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Cobb OTS tune at ~2500 miles, could I benefit from step colder plugs?

danbfree

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#1
Stock car with only drop-in, but also, to add: In my area our premium fuel is rated at 92 octane but tuners have said that our 92 in the NW is actually good quality and more like 93. This has been confirmed by those in my area to be true, they have no problems with 93 octane tunes... So is that another factor that going with new step colder plugs could help with? TIA!
 


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#2
Likely less knock and corrections. Tuner can maximize a more aggressively setup tune.


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danbfree

danbfree

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Thread Starter #5
Whoosh. Ron is top notch!!
Agreed! And already found them on his site, I'm just wondering if I just gap myself and get them cheap off Amazon... I'll have to wait a bit after dropping a lot on my AP already, but now I know what I'll be doing next!
 


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Likely less knock and corrections. Tuner can maximize a more aggressively setup tune.


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Stock car with only drop-in, but also, to add: In my area our premium fuel is rated at 92 octane but tuners have said that our 92 in the NW is actually good quality and more like 93. This has been confirmed by those in my area to be true, they have no problems with 93 octane tunes... So is that another factor that going with new step colder plugs could help with? TIA!
This goes to both of you:
You should always run the hottest spark plug heat range that works correctly on your car/tune.

On a stage 1 OTS cobb tune there is not much need to run a step colder unless you are getting a lot of KR corrections, as others have said.
The stage 1+2 OTS tunes produce more heat than the stock tunes but it doesn't mean it's out of the heat range of the spark plug, if gapped correctly they will likely still work properly.

Stock range spark plugs with the correct gap will work great on the up to stage 2. If you are fully bolted and getting custom tune the step colder will start to show it's benefits.
You need to consider if you are putting a lot of extra heat/boost/torque into the engine which is above the optimal range for the spark plug.

Stage 1 + 2 Cobb OTS - Stock plugs work great

High altitude/high temp climtates + Fully bolted or Upgraded turbo - Step colder
 


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danbfree

danbfree

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Thread Starter #11
BTW, got my AP Stage 1 installed last night... OMG, what a world of difference in the powerband, love the FFS too!
 


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#12
For anyone reading this in the future, ecoboost motors are quite sensitive to hot spark plugs. The Fiesta's 1.6L is one of the least finicky motors of the group, but they still don't like big gaps with hot plugs. I would recommend for everyone to swap to a step colder spark, pre-gapped or gap yourself.

Putting a step colder plug to .026" was the best thing I did to reduce knock correction. I gained ~2 extra degrees of additional timing. On the stock turbo with Cobb's OTS 93 octane stage 3 tune, I'd get to a solid 6+ ign. cor. where before I would be around +3 to +4.

Cheapest increase in power/reliability for only about $20 from rockauto and 15 minutes of your time.
 


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BTW, got my AP Stage 1 installed last night... OMG, what a world of difference in the powerband, love the FFS too!
At some point, you should grab one step colder .026" gapped spark plugs, put an intercooler on it, then run Cobb's 91 Octane Stage 3 tune. You get 95% of the performance potential for the cheapest price. I would avoid the 93 octane, and just get the car pro-tuned/e-tuned eventually.

The Stage 2 and Stage 3 tunes really add a lot of power up top, but they really require an intercooler. Running without one heatsoaks the intercooler and you can actually run slower than stock on the top end. Seen it on a few dyno pulls. Skip the downpipe/exhaust and just load the Stage 3. The stock downpipe is not a restriction with the stock turbo. PM me if you have any questions, there's a few budget options floating around if you don't want to spend $600 on an intercooler.
 


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danbfree

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Thread Starter #14
For anyone reading this in the future, ecoboost motors are quite sensitive to hot spark plugs. The Fiesta's 1.6L is one of the least finicky motors of the group, but they still don't like big gaps with hot plugs. I would recommend for everyone to swap to a step colder spark, pre-gapped or gap yourself.

