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Fiesta st OIL CHANGE METAL FLAKES CAUSE?

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#1
Cant find a thread addressing this besides typical 5k mileage oil change need some input if this seems normal ?really need this clarified if its normal on the fist ,so my 2014 fist has 50k miles and during oil drain found metal flakes inside ,will post pic seems its not jist to my particualr car my brother did his oio change on his 2015 fist with 17k miles and found the same result any ideas os this normal cant find a thread both car seem way over break in period ??
 


pelotonracer2

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#2
Cant find a thread addressing this besides typical 5k mileage oil change need some input if this seems normal ?really need this clarified if its normal on the fist ,so my 2014 fist has 50k miles and during oil drain found metal flakes inside ,will post pic seems its not jist to my particualr car my brother did his oio change on his 2015 fist with 17k miles and found the same result any ideas os this normal cant find a thread both car seem way over break in period ??
If you can visibly see the metal "sheering" in the oil, just think about how much of that gets redeposited on moving parts. This is a big reason it is beneficial to change the oil several times before the 1st recommended oil change interval. I changed mine at 100 miles, 500 miles, 1,200 miles, 3,000 miles and 5,000 miles and then 5,000 miles ever since. Last several Blackstone oil analysis shows ridiculously low particulate in my oil, even when it is at the change interval schedule end. Some people say changing the oil more often is a waste of money, but in my experience you will end up paying for it in parts and labor later (usually after the warranty runs out). My car has 43,000 miles on it. The oil has been changed 13 times. I've also changed the transmission fluid twice, coolant once, power steering fluid once, brake fluid once. Runs perfect, makes really good power on the dyno, and still drives like new, no leaks, no failures, no gear noise or what I call driveline "slack lash". It's been stage 3 most of it's life.

I'd get that oil out ASAP.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #3
I see but at 50k miles and my brither at 17k miles shouldnt that metal be out woth the amount of oil changes done?
 


Plainrt

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#4
You sure it's not flakes off the oil filter depending on tool use to unscrew. I was worried one time but realized some flakes peeled off filter into oil drain pan.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #5
We Needed to drain a bit of oil out becaise we overfilled ot by mistake about .7 liters so we didnt remove the filter it came straight doen onto the oil pan thats were we checked it results were same for both for his and mine were both stage 3 but no cobb ap yet thanks for the suggestion but i domt belivleve its that
 


me32

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#7
I've never had the problem im over 80k now. I run 10k oil changes with changing the filter at 5k. What oil and filter and weight do you run? I ran my original factory fill for 6k before changing. Wanted it to break in correctly. It's still unproven if ford puts in a factory break in additive to the oil. But my original oil change had a green tent to it. My guess is a break in additive.

Why not send in you oil for sample testing.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #8
I've never had the problem im over 80k now. I run 10k oil changes with changing the filter at 5k. What oil and filter and weight do you run? I ran my original factory fill for 6k before changing. Wanted it to break in correctly. It's still unproven if ford puts in a factory break in additive to the oil. But my original oil change had a green tent to it. My guess is a break in additive.

Why not send in you oil for sample testing.
Amsoil and k and n high flow
 


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#9
I wonder if the green tint to the original oil is from the assembly lube that would have been used when they assembled the engine. I changed my oil three times by 5000 kilometers (3000 miles). By the last change was not seeing any metal particles, sealant bits or flashing bits. Saw more than I would like on the early changes. Glad I got all the crap out quickly though.
 


felopr

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#10
This have power steering fluid? I always thought it was electric assist, havent seen the reservoir bottle
 


M-Sport fan

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#11
This have power steering fluid? I always thought it was electric assist, havent seen the reservoir bottle
Was going to ask the same thing. ;)

Is ours an electro-hydraulic system, with actual drain-able/change-able fluid still in just the rack somehow? [???:)]
(There definitely is NOT any reservoir/bottle on these cars, unless it's hidden inside of frame rails somewhere. ;))
 


Last edited:

me32

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#13
I wonder if the green tint to the original oil is from the assembly lube that would have been used when they assembled the engine. I changed my oil three times by 5000 kilometers (3000 miles). By the last change was not seeing any metal particles, sealant bits or flashing bits. Saw more than I would like on the early changes. Glad I got all the crap out quickly though.
It's possible that it is assembling lube. But no one has been able to confirm that. It's been disscused in and old thread somewhere. But there had been no official information that it's assembling lube or a break in additive. Everyone has there own thoughts when to do an oil change on a new car. In the past I used to do an oil change within the 1st 1000 miles. But with the newer cars I have chosen not to due that. I know on the 2011 mustang 5.0 many people have issues when they had changed there factor oil less than 1000 miles. People were getting odd noises and some engine failures with less than 10k on them. Ford was telling some of those guys to run the factory fill for at least 5k. My guess would be for the break in i know some of those remanufactured engines had break in additive to them.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #14
What version of Amsoil? Shouldn't matter but wondering why at 50k your getting getting metal flakes
100 percent sybthetic 5w30 sae amsoil ,but my brother has 17k mile same issue hence why i made this thread see if anyone else had this issue
 


felopr

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#15
our cars use 5w20, maybe is that, if the car has tight clearances maybe
 


M-Sport fan

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#16
our cars use 5w20, maybe is that, if the car has tight clearances maybe
The HTHSV between those two weights in Amsoil are not that far apart, and even if they were, it's not enough to cause that kind of metal shedding.
IF anything, the variable valve timing functions would/could possibly be effected by weight differences, but again, it usually takes a HUGE difference, like using a 15W-50 in a 0W/5W-20 specced app to have that occur.
 


pelotonracer2

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#17
I see but at 50k miles and my brither at 17k miles shouldnt that metal be out woth the amount of oil changes done?
Oh. I just assumed that the car was new.

Have you thought about doing oil analysis? You definitely should not have visual particulate in your oil...
 


OP
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Thread Starter #18
Oh. I just assumed that the car was new.

Have you thought about doing oil analysis? You definitely should not have visual particulate in your oil...
I have a photo that i took but i cant upload becaise it says file is too big any way around that?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #19
The HTHSV between those two weights in Amsoil are not that far apart, and even if they were, it's not enough to cause that kind of metal shedding.
IF anything, the variable valve timing functions would/could possibly be effected by weight differences, but again, it usually takes a HUGE difference, like using a 15W-50 in a 0W/5W-20 specced app to have that occur.
Another thing is we are both stage 3 but no cobb ap so intake exhaust downpipe and intercooler no way of checking afr too see if were running lean but then again thats just a theory
 


me32

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#20
Another thing is we are both stage 3 but no cobb ap so intake exhaust downpipe and intercooler no way of checking afr too see if were running lean but then again thats just a theory
The intercooler wouldn't cause and issue. But running a catless down pipe might if you didn't do something about the rear 02 sensor
 


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