Stuck Tires

[Sprinkle_Star]

As I was attempting to do a routine tire rotation today, I'd discovered that both of my rear wheels were stuck! A friendly neighbor lent me a sledgehammer, and they came off with a bit of persuasion.

Of course, these are my winter tires on steelies, and I didn't know to apply anything to the inside of the wheels to prevent this.

Earlier last year, I'd noticed that the OE rims have some sort of grease on them. As a result, I didn't have this issue with my summer tires.

In the future, what should I be applying to the inside of the wheels? Anti-seize or grease?

Please be specific; I'm still an auto maintenance novice!

 

[green_henry]

After tracking my TSX, I had to apply anti-seize between the hub and the wheel -- not absolutely necessary, but it definitely helped. Too early to tell if this is necessary on my FiST (only 1 track day and < 7k overall), but there's no downside to doing so (anti-seize is cheap).

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

Well, it looks like all I'll need to do is use sandpaper on the rust buildup.

 

[DEss]

Well, it looks like all I'll need to do is use sandpaper on the rust buildup.

Sprinkle,

the sandpaper won't do anything to keep the rust from coming back. A thin coat of anti-seize on the hub may be beneficial for when you need to remove the wheel again.




DEss

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

Very good - now, what kind of anti seize for steel on steel?

 

[Xaendeau]

Copper anti-seize. Better than grease, as it won't ruin your brakes if you get a drop on the rotor. It is the high-temp stuff.

Aluminum works alright, but is much lower temp. The nickle stuff is even higher temp, but it is very toxic and bad for O2 sensors if you put it in your exhaust. Generally avoid the stuff unless you really need it. Stick with copper.

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

Copper anti-seize. Better than grease, as it won't ruin your brakes if you get a drop on the rotor. It is the high-temp stuff.

Aluminum works alright, but is much lower temp. The nickle stuff is even higher temp, but it is very toxic and bad for O2 sensors if you put it in your exhaust. Generally avoid the stuff unless you really need it. Stick with copper.

You win three internets.

Thank you!

 

[Uncle Fister]

I personally prefer not to beat things with hammers. My 02 4Runners wheels were recently glued on when I was completely replacing the front brakes.

My method was to loosen the wheel lugs, and drive back and forth, while applying the brakes, breaking the wheels loose from the hubs, making a speedy and easy removal, sans sledge.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

As I was attempting to do a routine tire rotation today, I'd discovered that both of my rear wheels were stuck! A friendly neighbor lent me a sledgehammer, and they came off with a bit of persuasion.

Of course, these are my winter tires on steelies, and I didn't know to apply anything to the inside of the wheels to prevent this.

Earlier last year, I'd noticed that the OE rims have some sort of grease on them. As a result, I didn't have this issue with my summer tires.

In the future, what should I be applying to the inside of the wheels? Anti-seize or grease?

Please be specific; I'm still an auto maintenance novice!

Sure you could do either or get a deadblow BFH In the sledge hammer size...like this....Capri Tools C102 12 lb Dead Blow Hammer, 36-1/2", Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OM4GAV...29/88174c8bdb4193531910b49556bb9919.gif[/IMG]

 

[alexrex20]

Just loosen the lug nuts a little bit next time and drive around the block. When you get back to the house the wheels will all be loose.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[62champ]

Just loosen the lug nuts a little bit next time and drive around the block. When you get back to the house the wheels will all be loose.

You can save yourself a trip - let the weight of the car help you out. Loosen one wheel at a time (just a turn or two) and give the car a good rock - should easily come loose.

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

The removal of the tires was easy; my concern was mostly focused on preventing this issue. I've since learned that it's best to apply a thin film of grease on the back of the rim, right around where the center cap is.

 

[Intuit]

Slapping a hammer against the wheel with a block of wood to dampen and distribute the impact will due just fine.

The manual does cover this in detail, recommending that you clean-up the hub contact surfaces and lubricate them. I believe I used bearing grease this time around, but past experiences suggest that anti-seize doesn't have the problem of easily getting washed away. The stuff that was on there with the original wheels prior to first removal, appeared to be heavy lithium like grease.

Centripetal forces tend to force things away from the center.