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Stage 1 tune comparison

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I haven't seen anyone running both, this is interesting. What would be the purpose?
My intent was just to clear up any mis-information. The dv+ is a diverter valve that releases excess boost pressure when you lift the throttle (throttle plate closes and would cause compressor surge, if it had nowhere to go). The wastegate actuator regulates boost pressure during wot situations, to maintain your boost target.

How the vehicle is tuned and what gains can be made is another conversation. Lol.
 


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So for a stage 1 car with low mileage, in which order should I upgrade?

Ideally, you wound get an intercooler first. :p That would provide the most performance gains, or even just consistency. Summer is around the corner, these turbo cars lose a lot in the heat.

Second, the DV+ would be probably the next thing.

Lastly, I would highly recommend getting a custom tune when you install the waste-gate. The waste-gate actuator would probably be the last mod you should do when you get your setup the way you want and just get your "final" custom tune for YOUR vehicle.

You really should get the car retuned if you swap your wastegate out. You can just run the wastegate actuator without a custom tune, but the benifits really will be seen most with a custom tune. Swapping out the downpipe in these cars doesn't really do anything on the stock turbo. Catback exhaust is pretty much just for sound. You might see something from a well designed intake like the CPE intake or the Mishimoto intake when you pair them with the Velossatech Big mouth.

Intercooler >> DV+/BOV >> Wastegate Actuator + Custom Protune >> Closed Box Intake + Big Mouth Ram Air.
 


danbfree

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Ideally, you wound get an intercooler first. :p That would provide the most performance gains, or even just consistency. Summer is around the corner, these turbo cars lose a lot in the heat.

Second, the DV+ would be probably the next thing.

Lastly, I would highly recommend getting a custom tune when you install the waste-gate. The waste-gate actuator would probably be the last mod you should do when you get your setup the way you want and just get your "final" custom tune for YOUR vehicle.

You really should get the car retuned if you swap your wastegate out. You can just run the wastegate actuator without a custom tune, but the benifits really will be seen most with a custom tune. Swapping out the downpipe in these cars doesn't really do anything on the stock turbo. Catback exhaust is pretty much just for sound. You might see something from a well designed intake like the CPE intake or the Mishimoto intake when you pair them with the Velossatech Big mouth.

Intercooler >> DV+/BOV >> Wastegate Actuator + Custom Protune >> Closed Box Intake + Big Mouth Ram Air.
Thanks for the specific advice! I already knew that most bolt-ons had very little performance gains but an upgraded intercooler does help a bit, especially with consistency... More than likely I am go to do the RMM, intercooler and DV+ before I call it good! Well, this is on top of front muffler/resonator delete and short shift kit, Eibach springs and tint... :D I've already done drop in and cut out opening where big mouth would go for better air flow...
 


A7xogg

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Sorry to keep bugging you to clarify, but with tune alone I spike to 26-26.5 psi at WOT and hold something like 23.5 at first until it slowly drops off up top... It's not that I don't believe you, really, it's just that tune, I believe has a lot to do with it, or perhaps it's because my car is a '17 that I'm just now hitting 3k miles on the way home tonight...
I noticed a similar change after installing a DV+. Not really much in the seat of the pants, but the numbers are there to "back it up".
OK, I almost brought that up too, am looking at a GFB DV+, they are popular among the VW/Audi guys too, learned from when I had one...So, despite being two separate things they both help prevent 2 different kinds of boost leak, right? Or, do they do the same thing? I do know the DV+ is used instead of a BOV, but a wastegate is separate...
I haven't seen anyone running both, this is interesting. What would be the purpose?
I was running both, but my intake setup was super loud and after the wastegate, at certian part throttle the dv+ would open while accelerating and it got annoying fast.
 


A7xogg

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Sorry to keep bugging you to clarify, but with tune alone I spike to 26-26.5 psi at WOT and hold something like 23.5 at first until it slowly drops off up top... It's not that I don't believe you, really, it's just that tune, I believe has a lot to do with it, or perhaps it's because my car is a '17 that I'm just now hitting 3k miles on the way home tonight...
I noticed a similar change after installing a DV+. Not really much in the seat of the pants, but the numbers are there to "back it up".
OK, I almost brought that up too, am looking at a GFB DV+, they are popular among the VW/Audi guys too, learned from when I had one...So, despite being two separate things they both help prevent 2 different kinds of boost leak, right? Or, do they do the same thing? I do know the DV+ is used instead of a BOV, but a wastegate is separate...
I haven't seen anyone running both, this is interesting. What would be the purpose?
I was running both, but my intake setup was super loud and after the wastegate, at certian part throttle the dv+ would open while accelerating and it got annoying fast.
 


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I was running both, but my intake setup was super loud and after the wastegate, at certian part throttle the dv+ would open while accelerating and it got annoying fast.
were you tuned for the aftermarket waste-gate actuator?
 


