What are some must haves for a new Daily FiST

[Adrian96]

Hey everyone so I got a 16’ FiST and want to daily it. I really dont want to get into building it as I am building my 12’ Charger. I know a RMM is recommended, I also want to install a catchcan (will be using synthetic oil like all the cars in my household).

So what do y’all recommend and what brands?

Before buying the FiST I was told to get a cobb rmm and now I am told they are subpar.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Ronbo]

Whoever told you the Cobb RMM is subpar was lying to you.


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[blue2turbo]

Cobb RMM is great and works fantastic with minimal NVH. I'm sure whoever said they were subpar would recommend one of the much more solid mounts that would increase the vibrations in the cabin quite a bit.

As for next thing (if you want to maximize fun and keep mods minimal), I would say a drop-in air filter for the stock intake (like RamAir from whoosh), an intercooler (Whoosh intercooler, Depo, or something used for about he same price) and a Cobb Accessport with a stratified tune. For minimal money it will completely transform the car. Then some sticky tires if you want to retain stock height and it should provide plenty of smiles for awhile!

 

[apex1]

Or if you really don't want to build it, drive it as is and spend money on your Charger. Mine is a couple of months old and I have learned some things here. A drop in filter gets you almost nothing, and neither does a cat back exhaust, other than louder exhaust note. If you're not building it, run the stock RMM unless you are getting wheel hop or some other symptom that might be helped. I have a module and use the dashcam app so I can monitor intake temps and here in Ohio with the driving I do I do not need a new FMIC. I only get elevated temps when sitting in traffic and a new IC won't help that. Add RallyArmor mud flaps and drive it hard, and start dropping money on stuff when you're ready to tune it. Unless you want more noise, then do an exhaust.

 

[Bluedrank]

+1 for the ramair foam filter. https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com/products/ramair-panel-filter-2014-fiesta-st-hi-flow

 

[Bretley]

Full tank of gas and nothing to do for a couple days expcept enjoy it! Also a RMM is a must, i have a COBB one and love it.

 

[speed_easy]

I put 30k miles on my '16 before even considering the RMM upgrade. I am running the stock tune though.

I went with the CPE (more vibrations first 1000 miles) but now that its broken in, love it. You can't go wrong with either the Cobb Mountune or CPE. General consensus is that cobb<mountune<cpe from softest to hard with cobb and mountune very close apart.

My vote for very first mod goes out to a weighted shift knob. Get one between 250-350g and you wont look back.

 

[blue2turbo]

I installed a Cobb on mine as well before the tune and have loved it. I don't have any direct experience, but have also heard a lot of great things about the AWR mounts that Whoosh sells. They are the cheapest option NEW and the ability choose stiffness and swap later if need be is great.

However if you keep your eyes peeled in the For Sale section, you can usually stumble across used Cobb/Mountunes RMM's for less than $100 or many of the others for a good deal below retail cost as well.

 

[speed_easy]

Totally forgot about the AWR mount. Now that's an option we didn't have last year.

 

[Zissou]

Hey everyone so I got a 16’ FiST and want to daily it. I really dont want to get into building it as I am building my 12’ Charger. I know a RMM is recommended, I also want to install a catchcan (will be using synthetic oil like all the cars in my household).

So what do y’all recommend and what brands?

Before buying the FiST I was told to get a cobb rmm and now I am told they are subpar.
Thanks in advance.

Cobb is great for a daily. I've had mine on for about a year and a half. I had a Boomba before it, a bit too much NVH for a daily.
Here's my review of the two http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/7995-Cobb-and-Boomba-RMM-Review

I also have a Damond oil catch can. Build quality is great. Seemed to be the most favorited one on this forum in terms of quality, mounting location, and the availability of the drain line.

Best bang for your buck mod will be a cobb accessport with the stage 1 OTS tune. I bought mine from Modbargains way back when and they included a drop in air filter.

 

[Zormecteon]

If you don't experience "scrabbling" when accelerating, you probably don't need the RMM.. It depends upon how you drive. IF you do experience it, the RMM is the fix. For a daily driver, get a Quick Shift. It's something that makes every shift, every day, better. Those two things will serve very well and make the car act as it should have from the factory.

YMMV

My 2¢

 

[Adrian96]

Okay guys thanks for all your input! I’m planning drop in filter, weIghted shifter, and the dammond catchcan first.
Is the carbon fiber ST shift knob weighted? I live in SoFL so would prefer a shifter that wont burn my hand.

I’ll look towards a COBB tuner if theres good deals for black friday or tax returns.


And one last thing when flooring it from low speeds Im getting some pretty serious torque steer. Anything to fix that? Its my first FWD car so I’m not used to it.

 

[M-Sport fan]

The Ford Performance ST carbon fiber look shift knob is about the same weight as the factory shift knob, and is not weighted like all of the import/sport compact style and marketed shift knobs.
I purposely do not want a weighted knob as with lousy/shitty roads, low profile tires, and a stiff suspension, I do not want the knob/shift lever jumping around with 2 lbs. of weight on the end of it, wearing out bushings, or making slop in them, so I'd rather push the trans into gear myself than have a massive counterbalance do it for me.

I have the carbon look Ford ST knob on mine and it is great!

