Bought ST from big dealership recently, rotors grooved/worn?

[smneufell]

So I recently posted a huge story about recently getting an ST so Ill keep it fairly simple. In short, love the car. But, its my first subcompact and Im pretty sure the car doesn't stop like it should. Ive worked on my own beater bikes and cars for some years and I know worn rotors when I see and feel them. One of the fronts has a small inch wide strip of contact surface, the rest is rust. Does anyone know if that's considered a brake safety defect in the used car law for MA? Its a legit big dealership, just not a cpo car. 38k mi, 2015. I plan to ask the dealer directly soon, but I don't want to look like an idiot claiming a car isn't safe when really it's "safe enough." I hate using the word "law" and making demands / requests in the same conversation. I've researched the law, but it doesn't specify the kind of brake defect. The law could specifically apply only to defects that make the car undriveable, like a blown line for all I know. It's definitely driveable. Definitely. Anyone with MA dealer experience? Thanks.

 

[felopr]

no experience with the law, but a picture for reference would be a good start

 

[LargeRubberFist]

Have you thought about putting on new pads and rotors? You might even want to replace the caliper on the questionable wheel.

 

[Joe Schmoe]

The pads on the FiST are super aggressive and wear out very quickly. My bet is on a completely worn pad. The pads are right there for you to see - take a look.

 

[OggiSiMangia]

Post a picture we might be able to help you better.

 

[Flip54]

Does it pass MA state safety inspection? If not then the dealer will need to fix it.


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[Hijinx]

Pre-16s had super aggressive pads. At 38k, those rotors should have been changed already. I think most guys had to replace theirs between 20-30k.


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[OggiSiMangia]

The rust is just surface rust from sitting. It should either wash or be brushed with a wire brush or high grit sand paper(gently). If the rotors are grooved or the pads are too thin then you should probably replace them. OR if the rotors are fine just buy a set of OEM pads so it’s the same compound on the already used rotor.

 

[smneufell]

Thanks for replies. I know for a fact they (rotors) need replacing, it's definitely not surface sitting rust, it's just a matter of whether or not they're bad enough to be considered a safety defect in the eyes of the law. The car did pass inspection, that's why I'm hesitant to go back there. The pedal even feels like a stuck pin/piston, inconsistent soft pressure. Stopping from 40 feels ok, but say from 60, it slightly pulls and most definitely does not stop the way these cars should. BUT, like I said, it's driveable so I dunno. For pics, it was hard to see even with the car jacked for an oil change, never mind now that it's raining/snowing a mess. For a best comparison, https://i.stack.imgur.com/kot2t.jpg, just the inside of a front instead, can't remember which side, but the opposite side had the whole surface used. I know the rear rotors on my buick only use maybe half the surface and result in the same type of wear as the pic shows, but that's normal. Here's another pic which applies to all the other rotors having the wear lip, uneven surface, https://carfromjapan.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/brake-rotor-replacement-grooves.jpg Without a doubt this thing was pad slapped, pads are at least 75%. I hate whining about something, I'd rather just fix it myself and get it over with, but at the same time I feel like I shouldn't be doing the same repairs within a week of purchase as I would with my old $1000 beaters. As Ive mentioned, love the car, just certain things like this which bug me. Im thinking next time Ill stick to certified preowned cars...

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Nope it's not a safety issue... it would fall under normal wear and tear...if it was me...I'd just do brakes all the way around...pads and Rotors....make sure the guide pins are greased up with some good high temp brake grease like silaramic by CRC. Brakes should be inspected and re-greased yearly...but hardly anyone does this. Now comes the fun part....if you buy pads and rotors....what to get? Have fun....good luck...Merry Christmas !

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[smneufell]

Alright peeps, I just measured the rotor thickness of one of the fronts with some mics. It was dark and a bad angle, but it was either around .800 or .825, either way that's below minimum spec. And that was one of the better looking rotors. That HAS to be considered a safety defect... right? Anyway, that should be all the tangible evidence I need so I don't feel like I'm asking favors. Of course now Ill have to wait until after christmas to have it looked at.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Alright peeps, I just measured the rotor thickness of one of the fronts with some mics. It was dark and a bad angle, but it was either around .800 or .825, either way that's below minimum spec. And that was one of the better looking rotors. That HAS to be considered a safety defect... right? Anyway, that should be all the tangible evidence I need so I don't feel like I'm asking favors. Of course now Ill have to wait until after christmas to have it looked at.

