On a moderately lowered car there will be no need to adjust it, the key is the ball joint at the bottom of the strut on the front control arm needs to be lower than the inner pickup point, the one connected to the forward end of the arm at the subframe.
There are several main ways of adjusting it, the easiest is using extended ball joints to replace the stock ones, they will normally have spacers so that it can be set according to how low the car is.
Another way is modified steering knuckles, much more difficult, normally not a DIY solution.
A third way is to modify the inboard pickup point but altering the subframe, normally not a DIY solution as well.
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When either of these are done we also need to correspondingly move the rear inboard location up to maintain the correct alignment as it will reduce the castor angle. There are adjustable parts made for that so not as hard to deal with.
And bump steer, which is the ball joint on the tie rod end, at the knuckle, needs to be moved down so the tie rod runs perpendicular to the control arm or steering rack, usually the rack.
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If parts are available the extended ball joints and tie rod ends are far easier to do.
BUT, you need a very good alignment done, the average shop, the vast majority actually, will only look things up in a book that has very broad specs they can go with and it will not end up anywhere near being optimized. One has to pay a race oriented shop a fair higher cost as it takes considerably more time or invest in some alignment tools, you can DIY a very accurate performance alignment with just a few tools and taking time to learn to do it right. I have done my own for decades.