Putting a step colder plug to .026" was the best thing I did to reduce knock correction. I gained ~2 extra degrees of additional timing. On the stock turbo with Cobb's OTS 93 octane stage 3 tune, I'd get to a solid 6+ ign. cor. where before I would be around +3 to +4.

Cheapest increase in power/reliability for only about $20 from rockauto and 15 minutes of your time.
So which model plug do you recommend? I was resigned to paying about $33 for the NGK, can't remember the exact number, I have it saved on my Amazon...

At some point, you should grab one step colder .026" gapped spark plugs, put an intercooler on it, then run Cobb's 91 Octane Stage 3 tune. You get 95% of the performance potential for the cheapest price. I would avoid the 93 octane, and just get the car pro-tuned/e-tuned eventually.

The Stage 2 and Stage 3 tunes really add a lot of power up top, but they really require an intercooler. Running without one heatsoaks the intercooler and you can actually run slower than stock on the top end. Seen it on a few dyno pulls. Skip the downpipe/exhaust and just load the Stage 3. The stock downpipe is not a restriction with the stock turbo. PM me if you have any questions, there's a few budget options floating around if you don't want to spend $600 on an intercooler.
Yes, the FMIC upgrade is definitely the one thing needed to go stage 2 plus... But, I think the 93 octane is fine for now, I've captured some data logs but haven't looked at them, hell haven't figured out how to change the gauges displayed on the AP even.. i've found where the different ones are selected via bubble but still shows the default one 6 times... I actually work in computer testing with datalogs, I'm sure I'll figure it out once I have some time tonight, I literally just updated the AP firmware, wiped off the old v200 tunes and added the latest Cobb OTS ones on, and flashed to stage 1 93 octane.. Again, I can't believe the difference in powerband with the torque, worth the $400 alone, but seems like everyone is more obsessed with peak gains for some reason.
 


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#15
I ordered mine through Whoosh and they were gapped and checked.

Cannot recommend enough.

Also if you think the OTS tune is good. Get a Stratified tune and prepare to be very happy.

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danbfree

danbfree

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Thread Starter #16
I ordered mine through Whoosh and they were gapped and checked.

Cannot recommend enough.

Also if you think the OTS tune is good. Get a Stratified tune and prepare to be very happy.

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Thanks for the input, I'm just in the honeymoon phase, happy to have a proper powerband at least but that's the plan, get a "real" tune like Stratified or Dizzy, I thought Stratified was backed up, but sounds like worth the wait for datalog tweaks... Also finally figured out my gauges and happy to say with claimed 92 octane fuel my OAR with the 93 tune is pegged at -1.0... so our fuel, at least Costco top tier is definitely underrated here!

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#17
Oh I have the Strat shelf tune. Sent them my mods and they sent the maps. I added crackles later

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danbfree

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Thread Starter #18
Oh I have the Strat shelf tune. Sent them my mods and they sent the maps. I added crackles later
Ya, I hear both Mountune and Strat have better than Cobb OTS tunes but both also offer datalog tweaks for up to 45 days... If I hadn't just gotten a deal on a like-new used AP (w/only Cobb), I was gonna get the Mountune package for $589, to save the $60 over Cobb/Strat but might as well go to Strat for just the tune now... and since I have a '17 my stock motor mount is at least better than previous years so no rush there, until I break mine enjoying the new tunes! LOL
 


KnockOff

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#19
Real quick question here.

Octane adjust ratio.

Every now and again when getting on it it will go to -.95 or -.97. Does this mean crap fuel or good fuel. 99% of the time its at -1.00. Happens rarely.

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danbfree

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Thread Starter #20
Real quick question here.

Octane adjust ratio.

Every now and again when getting on it it will go to -.95 or -.97. Does this mean crap fuel or good fuel. 99% of the time its at -1.00. Happens rarely.
If it's staying that close to -1.0 then you're OK... looks like it just hit a bit of knock temporarily, and that's normal. According to Cobb, as long as it stays at -1.00 nearly all the time then you're good... Their web site actually has some good info on it: https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204049644-Octane-Adjust-Ratio-OAR-
 


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