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REVIEW: Ram-Air crossover pipe

jeff

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#1
What's up people.

Recently I installed a RamAir intake setup on my car, and this morning I added the final piece which was the crossover pipe. I thought I'd post a few pics and thoughts. There are a few other threads on this but I like making an independent review.

Previously installed were the RamAir panel filter and induction hose. So this review reflects only the crossover pipe.

PRICE - ****
$132 shipped, and total of $224 for all 3 pieces (crossover, induction, panel filter). That's pretty good I think compared to other stuff out there. Ron at Whoosh has these for sale, he's a great fellow to buy your stuff from.

QUALITY - ***
These guys are making a killing...yes these fit 99% perfectly but the crossover pipe is thinner metal that I expected. Weight savings, right? The quality is significantly less than a CP-E or Cobb intake, both of which I've handled. It's not gonna break or anything, but it wouldn't take much to dent it if it were dropped or used as an anti-zombie weapon or something of that nature.

FITMENT - ****
Pretty much perfect....there's plenty of room, everything goes on super easily. The pipe is touching the engine where the rubberized cover is (see pic), I think the stocker did that as well so it's no big deal, though it would be nice if they weren't touching and rubbing and all.

INSTALL - *****
From the time I opened my hood to the time I closed it was 55 minutes. Great fitment made install super easy. Of course I've removed the cowl/headlights many times so that cut my time down. But it is pretty simple. Make sure you know what size socket you're using before putting the pipe on, that will save you time. I chose to attach the turbo inlet coupler to the crossover first and then put it onto the inlet and tighten. There isn't much room to work but it's not that bad. Knowing your socket size before reaching down there makes it easier. Other than that, it's all super easy, no issues at all.

RESULTS - ???
As you can see from the pics below, where I compare the stocker vs. Ramair, the pipe is wider and has better flow undoubtedly. So in theory more cooling ability and power. Intake air temps did drop about 1-2 degrees compared to before install. I did a datalog before install, in a few days I'll do an "after" log and compare the two and report. According to Jason's intake comparison, the crossover gave the greatest gains of any intake mods, 20tq and 4hp. I'll see how the Vdyno compares to this on my car. Of course we have different setups but still it will be nice to see the results. I will say that the butt dyno felt a bit more torque, but this might be placebo and/or happiness over my newly installed part, you know how that is. Heck though, if it really does add 4hp and 20tq it's totally worth the money. I'll post the results when I get logs after a few days. I take temps and weight and barometric pressure seriously when I V-dyno. But it's still only V-dyno...so there's really no way to prove anything here. But it helps and it's fun.

SOUND - ****
Installing the crossover made a minor but nice sound change. There is more intake noise, but it's not the whooshy whishy type - instead it's the lower end bassy side of the intake noise, the rumble. Sort of like you can hear the engine just a bit more, but the growly part of the engine, not the breathing part. If that makes sense.

OK more datalog results/thoughts to come later, for now here are some pics:







 


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Chicago
#2
Great review! Any reason for choosing this over the cp-e? I have the lower intake pipe cpe and was looking at their crossover pipe as well.
 


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Hela
#3
Here is my car with the Mountune MRX turbo, Vdyno runs adjusted daily for temp and barometric pressure with the RAMAIR crossover pipe and Induction hose changes, step by step.

A bit cooler weather also helped. Only difference besides daily baro and temperature on these three is the change to a Whoosh induction hose along with the RAMAIR crossover pipe and a 2.75" to 3" adapter, allowing a full 2.75"+ intake from the Mountune airbox setup to the turbo. Redline is full 2.75" RAMAIR pipe and whoosh induction hose to Mountune airbox (outlet is 2.75 on airbox near MAF), blue line is just the crossover pipe and 2.75" to 3" adapter with stock induction hose (~2.4" at smallest inside), green line is the OEM turbo inlet pipe and induction hose with the MRX kit 2.5" to 3" adapter at the turbo inlet. As per the pics posted, the stock turbo crossover pipe goes less than 2" in some spots, especially near the turbo inlet. Very restrictive for aftermarket turbos.

