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Fiesta won't start after battery being disconnected

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DangerMouse

DangerMouse

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Thread Starter #22
I don't know what would be disconnected. I've checked everything but you know how that goes. Wish I had someone here to help me go over it.

Yup that was right off of the charger.

I'm hoping it's just bad battery causing things to be shut down.

Heading out to get a new battery.

I'll post the code descriptions when I get back.
 


dmb

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#23
always check your ground. a bad ground will make lots of things turn on because your battery is trying to find a ground, the current will go through your lights, radio, computer, anything that has a ground. you've seen trucks going down the road and his turn signal make all the lights blink? that is a bad ground. good luck wish i was their to help.
 


koozy

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#24
I don't know what would be disconnected. I've checked everything but you know how that goes. Wish I had someone here to help me go over it.

Yup that was right off of the charger.

I'm hoping it's just bad battery causing things to be shut down.

Heading out to get a new battery.

I'll post the code descriptions when I get back.
12.3 is still weak. I wouldn’t be surprised if codes are being generated because of it.


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DangerMouse

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Thread Starter #25
Had the battery checked at autozone and he claims it's a good battery at 12.7 volts and 100% charged. He said it's the keys getting unpaired from the car. Hmm.

Where are the grounds at? Are there any by downpipe? Maybe I damaged something wiggling that son of a bitch out. Or just the ground on the battery?

I'm getting a new battery anyway to try. Not giving this one in yet.
 


koozy

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#26
Had the battery checked at autozone and he claims it's a good battery at 12.7 volts and 100% charged. He said it's the keys getting unpaired from the car. Hmm.

Where are the grounds at? Are there any by downpipe? Maybe I damaged something wiggling that son of a bitch out. Or just the ground on the battery?

I'm getting a new battery anyway to try. Not giving this one in yet.

How are you getting 12.3 and they're getting 12.7, something is not right.

Did you try a new battery in the key fob? I'd try that next, if the new car battery doesn't do it. No grounds by the DP IIRC. A main one is right next to the negative terminal on the chassis. Try scuffing some paint off for better contact.
 


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DangerMouse

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Thread Starter #27
Just put new batteries in both fobs about 2 months ago.

New battery in the car, same results.

Codes:

P0001
Fuel volume regulator control circuit/open

P0118
Engine coolant temperature (ect) sensor 1 circuit high

P0122
Throttle / pedal position sensor A circuit low

P0223
Throttle / Pedal position sensor /switch B circuit high

P06E9
Engine starter performance

P1023
Cylinder head temperature sensor 2 circuit high

P1285
Cylinder head over temperature condition

P1299
Cylinder head over temperature protection active

P26BD
Engine coolant bypass valve "D" control circuit /open
 


koozy

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#28
aside from P06E9 the car is having now, it didn't have the other issues before you installed parts. Something is amiss.
 


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DangerMouse

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Thread Starter #29
aside from P06E9 the car is having now, it didn't have the other issues before you installed parts. Something is amiss.
That would be correct. And everything went pretty smoothly. Nothing that I can think of that sticks out in my mind like oh crap I shouldn't have done that.

Would it be safe to try and remove the accessport and go back to the stock tune?

I don't want to brick anything.
 


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DangerMouse

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Thread Starter #30
Well that's a lot of codes. Have you had the wiring harness disconnected at the ECU?.

Yes I has the ecu and battery box out. Maybe I'll pull it again and check all the pins or maybe something got in there. Hmmm. Thanks.
 


koozy

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#31
That would be correct. And everything went pretty smoothly. Nothing that I can think of that sticks out in my mind like oh crap I shouldn't have done that.

Would it be safe to try and remove the accessport and go back to the stock tune?

I don't want to brick anything.

I wouldn't, too risky. It was working fine before. Doing that would only add to the variables and maybe brick your ECU. If you must, look into doing it off the car on a workbench, inquire COBB tech support as well on how to go about it. Did you by chance remember to connect the sensor or lean on it while installing the DP and break it and not know it? It's right above the oil feed line connection on the head.
 


dmb

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#32
your ground wires at the battery and the body ground by the brake fluid res. take them off and clean both sides of them with a wire brush, they may look clean but clean them any way. just sitting in that mid western cold is enough to leave a bad contact for the electricity to flow through. if it does not work its time to do it anyway. sorry you having hard time bro.
 


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DangerMouse

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Thread Starter #33
SHE'S ALIVE!!!

First thank you to everyone for their repeated help.

I pulled the ecu to check for debris or bent pins and....drum roll.

The bottom plug wasn't clipping into the ecu, it slid right off.

Put it back and slid off again. Wtf!

Pulled the battery box and took the ecu off. Plugged the ecu you and then bolted it to the battery box.

She fired right up. Fans on blast and no throttle.

Shut it off, deleted engine codes.

Fired up and went for a drive. Get home check for codes and no codes!

Let this be a lesson, push pull push on all connections.

My wife was begging me to tow it to ford, luckily I didn't give up.

Thanks again everyone!
 


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DangerMouse

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Thread Starter #36
Now go get a refund for the battery [emoji41]


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Lol my wife said the same thing.

Looks like the stocker is fine, the peep hole must be broken, it's red not green.
 


koozy

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#37
It’s not broken, continue to put it on a trickle charge, it’ll turn green if it's a good battery. I had mine on a 1.5 amp charge for ~2 months before it turned green [biggrin]
Forget what the Autozone guy said, your battery is telling you what it's state is with the sight glass. He was wrong about your key fob!

The Magic Eye that is used in Motorcraft batteries provides 4 stages of indication, they are:
1. Green: battery is charged and the acid level is good.
2. Yellow: Battery is partially dis-charged and the acid level is good. Re-charge the battery.
3. Red: Battery is dis-charged and the acid level is good. Charge the battery.
4. Clear and bright: Acid level is low. Add distilled water if possible. Do not fast charge or jump start the battery.

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neeqness

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#39
Just saw this and was going to chime in but I'm glad that I read it through first and I'm even more glad to see that you have resolved it already. [emoji106]

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