A7xogg

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Sorry to keep bugging you to clarify, but with tune alone I spike to 26-26.5 psi at WOT and hold something like 23.5 at first until it slowly drops off up top... It's not that I don't believe you, really, it's just that tune, I believe has a lot to do with it, or perhaps it's because my car is a '17 that I'm just now hitting 3k miles on the way home tonight...
I noticed a similar change after installing a DV+. Not really much in the seat of the pants, but the numbers are there to "back it up".
OK, I almost brought that up too, am looking at a GFB DV+, they are popular among the VW/Audi guys too, learned from when I had one...So, despite being two separate things they both help prevent 2 different kinds of boost leak, right? Or, do they do the same thing? I do know the DV+ is used instead of a BOV, but a wastegate is separate...
were you tuned for the aftermarket waste-gate actuator?
yeah i was tuned for it.
 


A7xogg

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Sorry to keep bugging you to clarify, but with tune alone I spike to 26-26.5 psi at WOT and hold something like 23.5 at first until it slowly drops off up top... It's not that I don't believe you, really, it's just that tune, I believe has a lot to do with it, or perhaps it's because my car is a '17 that I'm just now hitting 3k miles on the way home tonight...
I noticed a similar change after installing a DV+. Not really much in the seat of the pants, but the numbers are there to "back it up".
OK, I almost brought that up too, am looking at a GFB DV+, they are popular among the VW/Audi guys too, learned from when I had one...So, despite being two separate things they both help prevent 2 different kinds of boost leak, right? Or, do they do the same thing? I do know the DV+ is used instead of a BOV, but a wastegate is separate...
were you tuned for the aftermarket waste-gate actuator?
yeah i was tuned for it.
 


danbfree

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yeah i was tuned for it.
I think this is why I'm going for JUST the DV+ and not the actuator... I'll keep an eye out on boost levels, but for now with my stock setup with fairly aggressive Stratified tune it spikes to nearly 26.5 but holds a good 23.5 while slowly dropping off, just like it should... I just want to maintain that performance while I consider other upgrades like RMM, sport springs, etc...
 


A7xogg

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I think this is why I'm going for JUST the DV+ and not the actuator... I'll keep an eye out on boost levels, but for now with my stock setup with fairly aggressive Stratified tune it spikes to nearly 26.5 but holds a good 23.5 while slowly dropping off, just like it should... I just want to maintain that performance while I consider other upgrades like RMM, sport springs, etc...
It doesn't affect driviability or anything, it's just a way to keep the car from boosting when you don't want to. With a stock intake you would not even hear it
 


danbfree

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It doesn't affect driviability or anything, it's just a way to keep the car from boosting when you don't want to. With a stock intake you would not even hear it
Well, I hear some venting now with just a drop-in, but yeah, I've seen videos where it doesn't add much sound at all but I'm more or less just want to make sure I get the boost that I should.
 


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Well, I hear some venting now with just a drop-in, but yeah, I've seen videos where it doesn't add much sound at all but I'm more or less just want to make sure I get the boost that I should.
The most BOV sound I got form the stock "style" turbo diverter valve was when I replaced the hotside charge pipe with I giant solid 2.5"(?) aluminum pipe. It resonated with the DV+ and made is sound more racecar on the blow off. All the rubber and coupling on the stock hotside charge pipe muffles the sound. Vent to atmosphere BOVs are loud, much louder than the DV+.

The diverter valved added 1/2 a psi toward redline when I did it without any tuning, and about 1 psi right when the turbo starts to taper ff. I datalogged before and after, and it seemed to hold boost a little better everywhere. Better boost behavior on shifting as well. It wasn't mindblowing or anything, but the data showed it handled the boost better.
 


danbfree

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The most BOV sound I got form the stock "style" turbo diverter valve was when I replaced the hotside charge pipe with I giant solid 2.5"(?) aluminum pipe. It resonated with the DV+ and made is sound more racecar on the blow off. All the rubber and coupling on the stock hotside charge pipe muffles the sound. Vent to atmosphere BOVs are loud, much louder than the DV+.

The diverter valved added 1/2 a psi toward redline when I did it without any tuning, and about 1 psi right when the turbo starts to taper ff. I datalogged before and after, and it seemed to hold boost a little better everywhere. Better boost behavior on shifting as well. It wasn't mindblowing or anything, but the data showed it handled the boost better.
Thanks for the info.. my last car it was easy to just disconnect the return hose to the intake to VTA and just point the hose toward the ground and it would blow off pretty nicely. Some guys removed the hose completely and it was twice as loud blowing right off the stock BOV/DV... But ya, I'm debating whether to just do hot side pipe, replace all pipes, replace IC, etc. I'm still waiting to see what charge temps and power is like once it gets hot this summer but so far it hasn't looked too bad, from just a few degrees above atmosphere to no more than 15 above and no major loss of power while in the low 80's... I'm sure that will change once it hits close to 100, but that's also pretty rare here, hence why I'm considering just hotside or full piping replacement. A lot of people here don't realize that our stock FMIC really isn't bad compared to most stock small square ones that most cars have... The drop-in I have is from Mountune, which is made by Greenfilter, which is pretty much a copy of a regular K&N, so very thin compared to the factory 2" think paper filter, I'm thinking a DV+ with hotside pipe would be the perfect amount of sound for me, I'm kind of an old fart here at 46, lol...

