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Tuner Nube...

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Harker heights
#1
Hey guys. Just picked up a 14 ST a few months ago and I love it. I'm new to the whole tuning thing, but I'm excited to learn more. I just ordered the MRT Rally exhaust, and I have a few other ideas of what I want done, but I'm looking for new options. Any advice would be great. I've been asking my car buddies their opinions and looking through threads, but I'm wondering if there's anything you guys have found that's either super fun or beneficial? Not looking for arguments, I know I can look at typical mod threads, I'm just wondering if there's any brands or upgrades you guys have found that are either a waste of time or super worth it. Also, I was wondering if you could suggest any wheels? I would like to keep it the 17" rims, and preferred in black. I'm having an unexpectedly difficult time finding some....thank you and look forward to hearing/seeing your guys' shit!
 


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New Castle
#2
Plenty of more experienced minds will jump in, but I was in a similar situation to you a while back and did spend a significant amount of time researching.

The consensus is typically Cobb AP (for a tune and to monitor some key metrics), Rear motor mount (RMM) for better shifting/less wheel-hop and engine movement, drop in air filter (ram air, K&N, cobb, etc) and upgraded front-mount intercooler (FMIC) so you can consistently push max boost through the turbo without your car pulling timing to protect itself. Oh, and a Velossa-tech big mouth. What isn't there to love about a snorkel staring out through you grill looking for cool air? [rockon]

I have all of the above and also a short-shift adapter and symposer delete. These two are definitely just personal preference (no real performance gains).

Popular mods are cat-back exhausts (which you have already ordered) and completely new air intakes. From what I understand, you won't gain much from either unless you upgrade the turbo and/or get an aftermarket down-pipe. They both make a lot of noise and for some, that is what they are looking for.

I'll leave it to others to add suspension and tire/wheel recommendations. Mine are stock, but definitely plan on stickier tires once mine wear out. I'm doing the one-wheel peel in 3rd gear!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #3
Yeah, I was planning on getting the Cobb stage 3 package that comes with the AP, down pipe, and intercooler, but I think I'll pass on the tuner "chip" for now. I also ordered the Cobb rear motor mount. I was surprised at how big of a difference that seems to make when I was researching typical mods for this car...I have a general sense of what I'm doing (as in I can install most of this stuff myself, just need some direction on which ones are best so I appreciate your input!) But when I saw that a motor mount was such a popular mod I was a little baffled haha. I do plan on getting an upgraded intercooler though and possibly the big mouth intake. Also, which brand did you do for the symposer delete? I have seen a few YouTube videos about it and from the crappy quality and my not so good hearing, I can't hear much of a difference. Would you say it's enough to justify spending the 50 bucks or so I've seen them for? Again, I appreciate all the info jtehh!!
 


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North Branford
#4
Hey,
I have a 17' that I picked up mid December and have since done most of the standard bolt ons, dont have a downpipe yet since its been on backorder since december. I've been messing with all types of cars for quite some time so I'm no stranger to mods either. I'll try and share my insights as best I can and what order I would go in if I were doing it again.

I just did the accessport with a mountune tune and it has made the most significant difference powerwise, although you'll end up with some traction problems at stage 2/3. I probably should have done the access port first, since it already comes with the cobb tunes and you can update the tune as you change hard parts.

I've got the mountune exhaust, not much of a difference in power, but it seemed to help the throttle response slightly. Same goes for the airbox/filter/intake piping, I have an st200 box with ramair filter & piping. Didn't install a big mouth as I didn't want to block airflow to the radiator. I opted to cut the hole in the plastic air inlet above/behind the grille.

Symposer delete was nice to make the car feel less "ricey", best I can describe the stock symposer is it sounds similar to one of those crappy aluminum tube intakes that people put on NA 4 cylinders, albeit significantly quieter.

Honestly, for me, some of the most noticeable changes were the fswerks short throw linkage and a no-pistons gas pedal spacer. Doesn't make the car any faster, but they made improvements in the feel from the driver's seat, if that makes any sense. The less that I need to concentrate on "operating" the controls on the car makes it easier to actually "drive" the car. I would say its akin to adjusting the controls to fit you on a motorcycle, if you have riding experience, then you should know what I mean by that. I'd say the motor mount falls into part of this category as well. The stock one is pretty floppy when you drive the car hard. Mine is a mountune.

I have some other mods too, so feel free to ask if you would like my insights on those. Didn't want to write a novel here.
 