Note the torque is overestimated by a bit of wheel slippage when boost hit, but HP is right on. Very nice gains overall. Had no issues with install or otherwise, great fitment.

1.jpg
 


redmoe

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#4
Awesome info guys. I just ordered one and will try to get a video of the installation.
 


OP
jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #5
Great review! Any reason for choosing this over the cp-e? I have the lower intake pipe cpe and was looking at their crossover pipe as well.
Thanks man glad it helped.

With all my heart I believe the CP-E is better, providing cooler temps, more air, and therefore more gains. And better MPG; my MPG has suffered since removing it. My reasoning for swapping it out was I was ready for a bit less induction noise. It's not even the CP-E piping that makes the noise, it's the huge (and effective) airbox. The Ramair is super quiet. Not for everyone, but I wanted less noise.

Here is my car with the Mountune MRX turbo, Vdyno runs adjusted daily for temp and barometric pressure with the RAMAIR crossover pipe and Induction hose changes, step by step......

Note the torque is overestimated by a bit of wheel slippage when boost hit, but HP is right on. Very nice gains overall. Had no issues with install or otherwise, great fitment.

View attachment 17533
Thanks Pete!

I'm going to respectfully disagree with your info here - no need to go back and forth on it, but I'll simply say that gains of +11hp for the induction pipe and +16hp for the crossover, as you are reporting, are pretty much not possible. An intake does not add 27hp, no way now or in the next life, not happening on this car. Aside from not being possible, the data conflicts with other data that was taken from real dynos, not virtual. For example, Jason at Dizzy did an intake comparison on real dynos, and yes it was a different car and turbo setup, but even so the numbers are comparable. Honest Jason showed us +0.1hp for the induction pipe and +4.0hp for the crossover. That's more realistic.

Not saying you (and I) are not getting gains; I love this new setup and that's why I did this review, to show it off and make Ron money. But saying it's going to add 16hp is total misrepresentation. 4hp, that's more reasonable.

Here's a link to Jason's tests, post #1.
 


XanRules

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#6
Interesting. I hadn't seen the CPE but it seems like it's about a wash, price-wise, vs something like an ST200 Airbox + Crossover + Hose setup, especially if you were getting better results with it (at the expense of noise). Still, these look like great pieces and are still on the shopping list.
 


OP
jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #7
Interesting. I hadn't seen the CPE but it seems like it's about a wash, price-wise, vs something like an ST200 Airbox + Crossover + Hose setup, especially if you were getting better results with it (at the expense of noise). Still, these look like great pieces and are still on the shopping list.
Good observation. Price wise you'd end up about the same. However, I need to re-iterate that the CP-E is superior. Build quality alone...hold both pieces in your hand, one looks and feels like it was designed and made in China by a machine (Ramair), the other by an engineer with a passion for cars (CP-E). Plus Mitch from CP-E is an A+ guy, I've talked to him.

Honestly taking off my "grade A" CP-E and replacing it with this "grade C" setup has bothered me a bit. Best example I can give is that I had a part made for an Audi on a Ford, and I removed it and put a part made for a 1998 Hyundai Accent on a Ford. But again, noise was my issue. Not bad noise, just noise I wanted less of so I could hear the rest of the car.
 


XanRules

Active member
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#8
Good observation. Price wise you'd end up about the same. However, I need to re-iterate that the CP-E is superior. Build quality alone...hold both pieces in your hand, one looks and feels like it was designed and made in China by a machine (Ramair), the other by an engineer with a passion for cars (CP-E). Plus Mitch from CP-E is an A+ guy, I've talked to him.

Honestly taking off my "grade A" CP-E and replacing it with this "grade C" setup has bothered me a bit. Best example I can give is that I had a part made for an Audi on a Ford, and I removed it and put a part made for a 1998 Hyundai Accent on a Ford. But again, noise was my issue. Not bad noise, just noise I wanted less of so I could hear the rest of the car.
For sure! I'm more talking to myself since I already have the ST200 airbox and I'm like, "do I want to keep going down this path?" hahaha

Which I think I do since a lot of the differences seem to be bling (not that bling isn't important) and maybe 1-2hp.

