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If you're running a 225/45/16 R888R please help me

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Sammamish
#21
^^^One has to remember that these are 100 tread wear, just about 'streetable' (despite the mileage that ericr has gotten out of them! [thumb]) open track tires.

Even IF they made them in an even taller sidewall than the ones on ericr's ride, they probably would have little to no 'mush' in their structure, or resultant turn-in. [wink]
Even "IF" you could be clear on what you're saying, I do know that every time I've discussed these tires, you've expressed how bad they are without any direct experience. "They pick up every piece of gravel, they wear out in a couple thousand miles, they get flats." They don't, and yet you continue with your uninformed opinion. You've been called out on this by others before - why don't you start contributing, rather than just the prolific, critical, uninformed commenting? [thumb]
 


M-Sport fan

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#22
Even "IF" you could be clear on what you're saying, I do know that every time I've discussed these tires, you've expressed how bad they are without any direct experience. "They pick up every piece of gravel, they wear out in a couple thousand miles, they get flats." They don't, and yet you continue with your uninformed opinion. You've been called out on this by others before - why don't you start contributing, rather than just the prolific, critical, uninformed commenting? [thumb]
WOW!!
That post went TOTALLY over your head, like a low flying F22 Raptor at mach 2+ speed!

I was NOT criticizing those tires in the LEAST [nono] but was actually defending and PRAISING them by pointing out that their side wall construction counteracts the concerns of some on this thread that their 50 series profile would/could be way 'too mushy'.
(Since track oriented tires generally DO have much stiffer side walls in any given size than the plain old 340 tread wear+ touring/summer tires which most on here seek so desperately, hoping that they last the life of the car!)

Regardless of what I have ever stated about them, IF TOYO MADE THEM IN A SIZE I COULD, OR WOULD WANT TO USE, THEY WOULD BE ON MY SUMMER WHEELS AS WE SPEAK!!!
Go ahead, turn THAT into an accusation of "uninformed" criticism.
 


Messages
151
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67
Location
Sammamish
#24
WOW!!
That post went TOTALLY over your head, like a low flying F22 Raptor at mach 2+ speed!

I was NOT criticizing those tires in the LEAST [nono] but was actually defending and PRAISING them by pointing out that their side wall construction counteracts the concerns of some on this thread that their 50 series profile would/could be way 'too mushy'.
(Since track oriented tires generally DO have much stiffer side walls in any given size than the plain old 340 tread wear+ touring/summer tires which most on here seek so desperately, hoping that they last the life of the car!)

Regardless of what I have ever stated about them, IF TOYO MADE THEM IN A SIZE I COULD, OR WOULD WANT TO USE, THEY WOULD BE ON MY SUMMER WHEELS AS WE SPEAK!!!
Go ahead, turn THAT into an accusation of "uninformed" criticism.
Oh-Oh! I guess I didn't understand. My apologies. nevermind
 


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67
Location
Sammamish
#26
[MENTION=1619]ericr[/MENTION] think i could elimate the need to roll fenders by going with the 205 variant of these tires? https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...dewall=Blackwall&partnum=05WR5R888R&tab=Sizes
On 15x8 et35's, the rears would fit without any work. You'd still have to pull the fronts about 1/2 inch right at the seam with the bumper. Just use a dead-blow hammer on the inside of the lip starting about 8 inches back from the seam and work forward to the seam. Use a heat gun on the bumper and on the paint on the fender to prevent any cracking. It's actually quite easy to do.
 


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#27

TDavis

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#28
I am running that same size RS-RR as code on a 17x8 ET42 pro race 1.2 (so the resultant actual tread width is a little wider than what code has on a 7" wheel), on a fully factory stock suspension, and it does not even come anywhere close to rubbing, regardless of how 'loaded up' the suspension is, what kind of 'compression' bump I hit, or if I encounter bumps on the apex of hard turns. ;)

I am also only running about .5* negative camber on the fronts.
You mind posting a pic of that setup? We have the same size wheel "17x8" and I'm considering the RS-RR's in a 215/40 for my next tire and was curious on the look comparison to my 205 Michelin. Need to get new tires and rad before the tail to the dragon run in May.
 


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Ottawa
#30
I run eibach sport so about 3/4" drop on all 4 corners. Right now I track with 215/40/17 federal RS-RR (Run very large so lets say 225). Wheels are 17x7 42 offset and I have no rubbing issues. Since the wheels are 17x7, the tires mushroom out a bit. I'm planning on putting these tires on my new 17x8 konig hypergrams which are 40 offset and I don't forsee myself having a problem. The Federals should fit better on the wheel.

I think you should be fine if its not slammed and if you run a bit of negative camber up front.
I ran this set up all year (17's with hypers) Didn't rub at all. Even with a 1" drop from springs
 


TemecFist

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#31
On my Rota recce I am 17x8 +40 running a 215/40/17 Federal RSR. I rubbed a lot on the front and started to wear away the forward tab that sticks into the fender well when hitting bumps or during cornering. I am lowered on mountune springs, so 1" or less-ish. I just used whiteline camber bolts maxed at -2.5deg which solved that issue and helped with high speed cornering also.

I run r888 on my other car during the summer and a 255/40/17 is basically flush on my 9.5" wheels. I would assume they run the same thick sidewall on the size you are looking for so assume they will rub pretty hard and be very flush with your wheel, if not a little bulge.
255/40/17? Isnt that about 1.5" taller in diameter? How does that effect your gear ratios? Does it make the gear "taller" but less "peppy"?
 




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