• Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features

    Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!


ARP Wheel Studs

D1JL

7000 Post Club
Staff Member
Premium Account
U.S. Navy Veteran
Messages
7,822
Likes
4,060
Location
SFV, So.Cal.
#1
For the racers out there.
On the strip, auto cross, or road race.
We have all broken wheel studs.

I just got off the phone with ARP and have the answer.

The FiST OE stud is 12 mm x 1.5 thread x 1.75" long, with a .505" knurl.
The FiST hubs have a .500 hole.

ARP has two stud sizes available, 2.75" and 3.25" long both have a .509" knurl.
This would mean we need to increase the holes in our hubs by .004" this would be very easy.


ARP #100-7708 (2.75")

ARP #100-7713 (3.25")



This one is for you Rod.




Dave
 


rodmoe

5000 Post Club
Messages
5,810
Likes
580
Location
wausau
#2
Sweet :) more money after Racecar parts ..
Thanks for the legwork Dave
 


RAAMaudio

5000 Post Club
Messages
5,268
Likes
925
Location
Carson City
#3
.oo4 will press right in I am sure, just line up the splines the same as the old studs, press them on in.

No press? An impact gun, washers, lug nut, works like a charm.
 


OP
D1JL

D1JL

7000 Post Club
Staff Member
Premium Account
U.S. Navy Veteran
Messages
7,822
Likes
4,060
Location
SFV, So.Cal.
Thread Starter #4
ARP said hole should be only .005" smaller than knurl.
I would recommend the press as an impact might cause the stud to twist before it gets started.
Remember ARP bolts are stronger and therefore the knurls would be tighter.

I already have a hub to work with and I am picking one pack of studs tomorrow.

So we will see.


Dave
 


RAAMaudio

5000 Post Club
Messages
5,268
Likes
925
Location
Carson City
#5
I should of wrote that differently, it seems it should be fine but I am not ARP so I must default to them:)

And thanks for looking this up:)
 


OP
D1JL

D1JL

7000 Post Club
Staff Member
Premium Account
U.S. Navy Veteran
Messages
7,822
Likes
4,060
Location
SFV, So.Cal.
Thread Starter #6
I should of wrote that differently, it seems it should be fine but I am not ARP so I must default to them:)

And thanks for looking this up:)
I do agree with you that only .004" difference should be close enough.
I was just quoting ARP for reference.
And the ARP guy did emphasize more than once that the hole should only be .005" smaller than the knurl.
I just didn't want anyone else to have a problem and say we provided the wrong directions.



Dave
 


OP
D1JL

D1JL

7000 Post Club
Staff Member
Premium Account
U.S. Navy Veteran
Messages
7,822
Likes
4,060
Location
SFV, So.Cal.
Thread Starter #7
Has anyone installed these yet?




Dave
 


RAAMaudio

5000 Post Club
Messages
5,268
Likes
925
Location
Carson City
#8
I have had mine in for some time on the rear but still only have 1400 miles on the car, now the fronts are in and I have around 300 street miles and 200 track miles on them, they pressed in easily enough and no problems but I do have rebored hubs and the holes may of been drilled a bit different than stock ones.

I pressed in the rears but ran short on time to pull the front knuckles off again so tapped out the stock studs from the new holes (4x100 bolt pattern change) and pulled the new studs in with washers, longer than stock lug nuts and an air gun but it was pretty easy to do so I do not think it over stressed them. I pounded over the curbs repeatedly and was on the rumble strips a bit and no problems with the studs so pretty sure I a safe:)

I also had to put in some spacers up front as the gap from rim to strut was pretty close and there was enough flex in the bearings, knuckles, hubs, wheels, whatever, to just barely rub. I did not have the thin spacers I had made specifically if needed, left them in a box of spares I forgot to pack but I had some 5mm ones that were not hub centric so the studs took all the abuse and are fine, I will be hub centric from now on so even better.

In my not so stock setup they were highly stressed and came through just fine, on stock hubs, less than 225 DOT slicks, not jumping curbs hundreds of times, not on rumble strips at speed a few more times than I normally find myself on them, I was driving the car really hard to shack out any issues, they will be fine and I bet they press or pull in easily enough.

You can try the pull in method so you do not have to take the car apart, if you have an issue not a big deal as get 4 spares when ordering.
 


OP
D1JL

D1JL

7000 Post Club
Staff Member
Premium Account
U.S. Navy Veteran
Messages
7,822
Likes
4,060
Location
SFV, So.Cal.
Thread Starter #9
Thanks,
I just got mine as they were on back order.
I wanted to know if there was issues with putting the longer studs in without removing the hubs.




Dave
 


RAAMaudio

5000 Post Club
Messages
5,268
Likes
925
Location
Carson City
#10
I used a 5 lb dead blow hammer with lug nuts on the studs and they drove out pretty easily.

This was with a 4x100 bolt pattern so I had to use one of my disk grinders with a flap disk and remove a little spot on the knuckle, with 4x108mm it probably will just pop out and the new ones in with no other mods.
 


OP
D1JL

D1JL

7000 Post Club
Staff Member
Premium Account
U.S. Navy Veteran
Messages
7,822
Likes
4,060
Location
SFV, So.Cal.
Thread Starter #11
On my weekend list.



Dave
 


Similar threads



Top