EDIT: that said, if you want to offload your CP-E in exchange for an ST200...
 


redmoe

Active member
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516
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Location
Phoenix
#9
What's up people.

Recently I installed a RamAir intake setup on my car, and this morning I added the final piece which was the crossover pipe. I thought I'd post a few pics and thoughts. There are a few other threads on this but I like making an independent review.

Previously installed were the RamAir panel filter and induction hose. So this review reflects only the crossover pipe.

PRICE - ****
$132 shipped, and total of $224 for all 3 pieces (crossover, induction, panel filter). That's pretty good I think compared to other stuff out there. Ron at Whoosh has these for sale, he's a great fellow to buy your stuff from.

QUALITY - ***
These guys are making a killing...yes these fit 99% perfectly but the crossover pipe is thinner metal that I expected. Weight savings, right? The quality is significantly less than a CP-E or Cobb intake, both of which I've handled. It's not gonna break or anything, but it wouldn't take much to dent it if it were dropped or used as an anti-zombie weapon or something of that nature.

FITMENT - ****
Pretty much perfect....there's plenty of room, everything goes on super easily. The pipe is touching the engine where the rubberized cover is (see pic), I think the stocker did that as well so it's no big deal, though it would be nice if they weren't touching and rubbing and all.

INSTALL - *****
From the time I opened my hood to the time I closed it was 55 minutes. Great fitment made install super easy. Of course I've removed the cowl/headlights many times so that cut my time down. But it is pretty simple. Make sure you know what size socket you're using before putting the pipe on, that will save you time. I chose to attach the turbo inlet coupler to the crossover first and then put it onto the inlet and tighten. There isn't much room to work but it's not that bad. Knowing your socket size before reaching down there makes it easier. Other than that, it's all super easy, no issues at all.

RESULTS - ???
As you can see from the pics below, where I compare the stocker vs. Ramair, the pipe is wider and has better flow undoubtedly. So in theory more cooling ability and power. Intake air temps did drop about 1-2 degrees compared to before install. I did a datalog before install, in a few days I'll do an "after" log and compare the two and report. According to Jason's intake comparison, the crossover gave the greatest gains of any intake mods, 20tq and 4hp. I'll see how the Vdyno compares to this on my car. Of course we have different setups but still it will be nice to see the results. I will say that the butt dyno felt a bit more torque, but this might be placebo and/or happiness over my newly installed part, you know how that is. Heck though, if it really does add 4hp and 20tq it's totally worth the money. I'll post the results when I get logs after a few days. I take temps and weight and barometric pressure seriously when I V-dyno. But it's still only V-dyno...so there's really no way to prove anything here. But it helps and it's fun.

SOUND - ****
Installing the crossover made a minor but nice sound change. There is more intake noise, but it's not the whooshy whishy type - instead it's the lower end bassy side of the intake noise, the rumble. Sort of like you can hear the engine just a bit more, but the growly part of the engine, not the breathing part. If that makes sense.

OK more datalog results/thoughts to come later, for now here are some pics:








Do you think it’s reasonable to got the pipe in without taking the cowl off? Looks like its about 50/50 on the instructions for intake kits that replace the crossover whether the cowl is removed or not.
 


Bluedrank

Active member
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Winter Park
#10
Do you think it’s reasonable to got the pipe in without taking the cowl off? Looks like its about 50/50 on the instructions for intake kits that replace the crossover whether the cowl is removed or not.
It's easily doable, I've taken mine on and off numerous times since I had a first-release model that had fitment issues. You'll very likely scratch it up though just a bit if you do it without removing the cowl.
 


DangerMouse

Senior Member
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#11
I too just removed my cpe intake and will be installing the ramair with map intake. The cpe is well made but it has some fitment issues that were bothering me.

I am surprised to hear you say the cpe was loud, I found it very quiet.
 