This is a somewhat torquey down low in the rev range FWD car from the factory, so there is ALWAYS going to be that inherent twist in the steering wheel-(BIG laggy aftermarket turbo kits also help the first gear takeoff torque steer as they come on power higher in the rev range).
I also came from a powerful RWD car (LS1 Z28), so I am also still getting used to this, as the last FWD ride I had was over 20 years ago, and not nearly as powerful (A2 GTI 16V) as the FiST.

The one thing that can really quell it a good deal is a limited slip diff.
But sadly for us, since we were not offered one as an option from the factory, it is a $700.00 to $1200.00 aftermarket item depending on which one you opt for and where you buy it, PLUS installation labor which runs from free (DIY IF you are VERY skilled/meticulous with someone likewise talented helping you) to as much as $3000.00 at the co$tliest locations.

 

[Truth in Ruin]

The quarter mile record is held with the Cobb RMM

 

[speed_easy]

I do not want the knob/shift lever jumping around with 2 lbs. of weight on the end of it, wearing out bushings, or making slop in them, so I'd rather push the trans into gear myself than have a massive counterbalance do it for me.

I had the same concern myself. I thought that strapping a dead weight at the end of the lever would negate the connection between the input and the response. But the shift mechanism is not as simple as a pendulum swing. There's cables, a rotating mass assembly, bearings, and a variable moment lever arm. I don't want to get too off topic and turn this into a physics problem but the fact of the matter is that the shift mechanism in this, and most modern cable driven transmissions, is a topic of separate discussion. Its not as linear of a response as one would think, i believe.

In my mind a heavier shift knob lets gravity do some of the work for you. For a daily driver where you sometimes are stuck in traffic this may be exactly what you're looking for. Instead of spoon feeding every shift into its gate, you grab the knob (and with a controlled and rehearsed motion) flick it in place. You're still doing the work but the effective travel is shortened a little, if that makes sense.

Now the amount of control is what you want to be after. I believe that finding selecting the right shift knob is like trying to find the perfect pair of jeans. It all depends on your brand preference, style, and size.

I went with the 270g shift knob from boomba. It comes in four colors, but there are honestly hundreds of others on the market so decide for yourself. But what I like is that its only 75% heavier than stock and has, like they state, 'excellent heat management'. My only complaint is that the anodized insert at the top faded a bit over time. Otherwise I feel its a worthwhile investment. 10/10 would buy again.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I had the same concern myself. I thought that strapping a dead weight at the end of the lever would negate the connection between the input and the response. But the shift mechanism is not as simple as a pendulum swing. There's cables, a rotating mass assembly, bearings, and a variable moment lever arm. I don't want to get too off topic and turn this into a physics problem but the fact of the matter is that the shift mechanism in this, and most modern cable driven transmissions, is a topic of separate discussion. Its not as linear of a response as one would think, i believe.

In my mind a heavier shift knob lets gravity do some of the work for you. For a daily driver where you sometimes are stuck in traffic this may be exactly what you're looking for. Instead of spoon feeding every shift into its gate, you grab the knob (and with a controlled and rehearsed motion) flick it in place. You're still doing the work but the effective travel is shortened a little, if that makes sense.

Now the amount of control is what you want to be after. I believe that finding the perfectly weighted shift knob is like trying to find the right jean size at your favorite outlet. It all depends on your taste, brand preference, and size.

I went with the 270g shift knob from boomba. It comes in four colors, but there are honestly hundreds of others on the market so decide for yourself. But what I like is that its only 75% heavier than stock and has, like they state, 'excellent heat management'. My only complaint is that the anodized top insert faded a bit over time. Otherwise I feel its a worthwhile investment. 10/10 would buy again.

That probably makes sense, and I am still in the mindset of my old RWD, T56 gearbox setup which had the shifter directly connected to the actual internal main shift rail, which WOULD be hurt with a heavy knob on the end of the lever constantly bouncing around and stressing those rails/bushings/bearings.
I had the absolute LIGHTEST round delrin shift knob I could find/have made on that gearbox.

The excess shift knob weight probably does have less of a negative effect on anything when there are so many devices in between the shift rails and the shifter itself.

 

[DangerMouse]

Shifter feel is all personal preference. Try a couple different ones. I prefer a lightweight knob, cobb is my favorite, fits perfect in the hand. Currently though I'm using a grimmspeed delrin knob on an extension, looks good but not as comfortable to shift as the cobb.

 

[16_FiST]

I picked up the RMM/Filter/Accessport from Mountune for my daily after almost a year of owning it. I'm not sure how much different the RMM's are. I have heard everything from noticeable vibration to none. I'm noticing 'none'. Their package deal is a great price as well.

I only added an exhaust (from Mountune) because my friend was selling cheap with low miles on it.

I may only add the catch can and call it a day.

Happy driving!

 

[Capri to ST]

The nice thing is, you don't need to do anything, it's a very well designed car. The best (and only) improvement for me was substantially lighter wheels.

 

[SrsBsns]

So nobody has mentioned this yet, but the first thing I did was to get a pedal spacer.

I went with the Garageline one.

It moves the accelerator left and up to make it closer to the brake. Heel-toe is SO much easier now. I just rotate my foot from the brake and I'm on the gas to rev and downshift.

Very easy to install, pretty cheap, definitely worth it.