Too much stuff in the way to get a straight shot at reinstalling the bolt.

So I still need some help. Got the battery out easy enough, but we never got the battery case out and finally gave up. With all the bolts out, the case is still locked to the ECU housing. There seems to be a clip at the top which we should have been able to loosen. But couldn't. Perhaps there's something else below the case which prevents the ecu housing to lift free.

Can someone who's done this explain the last step of freeing the battery case so we can get it out of the way?

Get the battery box and it's mounting plate underneath out of the way and you're there. The ECU will need to be disconnected. IIRC, the battery box and ECU can come up together. It's been awhile since I've removed mine, but I recall it being all easy stuff once you figure it out.

 

[koozy]

here you go..

 

[Reaper]

That sounds possible. I was reluctant to mess with disconnecting the ECU. If you don't remember particulars, maybe I'll ask over on one of the mount upgrade threads. They probably do this stuff all day long. Thanks.

 

[koozy]

That sounds possible. I was reluctant to mess with disconnecting the ECU. If you don't remember particulars, maybe I'll ask over on one of the mount upgrade threads. They probably do this stuff all day long. Thanks.

I posted service manual pics right before you posted above.

 

[Reaper]

I posted service manual pics right before you posted above.

Yeah...I stared at them for a while. Might make more sense to me once the car is apart again. Did you determine the ECU has to stay attached to the battery case? Is that what the purple connector is in the first pic?

The upgrade you linked. Are those just elastic spacers/dampers that go onto stock mounts?

 

[koozy]

Yeah...I stared at them for a while. Might make more sense to me once the car is apart again. Did you determine the ECU has to stay attached to the battery case? Is that what the purple connector is in the first pic?

The upgrade you linked. Are those just elastic spacers/dampers that go onto stock mounts?

Sorry, I stopped looking into what's involved. When I did mine I had no references, and recall it being easy. It may seem daunting, but once you figure it out it's not. Hopefully someone who's done it recently can help you. It's been over a year for me.

The "spacers" are made to fill the voids on the stock mounts, which in turn stiffens the mounts up preventing/reducing movement.

 

[Reaper]

Thanks. I called the guy at Whoosh with some questions and he also sent me a link for a YT video removing the battery case (and ECU). I'm good to go now. It's surprising there are dozens of videos showing the easy task of replacing the RMM and none of the harder task of replacing the upper mounts.

 

[koozy]

come'on share the YT video link for the next guy that happens upon this thread trying to fix his clunky mounts, LOL

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Someone should video clunking mounts to show the sounds they're getting...

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[Reaper]

come'on share the YT video link for the next guy that happens upon this thread trying to fix his clunky mounts, LOL

Sure. Note, this isn't a motor mount link...it's for some tranny shifter bushings. But it covers removing the battery box. Actually, I stopped watching at that point. Dunno what else is on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6Ju0TxeWMI

 

[Reaper]

Someone should video clunking mounts to show the sounds they're getting...

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Sorry, no video, but you can rule my problem in or out in 5 seconds. Take a flashlight and examine the paint around the three visible mount bolts. Two on the passenger side, one on the driver almost hidden by the battery box. Heads are silver, 16mm wrench size. If the paint around them is heavily scuffed or even scraped away, they're moving. Just tightening the three that you can immediately get to will stop the noise. Another on the passenger side is easily accessed by pulling the coolant reservoir up and clear. Haven't gotten the battery case out yet to tighten the other driver side, but at least now I know how.

 

[koozy]

Ironically, I replaced the driver side motor mount with one I filled with 80A when I did the gearbox bracket bushings. I usually take a series of photos for anything I may need to refer back to. Having only 1 photo of the driver side mount area indicates that additional photos weren't necessary for me to refer to the next time I had to go back there.

Looking at the photo there are approximately 3 nuts that fasten to the 3 studs coming out of the mount that allow the ECU and attached battery tray/case to lift out, leaving access to the mount bolts. A harness may need to be unclipped from the bracket visible in the lower portion of the photo.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Does anyone else see this as being a safety issue? Maybe it should be brought to Ford's attention....food for thought....

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