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Thread: Intake Noise

  1. #11
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    I find there are risks with plugging a rubber expander plug in there.
    Possibility of damaging the plastic, the rubber to start leaking, or get loose over time, might even fall in there and damage other parts.
    As much as I would want to delete the whole thing, I think I'll go with the cork option.
    Just stomp a cork in the cabin connector hose. It would be totally free, and keep the rest of the mechanism perfectly in tact for selling it at a later time.

    I'm also concerned, when taking out the symposer box, and it's vertical hose, and plugging it in there, that there would be more PSI than it was engineered for.
    The symposer box is not leaking, but it does allow the air to expand and contract more (like a buffer tank). When plugging it up, there's no more buffer tank to buffer the air; and my only concern is if there is a possibility of this causing damage in the long term?

  2. #12
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    Take the box off plug the hole with whatever you want problem solved. It has one purpose and one purpose only to make sound. I personally like the sound, so I'm going to keep mine on the car. In this thread a guy is offering you a solution for $20 that looks nice, but you post you can't find anything less than $40????

    Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by ProDigit View Post
    I find there are risks with plugging a rubber expander plug in there.
    If you leave the hose intact, don't over-torque, use neoprene rubber, use 1.125" plug, as mentioned in my post above, there are zero risks.

    Possibility of damaging the plastic,
    You can damage anything if you over torque things.

    the rubber to start leaking,
    Leak is highly unlikely and if done as mentioned prior, a leak would be inconsequential except for symposer noise in the cabin.

    or get loose over time,
    I actually used blue Loctite brand thread adhesive as a precaution. The metal cap on the plug is pinned beneath the tube. The plastic on a lock nut if substituted for one, might not like the engine bay temps.

    might even fall in there and damage other parts.
    The metal cap on the plug is too large to fit inside the plastic tube on the Symposer.

    As much as I would want to delete the whole thing, I think I'll go with the cork option. Just stomp a cork in the cabin connector hose.
    I think this has the advantage of plugging the leak at the firewall, instead of the symposer. When there's a sound leak via the firewall, it can be surprisingly audible. Hopefully it is easy to reach and even easier to remove. Downside is I'm not sure that the hose would hold pressure, if the symposer were to spring a leak. Under failure mode, plugging at the symposer would be better.

    It would be totally free, and keep the rest of the mechanism perfectly in tact for selling it at a later time. I'm also concerned, when taking out the symposer box, and it's vertical hose, and plugging it in there, that there would be more PSI than it was engineered for. The symposer box is not leaking, but it does allow the air to expand and contract more (like a buffer tank). When plugging it up, there's no more buffer tank to buffer the air; and my only concern is if there is a possibility of this causing damage in the long term?
    https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...A&&FORM=VRDGAR
    Removing all that "complexity" is going to result with less points of failure. A lot of the folks that remove the box also have performance mods, such as "big turbo" and "BOV". Even if they were to run crazy 30 PSI boost pressures, I suspect it'll be a problem for some other components, prior to it being a problem for the cap that they're using.
    2016 Ford Fiesta ST Kona Blue ; Engine, Suspension will remain untouched ; Southwest Ohio ; Winter: 215/45R17 Continental ; Seasonal: 205/40R17 Bridgestone


 
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