OP
jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #12
Do you think it’s reasonable to got the pipe in without taking the cowl off? Looks like its about 50/50 on the instructions for intake kits that replace the crossover whether the cowl is removed or not.
It's doable but it's way easier with it off. The cowl is very easy to remove. It's just a few bolts. Check out my video on headlight removal/installation without cussing. That's the only part that is really hard if you've never removed all that stuff. Once you get that it's super easy. As I said I did the entire job start to finish in under an hour, and that was taking my time to make sure I had the low-down clamp on the inlet exactly where I wanted it.

If you try to do this without removing the cowl you're going to have minimal room to work, you're going to have a hard time seeing what you're doing, you're going to scrap stuff up. Take your time and make it easy, no need to rush.

I too just removed my cpe intake and will be installing the ramair with map intake. The cpe is well made but it has some fitment issues that were bothering me.

I am surprised to hear you say the cpe was loud, I found it very quiet.
Strange, mine didn't have the fitment issues as such. I will say when I first installed it it did, but later I removed and reinstalled and it didn't. The second time around I took more time and kept all the clamps loose and got it to fit much better before tightening, I think that was the difference.

Mine is loud probably because of my turbo setup, the noise went up significantly when I upgraded.
 


OP
jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #13
UPDATE

Well guys my datalogs are all crap, I used a different road and I don't know what went wrong but all of them were wonky.

[scream]

I was able to compare airflow mass before and after the crossover was installed, and they were about the same. I also compared boost and spool, it was about the same again. Could be that the ECU needs time to adjust to the new pipe. Or it could be that despite the size of any of the plumbing, the restriction is in the inlet and therefore adding diameter/flow to the piping does nothing.
 


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Hela
#14
Thanks man glad it helped.

With all my heart I believe the CP-E is better, providing cooler temps, more air, and therefore more gains. And better MPG; my MPG has suffered since removing it. My reasoning for swapping it out was I was ready for a bit less induction noise. It's not even the CP-E piping that makes the noise, it's the huge (and effective) airbox. The Ramair is super quiet. Not for everyone, but I wanted less noise.



Thanks Pete!

I'm going to respectfully disagree with your info here - no need to go back and forth on it, but I'll simply say that gains of +11hp for the induction pipe and +16hp for the crossover, as you are reporting, are pretty much not possible. An intake does not add 27hp, no way now or in the next life, not happening on this car. Aside from not being possible, the data conflicts with other data that was taken from real dynos, not virtual. For example, Jason at Dizzy did an intake comparison on real dynos, and yes it was a different car and turbo setup, but even so the numbers are comparable. Honest Jason showed us +0.1hp for the induction pipe and +4.0hp for the crossover. That's more realistic.

Not saying you (and I) are not getting gains; I love this new setup and that's why I did this review, to show it off and make Ron money. But saying it's going to add 16hp is total misrepresentation. 4hp, that's more reasonable.

Here's a link to Jason's tests, post #1.
Jason's running a stock turbo with a tiny OEM compressor inlet, not the same as the MRX turbo with a 3" inlet trying to breathe. With the increased boost shown on the graph after the changes, its easy to see why the 27hp would exist besides just airflow. Data is data, also note the colder weather. Very noticeable difference from the stock crossover and induction pipe, one way or another from driving and data.
 


A7xogg

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Hampton roads
#15
UPDATE

Well guys my datalogs are all crap, I used a different road and I don't know what went wrong but all of them were wonky.

[scream]

I was able to compare airflow mass before and after the crossover was installed, and they were about the same. I also compared boost and spool, it was about the same again. Could be that the ECU needs time to adjust to the new pipe. Or it could be that despite the size of any of the plumbing, the restriction is in the inlet and therefore adding diameter/flow to the piping does nothing.
What we're the wgdc before and after? Are you still running the stock air box?
 