But, to be back right on topic, I'm VERY impressed with Stratified tune, $75 well spent, I paid for their TC, and is enabled by default, I just have to remember to hit the button for Sport mode... Other mods to come to go along with this setup is the $89 Pierce front bar and RMM and I think I'll be happy... As a dad I can't blow all my money on a new turbo, etc., and that's fine as this great tune really, really helps, I can't believe how fast I get up to, uhm, "Texas interstate speeds", LOL...
 


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Thanks for the info.. my last car it was easy to just disconnect the return hose to the intake to VTA and just point the hose toward the ground and it would blow off pretty nicely. Some guys removed the hose completely and it was twice as loud blowing right off the stock BOV/DV... But ya, I'm debating whether to just do hot side pipe, replace all pipes, replace IC, etc. I'm still waiting to see what charge temps and power is like once it gets hot this summer but so far it hasn't looked too bad, from just a few degrees above atmosphere to no more than 15 above and no major loss of power while in the low 80's... I'm sure that will change once it hits close to 100, but that's also pretty rare here, hence why I'm considering just hotside or full piping replacement. A lot of people here don't realize that our stock FMIC really isn't bad compared to most stock small square ones that most cars have... The drop-in I have is from Mountune, which is made by Greenfilter, which is pretty much a copy of a regular K&N, so very thin compared to the factory 2" think paper filter, I'm thinking a DV+ with hotside pipe would be the perfect amount of sound for me, I'm kind of an old fart here at 46, lol...

But, to be back right on topic, I'm VERY impressed with Stratified tune, $75 well spent, I paid for their TC, and is enabled by default, I just have to remember to hit the button for Sport mode... Other mods to come to go along with this setup is the $89 Pierce front bar and RMM and I think I'll be happy... As a dad I can't blow all my money on a new turbo, etc., and that's fine as this great tune really, really helps, I can't believe how fast I get up to, uhm, "Texas interstate speeds", LOL...
I just installed the DV+ as you know, and did the MBRP hotside pipe a week before. The hotside pipe didn't seem to change anything aside from there is approximately one more in of vacuum while cruising then before, likely a credit to the smoother flow. The DV+ actually quieted my intake down (drop in and ported stock box).

I am going to be selling my Cobb RMM here in the next month or so btw.
 


danbfree

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I just installed the DV+ as you know, and did the MBRP hotside pipe a week before. The hotside pipe didn't seem to change anything aside from there is approximately one more in of vacuum while cruising then before, likely a credit to the smoother flow. The DV+ actually quieted my intake down (drop in and ported stock box).

I am going to be selling my Cobb RMM here in the next month or so btw.
Also good info, thanks... Yeah, I like the fact that the hotside pipe smooths things out a bit for increased airflow, and that's exactly what's showing with slightly increased vacuum. On my last car, it also had a little resonator that was actually super easy to delete with a $10 section of pipe, but Ford puts it right next to the big curve so we are forced to do that whole curved section of pipe... I think Whoosh's pipe is only like $85, seems like a smart way to go to at least max out the stock IC.. May I ask why you're selling the Cobb RMM? I've looked into it and I kind of like the 68 durometer softer initial bushing that is surrounded by a stiffer one... I have a 15% off military/veteran discount with Cobb for one item and was considering using it on that... But with them not really degrading over time I don't mind going used either...
 


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Also good info, thanks... Yeah, I like the fact that the hotside pipe smooths things out a bit for increased airflow, and that's exactly what's showing with slightly increased vacuum. On my last car, it also had a little resonator that was actually super easy to delete with a $10 section of pipe, but Ford puts it right next to the big curve so we are forced to do that whole curved section of pipe... I think Whoosh's pipe is only like $85, seems like a smart way to go to at least max out the stock IC.. May I ask why you're selling the Cobb RMM? I've looked into it and I kind of like the 68 durometer softer initial bushing that is surrounded by a stiffer one... I have a 15% off military/veteran discount with Cobb for one item and was considering using it on that... But with them not really degrading over time I don't mind going used either...
I found a great deal on the MBRP secondhand, otherwise I would've gone the Whoosh route had I bought new. Getting rid of the Cobb because it's not quite as stiff as I'd like. There is pretty much ZERO nvh increase which I do like but just doesn't have that connected feeling I'm looking for. I'd like to go AWR or Revo next. I need to decide, order one, and install it before I officially list/sell the Cobb however in case I was wrong about what I wanted. Lol
 


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I feel it has broken in a bit since installing, to the point where I forget it's there. I've put approximately 2k miles on it just cruising around.
 


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