It will be considered wear and tear....the dealer may work with you. BUT you will have to pay the labor....Rotors wear down just like pads....just not as fast....depending on braking habits. LIKE I said....you would be better off doing the brakes yourself and getting aftermarket parts/performance parts and their added benefits....such as low dusting pads....more aggressive pads...slotted rotors...slotted and drilled rotors....Cryo frozen rotors....etc....etc.

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[TyphoonFiST]

I did my pads and Rotors at about 30k...Rotors had the lip and the outer edge....pads were at about 40%...I was sick of the dust...I opted to get carbotech 1521 pads front and back and Cryoed front slotted centric rotors and normal slotted rotors for the rear....won't ever look back...it was about $500 ...I did the labor myself.its not even worth it to machine rotors anymore as most manufacturers make them 1 time use. These are economy performance hatchs....not a McLaren f1s....but for the price this little FiST....is the best performance bargin that can be had for sub25k.... have fun with it...don't over analyze everything.

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[XR650R]

This car has strong brakes. It needs them. For your own safety, keep 'em cherry.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Two most important things...Brakes and Tires...IMO....this is something I see people get frugal with and then complain later on down the road.

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[me32]

Two most important things...Brakes and Tires...IMO....this is something I see people get frugal with and then complain later on down the road.

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It happens all the time. Pretty sad too.

 

[smneufell]

The wear and tear part is what I was afraid of, I just figured since Ive only had the car for 4 days and 200 miles it'd fall under the used car warranty implied by the state. I guess really I'm just looking for an excuse to do them myself. I ALWAYS do brakes as a full set. I'm actually kinda looking forward to doing brakes on a car only 2 years old. SHOULD be cake compared to my '98 Riv with over 200k on it. I usually do EBCs on my bike, but I've heard mixed things about them. Not looking for extreme performance, I'd be satisfied with oem performance/quality (without the oem price). Especially since my 15" steelies just came in and will be getting some xice3s in the next week or 2.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

The wear and tear part is what I was afraid of, I just figured since Ive only had the car for 4 days and 200 miles it'd fall under the used car warranty implied by the state. I guess really I'm just looking for an excuse to do them myself. I ALWAYS do brakes as a full set. I'm actually kinda looking forward to doing brakes on a car only 2 years old. SHOULD be cake compared to my '98 Riv with over 200k on it. I usually do EBCs on my bike, but I've heard mixed things about them. Not looking for extreme performance, I'd be satisfied with oem performance/quality (without the oem price). Especially since my 15" steelies just came in and will be getting some xice3s in the next week or 2.

Like I said....Check with them....they might be willing to cut you a deal on some parts if you wanna stay OEM....If they were in anyways smart they would see the value in helping you out as you just bought it and retaining you as a customer for future purchases.....IMO.

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[smneufell]

Yeaaa that's the plan. What's the word to describe someone who goes looking for other's opinions/advice as an excuse to influence their decisions? Heh, I dont mean to be a pain in the balls, thanks for all your replies!

 

[OggiSiMangia]

Alright peeps, I just measured the rotor thickness of one of the fronts with some mics. It was dark and a bad angle, but it was either around .800 or .825, either way that's below minimum spec. And that was one of the better looking rotors. That HAS to be considered a safety defect... right? Anyway, that should be all the tangible evidence I need so I don't feel like I'm asking favors. Of course now Ill have to wait until after christmas to have it looked at.

Props on knowing how to use a micrometer lol also I’m not sure what the rotor spec is for our cars. Maybe the rotors were bad and the dealership had them redone and fucked them up bad bc .825 is pretty horrible for a new car. I can check what the spec is on Tuesday, but that isnt doing you much help. I would measure all four rotors and write it down. Anyway, did you check your pads? Master cylinder for leaks? Any loose fittings or kinked/bubbled brake lines? Bleeding the brakes, could be some air in the system if you have soft pedal pressure.