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Time for rear brakes

cxwrench

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#1
Ok...I need to do my rear brakes. They're not completely worn but I figure better to do now than wait. I'm gonna do pads & rotors. No track days, no autocross but I do have some great roads that I drive once a week or so, lots of 20-60mph twisty stuff. I'm thinking slotted rotors, the Centric Stop Tech slotted ones. I'd love to get some pads that don't dust (much) and have enough performance to work as well as the stock pads. I'd go w/ them again but the dust is bad as we all know. Any thoughts on pads? Any other rotors I should be looking at? And...is it unusual that my fronts still have decent material left and the rears are much more worn? 25,000mi on the car, lots of short trips to/from work, the store, etc. Thanks guys.
 


Quisp

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#2
Ok...I need to do my rear brakes. They're not completely worn but I figure better to do now than wait. I'm gonna do pads & rotors. No track days, no autocross but I do have some great roads that I drive once a week or so, lots of 20-60mph twisty stuff. I'm thinking slotted rotors, the Centric Stop Tech slotted ones. I'd love to get some pads that don't dust (much) and have enough performance to work as well as the stock pads. I'd go w/ them again but the dust is bad as we all know. Any thoughts on pads? Any other rotors I should be looking at? And...is it unusual that my fronts still have decent material left and the rears are much more worn? 25,000mi on the car, lots of short trips to/from work, the store, etc. Thanks guys.
Stability control eats rear pads. I went with stop- tech rear pads and plain centric and dust is minimal. Went hawk 5.0 and centric slots up front. My front were almost down to metal at 44k. Rears could have went another couple thou.
 


BRGT350

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#3
Hawk 5.0 pads is what I went with and I love them! Pretty close to stock performance level, but with a fraction of the dust.
 


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corpus christi
#4
Went with mountune RS-R pads just recently. Very good brakes without the crazy initial bite of the oem '14 pads. Much less dust as well.
 


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corpus christi
#5
Also my front pads were toast at 38k, but my back's still has about 1/3 life left. You must me hitting them corners hard like Ken Block lol. Or possibly not enough lube in the rear slide pins that brgt350 mentions in a YT video on his channel. My pins needed some lube, no pun intended. Lol
 


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BRGT350

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#6
yes, don't forget to lube your pin! Nobody enjoys a dry pin.

My pads wore about the same and were due for replacement around 33,000 miles. I had about an 1/8" to 3/16" of pad left. I was going to measure them, but forgot. I pulled ahead the pad replacement because of the stuck caliper, which was from seized guide pins. I am now planning on checking the guide pins every spring when I do the change from winter to summer mode. Probably not all that important for people outside of the rust belt, but surely something to inspect when you do your brake pads.
 


OP
cxwrench

cxwrench

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Thread Starter #7
I took a closer look at the pads and the chamfer had me thinking they were more worn than they are. I've definitely got some time, they're about the same wear as the fronts. Thanks for the pad advice, seems like Hawk is the way to go.
 


DaveG99

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#8
I took a closer look at the pads and the chamfer had me thinking they were more worn than they are. I've definitely got some time, they're about the same wear as the fronts. Thanks for the pad advice, seems like Hawk is the way to go.
Same thing happened to me. Thay angle cut makes them look worn
 


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#9
my rear pads are low (4mm) and need replacing soon. I have about 25k miles. Do you guys recommend replacing the rotors or can I keep them longer?
 


TyphoonFiST

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#10
my rear pads are low (4mm) and need replacing soon. I have about 25k miles. Do you guys recommend replacing the rotors or can I keep them longer?
Rotors are cheap...why risk being frugal and have to do the brakes again sooner than later? The car deserves new rotors....don't you think so?


Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 


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#11
Rotors are cheap...why risk being frugal and have to do the brakes again sooner than later? The car deserves new rotors....don't you think so?


Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
I didn't know the FiST typically required rotors replaced at the same time as the pads. Thanks for the info.
 


Intuit

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#12
The quality heavier Wagner brake rotors really helped.
(they didn't surface-rust after a little sitting either)
They weren't slotted or drilled, we're talking about a four door economy sedan from the mid-nineties, intentionally on the cheapest of the cheap organic pads.
The cheap rotor sets wore and readily warped with that Ford.

Regardless of what or how much lubricant, what end-boots I used, my slide mounts would seize between brake jobs.
I would tell mechanics and parts stores about it and the absolute universal response was, I 'should buy replacement calipers and sleeve/pin hardware.'

Knowing that any such replacement hardware would be far inferior to the well aged, used, OEM equipment that was already on there, I devised my own solution.

The hardware stores such as Lowes, carry 2" steel wire pipe cleaner brushes with handles on them. Hack-sawed off the handle, stuck in an A/C high speed plug-in drill, and proceeded to hone out the caliper slide mount bores. Took awhile to do each side adequately. Problems with seizing, ceased thereafter. Sold it with the OEM front brake hardware at over 327k.

Should the same problem be observed with this vehicle, I will take look to take the same steps toward a pseudo-permanent resolution. I only say "pseudo" because it will eventually be necessary to repeat the same process of cleaning up the slide mount bores. This could be three brake jobs later, instead of it seizing well within the period of the first brake job.
 


kivnul

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#14
... Or possibly not enough lube in the rear slide pins that brgt350 mentions in a YT video on his channel. My pins needed some lube, no pun intended. Lol
I must suck at YT, I looked through his channel and did not see anything obviously related to the rear breaks. Got a direct link?
 




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