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Okemos
#5
If I were in your shoes... the 5 first mods I would complete would be a Cobb AP(E30 tune), AWR 70a RMM, drop in filter(or preferred intake if you like the extra noise), FMIC, and an oil catch can. The AP I would buy from stratified and the rest from whoosh motorsports. Other notable mods... a downpipe to complete your exhaust, FSwerks Short shifter plate and some stickier rubber.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #6
I definitely appreciate your input dirttwurk! That is one thing ive consistently seen is minor traction issues, but I guess thats the price you pay when you add power and lose weight haha. From the original article I've read I thought mine was stock, but there's people with the same model as mine that tell me to get stuff I already have....mostly cosmetic and more of a "personal touch", but it does already have an injen cold air intake. I'll definitely end up picking up a symposer delete! I definitely know what you mean about the motorcycle comparison. I used to race around on a little 07 ZX6R, and we put a lot of work into that so I know the very basics. I'm just trying to learn the things that are different between the two wheeled and four wheeled world's. I'd also love to see pictures of either the mods, or just the car itself. I love seeing people's work, especially when they take pride in it. I'm looking into the intercooler upgrade, and ive seen one that's pretty good price, but it doesn't have the new piping. Another one I've seen is more, but it looks like it has everything. The intercooler is something I've never messed with before, so I was wondering if it'd be worth it to get the piping too? And if it's a bitch to swap the stock system with the new one? That's another thing...I barely have enough for parts, and I feel like it's not enough to buy a part and have someone else put it on. I'd much rather do the shit myself
 


OP
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Thread Starter #7
Sounds good EnthusiaST! What is the purpose of the oil catch can? Is it just a "preventative maintenance" type of thing or performance thing?
 


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#8
What is the purpose of the oil catch can? Is it just a "preventative maintenance" type of thing or performance thing?
Regarding an oil catch can (OCC), more of a maintenance thing. I actually posted a link to a video that reviews fuel injection methods and some of the issues with direct injection vs port injection. Our FiSTs use direct injection, so there is a concern that blow-by is being recirculated onto the valves. Since there is no port injection, fuel isn't sprayed onto the top of the valves to keep them clean.

Here is the thread with link to video.
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/...video-Direct-injection-problems-and-solutions

You can also do a forum search for OCC to view other opinions. There are some very good arguments both for and against using an OCC. Some make the argument that what you see collecting in the OCC would be burned off before hitting the valves (or something similar - I'll have to review them myself). In summary, no one really says an OCC is bad. It just might not be necessary. But if it helps you sleep at night, it is a worthwhile mod.


Also, which brand did you do for the symposer delete? I have seen a few YouTube videos about it and from the crappy quality and my not so good hearing, I can't hear much of a difference. Would you say it's enough to justify spending the 50 bucks or so I've seen them for?
Regarding the symposer delete, I used the cheapest I could find (Whoosh for $20). Do a little searching and you can find a DIY option using generic plugs and I think it is only like $4-$5. You can simply disconnect the hose that runs from the symposer and into the firewall if you want to "test" the sounds without the symposer. To remove the symposer, the key is you need to plug the hose that runs down under the motor (not sure where it goes, never followed it). It is under vacuum, so needs to be sealed. I enjoy the more "natural" sounds our car makes and with our engine bay so packed, removing that big-ass sound symposer can give you some space.

But when I saw that a motor mount was such a popular mod I was a little baffled haha.
You and me both. Prior to the FiST, I've never given motor mounts a second thought. I kept reading and EVERYONE recommended replacing the RMM. I will say that on the stock mount, I kind of winced every time I slammed into second gear under hard acceleration. Something just didn't feel right - like I was abusing or breaking the car. Hard to explain. Now I run with an AWR 88a which definitely increased the NVH. But damn - I can slam into second and the car just feels completely planted. I agree with others that the soft mount that is stock on FiSTs is to reduce vibrations from the motor. It is NOT for performance. With a little searching you can find a video that shows how much the motor moves under acceleration with and without the stock RMM. Definitely worrth a watch. For the money and ease of installation, RMM is a no-brainer. Only question is how much NVH you can handle.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #9
Watched the video and it was pretty informing, thank you for that! Definitely worth at least another look for the OCC. Most likely gonna pick one up for cheap
 


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#10
I agree with the other guys here, seems like we're all pretty much saying the same things. Completely forgot to mention the OCC. I have a damond in my Fiesta. Its on the PCV side. Turbo cars tend to blow oil through the intake tract, and like jtehh said, these cars being DI means that there's no fuel coming through to clean the tops of the valves off, so they can carbon up over time. The oil mist in the combustion chamber can also cause detonation, which is not your friend on a turbo car that you plan to tune. I had one on one of my subarus and did catch a fair amount of oil, not sure how the fiesta is since my car only has 1300 miles on it.

Most of the engine bolt on mods are really only useful in support of the actual tune. The basics of turbo cars seem to apply to these things. You want to be able to maintain cold air charge and you want to be able to expel exhaust as efficiently as possible. If you're on a budget then I would definitely go for the AP with a stage 1 tune and then work my way up as budget allows.

Ron @ whoosh is a great vendor to buy parts from. I have the whoosh branded silicone intercooler piping and they seem well made for the price, fitment is good. Not sure how necessary they are but I took that part of the car apart for other mods, so I changed them.

Here's a pic of mine as sit sits now. I have some others of mods but never uploaded them. Just ask if you are curious about anything in particular. Have fun modding.
26952076_10156212945786654_1620059359525931645_o.jpg
 


KnockOff

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#11
I will second on the occ. I just bought a damond to replace my mushimoto can. Even the mishi can gets around 1.5 oz per 5k miles. My car has 90k on it and I got the occ almost right after I bought the car. So that would be 27 oz of oil on the back of the valves. I know the can does not catch all of it but still. 27 oz didn't make it.

Check out some mudflaps too. Good protection against road debris.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 


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