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How To - Fiesta ST Homelink Mirror with Tempurature and Compass Installation

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Thread Starter #21
Already have Auto dimming mirror, dont need remotes for gate or garage, and I dont need a compass. It does look pretty cool, but I will pass on this one. PLUS, converted from USD to ZAR plus shipping and duties, it is a aVERY expensive gadget mod for us.
We never had the auto-dimming feature in the US which was one of the main reasons why I did the mod. Plus the integrated Homelink was very nice.[biggrin]
 


westcoaST

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#22
Quick note, you are actually pulling fuses F11 and F2 in your photo. I'm installing my kit right now. Also, looking at the Ford instructions, they say to use a low amp rated fuse with power only when ignition is on for auto dimming (Operation 23) and a low amp rated fuse with full time power for homelink(Operation 28)

I don't see the need to use the 20 amp fuse for the windshield wiper (F11). I would use lower amp wires. I'm already using F11 for my escort radar detector, so I'm using F15 for autodimming (on when ignition is on) and F16 for the homelink (on all the time). On my kit (4L3Z-17700-B) the Black wire with the white stripe is the autodimming wire, the Black wire is the homelink wire.

F15 is the wiper switch and F16 is the Electric exterior mirrors and power windows.

There is a writeup on this method (useful when you have both a autodimming/homelink and a radar detector) here
http://www.fiestast.org/forum/fiesta-st-electronics/897-gentex-mirror-install-homelink.html

I am going to monitor temps inside of my cabin, since the FiST already has an external temp monitor and the air conditioner only has a set temp.

One last thing. There is a white clamp on the plug that goes into the mirror. You need to pull up on this clamp, then insert the two temp wires, then push the white clamp back down.

Also on my plug there were two wings on either side of the locking tab. These needed to be clipped with a wire cutter before the plug would fit into the mirror. Don't know why this was not in my instructions, but it would not fit without cutting those wings. See instructions, opn. 14. This shows the plug with the wings.
 


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#23
Awesome How To, I actually teased my sales man about not going through with the purchase since it didn't have a garage door opener integrated to the car and having to carry around one in the visor... Obviously I wanted this car really bad. Thanks for sharing.

Quick note, you are actually pulling fuses F11 and F2 in your photo. I'm installing my kit right now. Also, looking at the Ford instructions, they say to use a low amp rated fuse with power only when ignition is on for auto dimming (Operation 23) and a low amp rated fuse with full time power for homelink(Operation 28)

I don't see the need to use the 20 amp fuse for the windshield wiper (F11). I would use lower amp wires. I'm already using F11 for my escort radar detector, so I'm using F15 for autodimming (on when ignition is on) and F16 for the homelink (on all the time). On my kit (4L3Z-17700-B) the Black wire with the white stripe is the autodimming wire, the Black wire is the homelink wire.

F15 is the wiper switch and F16 is the Electric exterior mirrors and power windows.

There is a writeup on this method (useful when you have both a autodimming/homelink and a radar detector) here
http://www.fiestast.org/forum/fiesta-st-electronics/897-gentex-mirror-install-homelink.html

I am going to monitor temps inside of my cabin, since the FiST already has an external temp monitor and the air conditioner only has a set temp.

One last thing. There is a white clamp on the plug that goes into the mirror. You need to pull up on this clamp, then insert the two temp wires, then push the white clamp back down.

Also on my plug there were two wings on either side of the locking tab. These needed to be clipped with a wire cutter before the plug would fit into the mirror. Don't know why this was not in my instructions, but it would not fit without cutting those wings. See instructions, opn. 14. This shows the plug with the wings.
westcoaST,

Any idea on where you plan on placing the temperature sensor to monitor the cabin temperature? I like the idea and I plan on doing the same (after reading your post).

Thanks and cheers!
 


westcoaST

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#24
On the right side of the glove box, there is a bit of structural frame for the door pillar. I clipped the sensor to this surface. Also I cut down all of the wires and routed them around the fusebox. I don't like excess wiring, so I cut down the sensor wire, butt spliced the wires, soldered them and covered them with shrink tubing.

I decided to wait until it cools down before I calibrate the compass, program the homelink, and then put the glovebox back. I also used the length of plastic that comes with the kit that hides the wiring coming out of the headliner, and goes over to the mirror. I'll take pics later.
 


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#25
On the right side of the glove box, there is a bit of structural frame for the door pillar. I clipped the sensor to this surface. Also I cut down all of the wires and routed them around the fusebox. I don't like excess wiring, so I cut down the sensor wire, butt spliced the wires, soldered them and covered them with shrink tubing.