OP
jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #16
Jason's running a stock turbo with a tiny OEM compressor inlet, not the same as the MRX turbo with a 3" inlet trying to breathe. With the increased boost shown on the graph after the changes, its easy to see why the 27hp would exist besides just airflow. Data is data, also note the colder weather. Very noticeable difference from the stock crossover and induction pipe, one way or another from driving and data.
I still don't think it adds 27hp. That's more than 100 octane gas would add with a custom tune. If it really added 27hp that would mean you're getting 27hp for ~$220 and it would be marketed as such and sold in a gold case. Talk to any tuner, they're going explain that on our car an intake doesn't do that much even with an MRX or whatever. It does add some, but not this much.

Jeff's experience - I went from 275ish on 93 on my X47 to 300ish by adding race gas concentrate and getting tuned for it. I have both tunes on my Accessport, and dyno'd the car at Topspeed in Atlanta a few months back. For normal days I use the 93 tune; when I'm ready to kill a Mustang I put some race gas in and swap to that tune. The difference in 25hp (dyno proven, remember) is significant. I know what it feels like. It is very noticeable. Now - going from stock intake to an upgraded intake is also something I've done on this car, twice. Yes it feels a bit different. But it does not feel 25, or 27hp different.

My point is, on my car I have dyno proven results of what an extra 25hp feels like. Adding an intake does not feel like what adding 25hp feels like. Maybe 2, or 4, or 7hp, but not 25, and certainly not 27!!!

I could be wrong, just my opinion. I do believe it adds a bit of HP, and some torque too, which makes it worth it.

In any case I'm happy for you and I think we are both enjoying this intake setup. Maybe sometime we can meet and see each other's cars, you're not far from me. If you're ever this way holler at me, lunch on me and we'll swap car stories.

What we're the wgdc before and after? Are you still running the stock air box?
Yes on the box. Around 40-41 on both, no difference.
 


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Hela
#17
Just going on the data and SOTP feel. Either way, give me a shout. You on the Facebook Atlanta ST/RS Club group?
 


OP
jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #18
Just going on the data and SOTP feel. Either way, give me a shout. You on the Facebook Atlanta ST/RS Club group?
Yes I hear you. It always feels good to get new parts on the car. In my case, I have no doubt that I am sometimes being delusional and I equate different sounds or the fun of installing with performance gains. I have a hard time using the virtual Dino program to justify anything because I have taken probably around 200 logs on this car and I’ve seen so much variation, sometimes as much as 15 or 20 hp, between runs when nothing changed on the car and the runs were done back to back. There are so many variables that affect the data logs, it’s just not a realistic measure. I used to think it was, but I’ve done so many, if I look at the data and am honest I conclude that it’s just not reliable.

I’m not on Facebook, I am part of the rebellion. I know you guys have a great Facebook group there and I have been invited to it several times. I would love to make some of the meets but it’s a bit far and I just don’t have the time, too much going on. I am in Atlanta fairly frequently for work or visiting my brother who lives there, but rarely have time to do anything else. But maybe we can hang out sometime, and like I said, I’m only a couple hours east of you, if you’re ever passing through for any reason holler at me.
 


DangerMouse

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#19
It's doable but it's way easier with it off. The cowl is very easy to remove. It's just a few bolts. Check out my video on headlight removal/installation without cussing. That's the only part that is really hard if you've never removed all that stuff. Once you get that it's super easy. As I said I did the entire job start to finish in under an hour, and that was taking my time to make sure I had the low-down clamp on the inlet exactly where I wanted it.

If you try to do this without removing the cowl you're going to have minimal room to work, you're going to have a hard time seeing what you're doing, you're going to scrap stuff up. Take your time and make it easy, no need to rush.



Strange, mine didn't have the fitment issues as such. I will say when I first installed it it did, but later I removed and reinstalled and it didn't. The second time around I took more time and kept all the clamps loose and got it to fit much better before tightening, I think that was the difference.

Mine is loud probably because of my turbo setup, the noise went up significantly when I upgraded.

I was actually surprised when I removed it that the pipes weren't all dinged and scratched up. I got it to fit good but I have a 2016 and the line on the crossover never fit well. I started getting a check engine code, trying to figure out if that was why. So new intake and revert to 2015 evap lines.
 




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