I decided to wait until it cools down before I calibrate the compass, program the homelink, and then put the glovebox back. I also used the length of plastic that comes with the kit that hides the wiring coming out of the headliner, and goes over to the mirror. I'll take pics later.
Coolness, thanks!
 


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Thread Starter #26
Thanks for the update westcoaST, I might have written down the wrong Fuse number. Regardless I did thought of mounting the sensor inside the cabin at one point because it would have been easier. But figured I wanted to see how accurate the numbers where. Seems they are both very close and sometimes different by 1 or 2 degrees.
 


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#28

RAAMaudio

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#29
Anybody look into a mirror like this with back up camera monitor built in?

It could be a great way to have a back up camera for less than the price of the Nav-TV and add Home Link as well as autodimming as well as temp gauge(I like the idea to use it for the inside of the car)

I have a mirror unit on my dually because I was able to get a loaded truck without factory NAV as installing a better system than it would of been and the mirror monitor is really not that bad to use.

Great mod and writeup and follow up as well:)
 


westcoaST

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#30
I was only able to find either homelink or the backup camera. Since I figured that I would eventually be going with NAV-TV, I installed mine with homelink. I think I'd rather have the larger screen showing whats behind me, anyway. I talked to NAV-TV last year and they told me that their system would work. I'm glad Dave proved this correct. I plan on adding the NAV-TV setup this year, as soon as I finish my mustang build. I still have several projects to finish on my ST.
 


RAAMaudio

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#31
Thanks, I have not looked into the mirror with all those options so it might not be available unless aftermarket.

I had been in contact with all manf of integration devices last spring, no joy, now making a new round and found out for sure one is not going to do anything for our cars though they do many Fords. I really do not comprehend why Ford does somethings they do and leave their customers left out....

I will make more calls to the rest of those companies and I am going to start calling higher up the chain at Ford.

Thanks again,
Rick
 


westcoaST

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#32
I stand corrected. There is a rear view mirror with homelink AND rear camera display. But it costs $701.32 and does NOT include a camera. Not much difference between this and the NAV-TV costs, which does include a camera.

http://www.amazon.com/Gentex-45ADRCDMHCG-Auto-Dimming-Display-HomeLink/dp/B00C9Z40OQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420651042&sr=1-3&keywords=auto-dimming+mirror+with+homelink+and+rear+camera

There are less expensive versions that only have auto dimming mirrors and rear view camera display.
 


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#34
I got a quick one here

If i connect a mirror(frame less gentex with home link) on the green and purple wires from the dome light assembly, it should work with the battery saver function and make it a painless install right?

 


westcoaST

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#35
You need a power source for the homelink that is not controlled by ignition (always on) and one that is ignition controlled for the autodimming mirror, if you are using the autodimming and homelink. If the plug wire you show has a hot lead that is always on, then you are good to go, although you are wiring without a fuse, so at least put an inline fuse.

Check my build thread for how I installed my rear view mirror. Running the wires to the fuse box is really easy. You will need two add-a-fuse connectors. I always solder my connections and cover them with heat shrink.
 


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#36
What fuse rating did you use ?

I'll try to tap right at the lights since its "always" on when you're in the car but turn off after a set time

I'll put both switched and always ON on the same wire since I don't need to use the garage opener when I'm not in the car

When I receive the mirror I will give you feedbacks ;)
 


westcoaST

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#37
Based on my photos of the fuse block, I used Fuses 13 and 16. I also have an Escort radar detector wired to Fuse 11, so you could use F11 for your switched (on when ignition is on) lead. Check the owners manual for the fuse ratings. I'm wiring my Zeitronix ethanol gauge up this weekend, so I'll be using another switched line for that.
 


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#38
I installed the mirror today, but I have yet to receive my add-a-fuse

All the mechanical part is done, the hardest was removing the OE mirror as I did not know how much force to use

Next week will be the tapping in the fuse box

item #


Content


Installed, in upside down position as I wanted to match the OE shape and did not want to see the buttons
 


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Thread Starter #39
Looking good. The mirror comes out easier if you jiggle it out.



I installed the mirror today, but I have yet to receive my add-a-fuse

All the mechanical part is done, the hardest was removing the OE mirror as I did not know how much force to use

Next week will be the tapping in the fuse box

item #


Content


Installed, in upside down position as I wanted to match the OE shape and did not want to see the buttons
 


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